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Thread: Bore brushes???

  1. #1
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    Bore brushes???

    I've always ran wet and then dry patches in my pieces (H&P smoothbore, Mod 1 Maynard and Rogers & Spencer revolver) after an event, but have been considering using a bore brush to remove a good amount of any fouling before patching.

    Is there a difference, or distinct advantage(s) between using a nylon bristled brush vs. bronze - in removing fouling? What about any damage to the bore if a bronze brush is used (used improperly??)?

    Any and all advice/opinions are welcome in this regard!

    Thx in advance for any contributor's time/consideration.
    Semper Fi,
    RDF

    The quality of a person's life is in direct proportion to their commitment to excellence, regardless of their chosen field of endeavor. - Vince Lombardi

  2. #2
    le piaf is offline
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    bronze brushes never damage an iron bore , you can use them against hard fouling and leaded grooves and patches after , for soft fouling ,nylon brush and or patchs can do the job

  3. #3
    ian45662 is online now
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    I could be wrong and I am not sure but do you think a nylon brusg will do the job? I am not speaking from experience but I dont think it would get those stubborn fowling areas. I use stainless for everything but maybe I should switch to bronz. I have not noticed any ill effect but the only origional bore I clean is my H&P.

  4. #4
    Ron/The Old Reb Guest
    I would not use stainless it's harder and can scratch. I have used both nylon and bronze over the years with good results,but I referrer the bronze. When using bore cleaner that remove lead and copper wash you have to use a nylon brush.

  5. #5
    Charlie Hahn is offline
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    Regarding the use of brushes. The stainless and bronze brushes should be used with caution. The wire size is not always the same from maker to maker, and both can cut the bore in two ways.

    First when you reach the breech plug and change the direct the wires are pressed into the bore and actually peen dimples into the barrel. This will make this area have a frosted appearance. As it is in the powder/bullet seat area, it has limited influence on performance.

    The stiffer or larger diameter wire will take the shoulder off the rifling land and will scratch the barrel full length. Barrels made of the friendly to machine material that are being used in new barrels and relines should avoid the use of brushes with the very stiff wire in stainless or hard bronze. I have seen several guns that have had the rifling brushed to the point the bullet trips and a reline is needed.

    Water soluble oil and a tight fitting patch are better on the line with a solvent/oil after the match allowed to soak for any leading, a brush in these guns should be considered last IMOP.

    Charlie Hahn

  6. #6
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    The brush should always be softer than the barrel material. Consequently, you should only use Stainless brushes in barrels that are chrome lined. You'd be pretty hard pressed to find any of our guns with SS barrels, so nix the SS brushes...

    -Mike
    Mike 'Bootsie' Bodner
    Palmetto Sharpshooter's, Commander
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  7. #7
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    Every time I've brushed (I use a bronze brush) after patches look clean, subsequent patches come out dirty again, so I guess the brush works.

    Any abrasive, even one softer than the thing being abraded, will cause erosion over time.

    Steve

  8. #8
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    I've discovered that regardless of the gun type (Black powder, smokeless) that if you wire brush a clean barrel then swap with a dry patch, it will come out 'dirty'.

    I think it has more to do with reactions betweeen the metals, but I'd be interested in hearing from someone more knowledgable...

    -Mike
    Mike 'Bootsie' Bodner
    Palmetto Sharpshooter's, Commander
    9996V

  9. #9
    le piaf is offline
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    Mike,
    Perhaps the colour come from the brush eroded by the groove . If you try ed's red cleaner even with a clean barrel you get dirty paches.
    With Black powder , and the fear of the corrosion , it is not easy to say " now , the bore is clean and i can store my rifle ", I, always ask to myself "a last patch again will be perhaps useful"

  10. #10
    hp gregory is offline
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    rob i have always cringed when i see people run bore brushes down any of the skirmish guns and then hold the gun muzzle down and start to turn the brush. i feel all this does is pack the fowling into the breech and do harm to the barrel. while some of the fouling will come out i think a lot more stays. what i like to do is use the solution of murffies oil soap, alcohol and peroxide. this solution melts the fowling easily and drys rather quickly. a friend of mine whom is a dentist showed us how dental sponges make a wonderful patch. they are cotton and are folded into a 2x2 inch square. when you unfold them they are close to 4 inches. they have lots of little wholes in them so that the fouling goes into those holes and is absorbed. these patches can actulay be used several times by turning them over or refolding them. the good news is that they are on line for 65 bucks for 5k. its the best kept secret in the nssa. if you use the solution along with these patches cleaning a smoothbore or any other gun is a breeze. remember all you have going for you with a smoothy is the ammo and the condition of the bore. if you want it to shoot the same then keeping a decent bore is a must. a gentle cleaning that melts the fouling and removes it is what i have found works best in our guns.

    hp

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