Maynard Model. I

[Jud96]

Hello guys. Recently I've really been interested in the Model. I Maynard. I'm looking to see what you Model. I Maynard shooters prefer when it comes to barrel length, caliber, and your preferred load. I'd also like to understand why you prefer your caliber of choice and why you use either the 20" or 26" barrel. Lastly I'd like to ask if anyone knows the diameter of the peep in the Model. I's tang sight. Thanks.

[Rob FreemanWBR]

Jud,

I have an original Mod 1, w/repo 26 inch barrel (the original barrel is kept in a safe place).

It shoots a 360 grain bullet, cast from a 3 cavity mold made & sold by Mike Oziak. I prefer this sized round as it does very well at both 50 & 100, and given it's size/weight it isn't affected as much due to cross winds as compared to smaller, lighter projectile variants (it's also very effective when impacting on breakable targets).

Rounds are sized via Lubrisizer to .518 Cal

Reduced capacity brass, holding a 23gr 3F Goex charge.

She performs VERY well, thanks in part to the large sight radius that the M-1 offers via it's tang sight.

If/when you get your hands on one, you won't regret it - esp. after you get it all worked up/fine-tuned!!

Hope this info is of some use! Unfortunately I can't help on the diamater of the rear tang's peep (I've never bothered to measure it).

[Jud96]

Jud,

I have an original Mod 1, w/repo 26 inch barrel (the original barrel is kept in a safe place).

It shoots a 360 grain bullet, cast from a 3 cavity mold made & sold by Mike Oziak. I prefer this sized round as it does very well at both 50 & 100, and given it's size/weight it isn't affected as much due to cross winds as compared to smaller, lighter projectile variants (it's also very effective when impacting on breakable targets).

Rounds are sized via Lubrisizer to .518 Cal

Reduced capacity brass, holding a 23gr 3F Goex charge.

She performs VERY well, thanks in part to the large sight radius that the M-1 offers via it's tang sight.

If/when you get your hands on one, you won't regret it - esp. after you get it all worked up/fine-tuned!!

Hope this info is of some use! Unfortunately I can't help on the diamater of the rear tang's peep (I've never bothered to measure it).

Thanks! Great info Rob! May I ask, have you ever experimented with the .36cal chambering? Also who makes your repro .50cal barrel? Thanks

[RaiderANV]

I had both .50&.36 repro barrels made by Larry Romano AND FITTED to my gun. Both were capable of shooting one hole groups. Shot 3f Goes 21 grains in the .50 cal and 17 in the .36.
A lot of people have a hard time shooting the Maynard as it's so lite. No wood makes for a hot barrel so a leather glove in warm weather or shooting with a team that goes full time every event. The .36 is a heavier barrel which helps most people and it takes a lot longer to get hot on you. .36 has its problems in strong cross winds but learn yer gun and Kentucky windage works great.
Both barrels were 26" for the longer site radius.

SHOULDER BOTH AND GO WITH WHAT FITS YOU BEST. Then learn to shoot it.

John Bly also makew awesome barrels.

As to the rear peep site......make it as small as you want then open it up a tad more if you can't see.

[Rob FreemanWBR]

Jud,

I've never experimented with the .36 cal barrel. I have one, but I've heard from reliable sources that the smaller .36 round sometimes only punches a hole in breakable targets, such as clay pigeons. Given that lighter weight projectiles can be more susceptible to cross winds, AND at times they only "wound" breakable targets, I've only used .50 cal rounds with great results.

Unfortunately I can't be of any help in directing you to any makers of repo .50 cal barrels. I inherited My M-1 and its associated barrels from my late father.

I'm certain that other fellow skirmishers can help out & point you in the right direction, esp. by responding to your thread!

[Jud96]

Thanks a lot guys! Raider, how many grains can you fit into a full capacity .36cal casing? Also, are the .50cal and .36cal cases the same length?
Thanks for the additional help Rob! I have heard about the .36 punching through clays before but I'd have to see it first before I believe it haha!

[RaiderANV]

.36 is longer then .50 and I've never filled the cases to see what it'll hold.
I have on a rare occasion seen a .36 punch a hole but only on the pigeon board. With birds turned orange side out you'll see it.
.36 uses a lot less power and lead and holds better for many that like the weight.
I always shot a .50 just because I had so many in that caliber and 100's of cases.

[Jud96]

.36 is longer then .50 and I've never filled the cases to see what it'll hold.
I have on a rare occasion seen a .36 punch a hole but only on the pigeon board. With birds turned orange side out you'll see it.
.36 uses a lot less power and lead and holds better for many that like the weight.
I always shot a .50 just because I had so many in that caliber and 100's of cases.

The reason I asked about the powder capacity of the .36 casing is because I would think a light .36cal bullet with a stout charge, say 35grs, would be high velocity and should zip right through any wind at 100yds. And I understand why you shoot a .50cal haha, can't let a few hundred casings just sit around!

[Mike McDaniel]

IIRC, Larry Brockmiller favors the .36, for precisely that reason.

I'm currently shooting a .50 caliber Romano, but have picked up a used .36 to experiment with. The .50 definitely likes a heavy charge - I'm using 35 grains of Goex 3F. But it's remarkably accurate.

[Jud96]

IIRC, Larry Brockmiller favors the .36, for precisely that reason.

I'm currently shooting a .50 caliber Romano, but have picked up a used .36 to experiment with. The .50 definitely likes a heavy charge - I'm using 35 grains of Goex 3F. But it's remarkably accurate.

Thanks for the info Mike. Hope to hear how your experiments turn out with the .36cal. Thanks.