Smoothbore Theory

[Maillemaker]

And of course, every hobby is going to have its expenses, and not everyone can indulge in every hobby. But once you get beyond the cost of the firearms, N-SSA shooting isn't that terrible.

Powder from Back Creek Gun shop is $15 a pound. Pure lead from Rotometals is $2 a pound. Primers from Back Creek Gun Shop are $73 per 1000.

Assuming a 50 grain charge (.007 pounds), and a 530 grain bullet (.076 pounds) and a primer, you get the following cost per shot:

Powder: $.015
Bullet: $.152
Primer: $.073
--------------
Total: $.24 per shot.

If you go to the range and shoot 100 rounds, you'll be out about $25 in bullet materials. Of course there are other expenses like lube, patches, Ballistol, and oil, so figure $30 for an afternoon of shooting.

There aren't many hobbies left where you can spend an afternoon doing something for $30.

If my bullet catcher works, and I think it will, it is going to negate my practice lead costs, as I will recycle my bullets. That brings the cost per shot down to about $.09, which means you can go shoot 100 shots for about $10.

Steve

[P A Laake 10798]

I shoot an H&P that I put together using a Bobby Hoyt barrel that has a .687" bore. I use a Tanner mould that casts balls at .672". With smoothbores with .690" bores I use another Tanner mould that cast balls at .675", so I'm shooting balls that are .015" under bore size. I roll the balls between two files....one is a large flat-bastard mill file and the other is what I'd call a medium cut wood/metal rasp. I coat the balls with liquid Alox and roll-on another coat the next day. I ain't got a clue as to why it works, but it works pretty good for me. In a clean bore, the first ball will fall all the way down the bore...after that the weight of the ramrod will take the balls down for awhile. When the bore collects more fouling I have to use a little pressure the seat the balls, but I can shoot an entire team event without wiping or brushing. Also, I make up my loads with 60 grs. 3F Goex in the black vinyl tubes and plug the end with a lubbed ball.

[Mike McDaniel]

I'll let you in on my Great Big Secret.

Air pistol.

Shooting is a relatively fungible skill. If you can shoot one rifle well, you can shoot any rifle passably, provided it shoots straight at all. Ditto for pistol.

Now, a mid-grade air pistol (not the plinker grade, you won't learn anything with that) will set you back about $600. Match-grade pellets are $12 for a tin of 500. Shoot 20 shots per session, three or four practice sessions per week. Every week - I repeat, every week.

Then add in a weekly practice with your Skirmish gun.

You'll get results - and will be shocked at how well you shoot.

[hp gregory]

if im not mistaken all smoothbore barrels were checked early on. i guess they didnt find much because they stopped doing it. i have had a number of smoothys and everyone of them would shoot pretty good if you spent the time it takes to get the load done correctly. the H&P i have now has a hoyt replacement barrel. im told by a lot of folks an orignal barrel shoots even better. if thats the case then they must shoot pretty dam good. there are a lot folks that have figured smoothbores out and their performance proves it. its not unusual to clean a smoothbore team event these days. in fact on our team it happens quite often. theres no big secret to it any longer. proper ball to bore fit, a thin coat of alox and 45 grns of swiss makes our smoothbores do as good as we can hold them. at least 4 people on our team have topped 25 points in individuals and we have placed well in the national team events. so for the record a regular old smoothbore will shoot well enough to do anything that needs doing. you still gota hold and aim it. and thats where the challenge realy is. there isnt any magic potion or a super dooper barrel that will make up for hard work and dedication.

hp

[efritz]

Ah, Thank you Mr Laake. You've provided the required numbers of bore to bullet ratio, approx. .15 under bore size. I assumed as much that it would be somewhere in that vacinity, but I didn't want to buy a bunch of different moulds. I've been using a .678 Lyman in a Hoyt .687. I'll be in touch with Mr. Tanner. I too have some of his moulds and like them very much. Not Lyman, RCBS quality but very functional.

As for the so called cheating. I would find it very hard to believe that Bob Hoyt or any other barrel facilitator would make such a barrel for the expressed cause of cheating. I know the 3 things of good marksmanship of practice, practice, practice. But I also have learned through shooting 3 and 4 position indoor/outdoor .22 competition since I was nine years old (some 45 years) and skirmishing about the same that you are going to be only as good as your equipment. Believe me. I have tried and tried and tried to accurize my H&P for 50yd, but haven't been able. It was a matter of being on the right path. Mr. Laake has provided that for me. .15 thousandths. Who'da thunk it...

[P A Laake 10798]

Make sure it's around .015" and not .15" !!!!! Also, I shoot 60 grs. 3F Goex because it puts me on target...the less powder I shoot the higher it shoots for some reason. I assume its because with a lesser powder charge, the muzzle is coming up before the ball exits.???

[Eggman]

Love all the "how to" comments. Still am kind of wondering about the "what happens" stuff. Can we not get indicators without resorting to the high tech equipment? I know some of you proficient guys will occasionally shoot into a soft back stop. What do the balls look like? And from that, what are they doing as they travel down the bore: rubbing the sides (scrape marks on the sides)?? centered like HP thinks (almost pristine with black powder scortch) ?? Better yet, why don't one of you guys buy a super high speed camera and shoot some pictures back toward the barrel just as the ball exits (a precaution or two might be in order here).
I gotta think a lot of this has already been done. Can we get it posted here?

[rachbobo]

Love all the "how to" comments. Still am kind of wondering about the "what happens" stuff. Can we not get indicators without resorting to the high tech equipment? I know some of you proficient guys will occasionally shoot into a soft back stop. What do the balls look like? And from that, what are they doing as they travel down the bore: rubbing the sides (scrape marks on the sides)?? centered like HP thinks (almost pristine with black powder scortch) ?? Better yet, why don't one of you guys buy a super high speed camera and shoot some pictures back toward the barrel just as the ball exits (a precaution or two might be in order here).
I gotta think a lot of this has already been done. Can we get it posted here?

I'd suggest talking to a major league catcher who deals with Knuckle Ball Pitchers, Hoyt Wilhelm and alike.
The non spinning Knuckle Ball bobs and floats where ever it will just like a ball from a smoothbore.
I guess that's why catchers put on a large glove when trying to catch a Knuckle Ball.

Bill Cheek
Cockade Rifles

[Eggman]

You're blowing my mind Bill.

[Eggman]

---

My mind "races" back to those balmy days out on the prairie with the old smooth bore trade musket. Unlike N-SSAers, the round ballers patch the round ball in their smoothbores, so the ball comes out nice and straight with absolutely no spin. With this system I have been able to hit an old five gallon oil can consistently at ten yards, but nothing else (I should mention there is a sight problem here also -- namely none). But anyway, in my mind the shots were wildly inconsistant. Maybe it wasn't just the man behind the gun after all Bill. Maybe it was the Hoyt Wilhelm affect. Do I dare say the smoothbore guys need to find a way to put some rotation on the ball??????? Could it be that's what the dimples do?????????????