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Thread: Pedersoli 1859 Sharps Rifle loads

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    Pedersoli 1859 Sharps Rifle loads

    If you have one, can you tell me what your loads are? Bullet? Hard or Soft lead? Powder charge? 3f or 2f? Charlie's tubes or paper tubes? Lube? Thank you.
    Brad

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    johnefelts is offline
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    Sharps load

    soft lead 525 grain with charlies tubes holding 60 grains of swiss 2f.

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    P.Altland is offline
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    NEI 540-490 with 35 gr 3f Goex loose powder and MCM using Shell Tubes.
    Paul Altland
    21st Va. Md Guard Co. B

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    I've never used Sharps rifle in N-SSA or our 50 & 100 yard distances. That said I use a custom mold of which I can't recall who made it but it's 545 grains & I use 58 grains of 3F Goex or 50 of 3F Swiss and it's hit whatever it's aimed at from 400-600 yards. Lube is 40-60 Crisco/beeeswax. And it's been a safe queen since 1993
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    gemmer is offline
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnefelts View Post
    soft lead 525 grain with charlies tubes holding 60 grains of swiss 2f.
    How do you get 60 gr. in Charlie's tube, assuming it's 1 1/4"? Do you fill it to the top without inserting the ringtail base?

    Duane

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    Charlie Hahn is offline
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    I would suggest a lower charge for this.

    Goex 2f 40 grains

    Swiss 2f 38 grains

    No filler if using my tubes, but a card wad to hold the powder aft

    I adjust chamber lengths for those who feel the need for powder, but for our game I think you will find this enough.

    I have shot through a deer at 120 yards with this load as well.

    More information on my web sight, charliestubes.com

    All the best,

    Charlie Hahn

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    johnefelts is offline
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    60 grains

    Thanks Charlie I didnt see his question, Duane I had Charlie set me up to shoot 60grains using the 1.5"tubes and man is she a shooter, 10"steel plate at 500 yards all day long. Love the way it shoots Charlie.

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    Thanks Fella's, I'm gonna see what happens.

  9. #9
    bobanderson is offline
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    Pedersoil Sharps

    I swapped for an 1859 carbine last year and spent the winter fine tuning it into my skirmish gun. After playing with ringtails, christmas trees and the like, I went back to basics. Read the Dave France articles about shooting the percussion Sharps, especially with regard to the bullet. I took the blueprint in the article and gave it to the Moose. He produced his "France Sharps" mould which has performed great for me. I took a 100 yard carbine silver medal at the Fall Nationals. It has done really well in regional individual matches as well.

    Honestly, I was very put off with the prospect of nitrating paper. When I want to go load for a shoot, I'd rather do it all at once, if possible. Adding an extra step to nitrate paper and wind tubes made that job tedious. (Somewhere out there is a guy with a great shooting Garret Sharps carbine that I sold because of this line of thinking.) Charlie's tubes are a great invention, but I don't like having lube exposed to dirt and the like in shooting pouches, carts, etc. Also, the Dave France designed bullet does not have a tail that the tube can be attached to. I hear Moose is making another version of that bullet with a ringtail, but I hope he remembers that adding that extra weight will change the Greenhill numbers for that bullet. He needs to reduce the overall length of the bullet profile if he adds the tail to keep the weight the same.

    The Sharps is the only breechloader I've seen that doesn't require you to remove something from the chamber before you reload. That saved motion makes it inherently faster on the line to me. Look at the plastic shell and tube loaders sold by Yore Supply. The link is www.yoresupply.com. These are clean in the pouch, easy to load and lightning fast on the line. I load just as fast, or possibly faster than paper shooters. With this system, I am also seating the bullet into the rifling with much more consistency that you can with a paper cartridge.

    The last thing that works very well for me is my lube. I got it years ago from a 1000 yard BPCR shooter to solve fouling problems I had in long shot strings with a 45-90 in an 800, 900 and 1000 match. The last 4" of my 34" barrel was like a plowed field and the accuracy fell right off the chart. Switching to "N" lube has solved all of that. I get no hard fouling, very little if any leading and great accuracy. The recipe is...

    8oz, by liquid measure of beeswax (the natural stuff with bee parts inside is the best - just kidding)
    8oz, by liquid measure of pure neatsfoot oil. Not the compound which has additives, but the pure stuff. You can get it at tack shops and online.
    1 bar of Neutrogena soap. It's sold to people with skin problems at most pharmacies, Meijer's etc. Buy the plain version, not the foo-foo girlie ones.
    Melt together and allow to cool a bit before casting into sticks for a lubrisizer or pan lubing. If you pour it too hot, it will separate like a parfait. Chuck Fugate of Chiswell's Exiles (?) says a chemist friend said to mix a few flakes of Ivory soap into the pot and that problem goes away. I haven't tried it yet, but will with the next batch.

    I shoot 40grains of Goex 3fg powder, (the bulk kind I buy from Back Creek Gun Shop) and a hard lead bullet (3/1 pure lead and wheelweights) sized to .542. I don't think the powder charge is important, but the bullet shape, size and weight plus a good lube is critical for any gun. Read Dr. Franklin Mann's "The Bullet's Flight" and learn all about interior ballistics and the use of the Greenhill Formula to get the right combination for your gun.

    Sorry to get so chatty. It's a quiet morning here.
    Bob Anderson
    Ordnance Sergeant
    Company C, 1st Michigan Volunteer Infantry
    Small Arms Committee

    "I won't be wronged. I won't be insulted. I won't be laid a hand on.
    I don't do these things to other people, and I require the same from them."
    - John Wayne in "The Shootist", 1976

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    gemmer is offline
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    1859 Sharps

    Bob:

    Are you shooting a Pedersoli?

    Duane

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