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Thread: How difficult to build Richmond Carbine?

  1. #1
    B-Davis is offline
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    How difficult to build Richmond Carbine?

    I recently did a trade with another member of the forum here, and I am recieving some Armi-sport C.S. Richmond rifle parts. With that being said, I am considering building a C.S. Richmond carbine.
    Before I even think about going through this whole process, I have some questions, and any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated!

    I believe I am am getting a lock plate, butt plate, nose cap, and bands.

    1. Will these parts even work with\for the carbine?
    2. Looking online, I see that S&S sells a stock for the Richmond carbine, does anyone have any expirence with these stocks?
    3. Also online, I believe it is Chippa (?) firearms? Is this the importer for Armi-Sport? Can parts be bought directly from them?
    4. What are the lock internals? Are they 1855 or 61 parts?
    5. What is the trigger bow and guard assembly?
    6. Does anybody make the sling swivel that screws directly into the stock at the rear of the tigger guard?

    I have "tinkered" and learned through trial and error how to fix and repair minor problems over the years, I just have never fully assembled a carbine or rifle before. Also, where can I find the spec. sheets for the Richmond carbine? I know many of you have years of expirence on repairing and buildling these types of carbines and any suggestions or advice would be GREATLY appreciated!

    I also have email John Holland on the subject, and I am sure he will give me much info., I just want to throw this out here to the general forum for ANY info. I can get.

    Bryan Davis
    Last edited by B-Davis; 04-23-2013 at 09:15 AM. Reason: can't spell!

  2. #2
    GPM is offline
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    I think the dimensions on Italian made replicas are off enough to create a major headache on what would be your first build. A friend made a 55 musket with an armi sport barrel and discovered the bolster does not protrude as much as an original. It may require the use of an armi sport lock to get everything to line up. For a first build I would highly recommend using American made , or original parts. It makes life easier on the builder.
    Last edited by GPM; 04-23-2013 at 07:10 PM.

  3. #3
    Fauch125 is offline
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    One suggestion would be to get all Armisport parts if available, stock, lock internals, screws. Then, if you would like a carbine, cut the full length stock down to carbine length per SAC sheet specs. You would then just need a carbine nose cap and rear sling swivel. Both are available from Nick at Gator Den. Barrel can be cut down, and a carbine front sight dovetailed on. Spec sheets are available from the SAC at the Nationals, or by e-mail.
    Shoot the brave officers, and the cowards will run away and take the men with them. -Jackson

  4. #4
    B-Davis is offline
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    I am hoping that I can get all Armisport parts for the project. That is something I will have to ask S&S about thier stock. As for the barrel, I am considering getting a Whitacre barrel for it.
    Thank you for the advice of going to the Gator Den for the third sling swivel. As for the nose cap, I have read on some forums that you can compress the nose cap (such as a leather faced vise) to reshape the cap and fit it. Is this feasible, or should a new one be purchased?

  5. #5
    Fauch125 is offline
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    If its a brass nose cap, you should be able to make it work. The barrel will be thicker where you're cutting it back. Careful use of dremel, sanding, and/or lightly tapping with a non marring hammer should make it work. I was thinking of the long 1855/fayetteville rifle nose cap. Also check lodgewood.com for parts if you can't find them at S&S. There's also VTI gunparts in CT, might be able to get armisport parts. Also Taylor and Company, just off the top of my head.
    Shoot the brave officers, and the cowards will run away and take the men with them. -Jackson

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    I was lucky enough to have access to a sporterised 61 a few years back. The very first ones made had a regulation '61 lock plate and US marked steel buttplate. I had to buy the stock svivel and nosecap. Hoyt reline, Whitacre front site and good to go. Lockplate must date 61.

  7. #7
    Southron Sr. is offline
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    The "Accidental" Richmond Carbine!!!

    About 30 odd years ago I got a Yeck made Richmond Rifle-Musket in a rather involved trade. After some "Soul Seraching" I decided to cut it back to a Two Band Richmond [What some Skirmishers call a "Richmond Mounted Infantry Rifle."]

    So, I sawed the 39 inch long barrel back to 33 inches and 'Lo and Behold!!!!'

    The bore was so "off center" at 33 inches that the wall thickness at the bottom of the bore was what I called back then "Paper Thin."

    Obviously, when the outside of the barrel was being turned down on the lathe, the barrel had flexed and that accounted for the off center bore.

    Needless to say, I was heart sick.

    So, I cut the barrel back to 24 inches and the bore was centered again!!!!

    The Late Colonel Henderson in Savannah had an original Richmond Carbine, so I carried by sawed off barrel and the rest of the gun down to his house one evening. He pulled out his original Richmond Carbine, which I measured and cut my stock back to match that of the Colonel's original.

    Oh yes, the brass nose cap can easily be made to fit the large O.D. of the Carbine Barrel. Just place the nose cap on the barrel where it will be when the stock is finished and the gun assembled. Take a rubber mallet and whack the brass nose cap on the naked barrel and the nose cap's sides will easily expand to fit perfectly!!!

    Just follow the SAC guidelines and measurements and you will be fine!

  8. #8
    John Holland is offline Moderator
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    Clarification on building the 1861 Springfield as altered to a Richmond Carbine: The SAC will now accept any Model 1861 lock plate, regardless of date or contact marks.

  9. #9
    Jack C., 69th NY is offline
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    I have gone down both paths with building a Richmond carbine. First one was made from cutting down a full length Italian reproduction. End result was a fine shooting carbine BUT the barrel was so heavy as was the stock. It just did not feel or look right to me. It was clumsy and unappealing.
    Then I got my hands on a "sporterized", cut down original musket/shotgun. With a bit of tweeking, adding wood to forearm and shortening the barrel a bit & some Bobby Hoyt relining, I ended up with a much lighter carbine that was identical to an original. The original parts gave it a much better feel. Appearance was 1000% better than the repro.
    My 2 cents worth.
    Jack Conway
    69th NY

  10. #10
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    CS Richmond

    Im building one as we speak. I purchased a barrel and stock from Bobby Hoyt, he says he's getting away from building whole guns so I got a good deal. The lock is an Armi Sport which is different from the originals but it just fit. The other parts came from S&S except for the brass nose cap, everyone seems to be out of stock on those so I ended up reworking a CVA kentucky nose cap into one. Its a fun project...not difficult at all. Go for it.

    Scott.

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