1842 armi sport trigger and lock question

[eric]

Hello all,

Just joined and this is my first post thanks in advance for any help with my questions.

I just bought a 1842 Springfield Armi Sport smoothbore. The trigger is not great. You have to pull pretty good because if you don't the hammer will stop in half cock. Any suggestion how to fix? All in all fun to shoot and once I got use to the trigger I was able to group shoot pretty decently at 25 yards off hand. Not the best but it was my first time out with this musket. Finally I am curious anyone know if orginal or TRS parts are compatible/interchangeable with the current Armi Sport Version.

Thanks,
Eric

[Ron/The Old Reb]

Sounds like someone worked on the lock and filled the sear down to much or the sear notch on the tumbler. You probably will have to replace the sear or the tumbler or maybe both. I would replace both and start out fresh.

[eric]

It was brand new in the box and unfired until yesterday so probably defective from the factory. I am was thinking is going to need part replacement or work on smoothing the sear and etc. Thanks for the help.

Eric

[GPM]

I don't think any of the parts from the Rifle Shoppe would interchange, you would be better served buying replacement Armi Sport parts.
The Blockade Runner sutler is very reasonable on parts and ships quick.

[Gary Van Kauwenbergh, 101]

Most EuroArms and ArmiSport muskets I've seen came from the factory with about an 18 pound trigger pull. Dropping into half-cock right out of the box just isn't right. If there's any parts needing replacing, I would think returning the musket is the way to go, but if they're all still okay and you're going to have a trigger job anyway, I wouldn't bother.

Here's a link on how to do a trigger job on your musket: http://www.nwtskirmisher.com/useful-locks.shtml

[hobbler]

Most EuroArms and ArmiSport muskets I've seen came from the factory with about an 18 pound trigger pull. Dropping into half-cock right out of the box just isn't right. If there's any parts needing replacing, I would think returning the musket is the way to go, but if they're all still okay and you're going to have a trigger job anyway, I wouldn't bother.

Here's a link on how to do a trigger job on your musket: http://www.nwtskirmisher.com/useful-locks.shtml

Thanks. I needed that!

[Curt]

Hallo!

Original parts or reproductions of original parts rarely if ever, well never maybe.. fit Italian reproductions.

IMHO, one of the biggest issues with Italian reproductions is the seeming lack of Quality Control or anything that is remotely consistent QC. Meaning, one lad opens a box and everything is fine. The next is so-so. and the third has major problems and issues.
And that pertains to fit and finish, as well as hardening and tempering issues.

Not to mention such important things as the location and depth of full-cock and half-cock notches and the relationships or geometry of lock internals. I have compared, in hand, Italian tumblers and have found the "notches" to be of different shapes and actually 'off' on their locations on the tumbler face.

IMHO still, Italian QC issues are often dealt with by vendors simply replacing a "bad' one with a new one. With the hopes that the randomness of the whole thing will give the customer a better one than the one he traded in.

Curt

[R. McAuley 3014V]

As Gary suggested, if you are only going to have a trigger job done anyway, then thereis no need to replace any parts beforehand. For a trigger job, I would recommend Rob Lewis ofTri-L Machine (937-252-1978, Waynesville, Ohio. If the work is done at theNational, Rob simply replaces the ArmiSport tumbler with one’s he has alreadly modifiedbeforehand with cobalt weld, then adjusts the other interfacing parts and sear spring as required to reducethe trigger pull to whatever weight the customer specifies, though in most instancesit’s a 4-lb trigger pull. So if you are accustomed to a heavier trigger pull(say 12 to 18-lbs), you may need to learn how to shoot your musket all over againfor new target zeroes. Rob has done trigger jobs on three of my repro muskets,and rebuilt the tip of the sear on an original P/60 Enfield. Since having this work done, I rarely miss a target unless its my own fault.

[Southron Sr.]

What I highly recommend that IN THE FUTURE when you get ready to get a new Italian reproduction firearm, go to a N-SSA Nationals or to a large re-enactment where Sutlers are set up and have several "new in the box" of the type of replica firearms you are considering pruchasing.

To start with, Ask the Sutler IF you can look at the replicas. Get his permission first. [Most Sutlers WANT to sell their merchandise so they are more than happy to let you look at it! When you ask his permission, that tells the Sutler you are serious about buying from him.

Here is what to look for on a replica firearm:

1. Good Wood to metal fit. It should look like the wood literally "grew around" the metal! In other words no gaps between the wood of the stock and the metal parts such as buttplate, lock, barrel, etc.

2. No knots or other imperfections (including splinters in the stock.

4. Make sure that the sights are mounted PERPENDICULAR TO THE BARREL. I looked at one rifle and was amazed to discover the front sight was cocked over to the left!

5. While making sure you do not "Snap" the hammer on the bare nipple, work the lock with your hands. Make sure that the trigger pull is decent. that the "Half-Cock" works and of course, the center of the face of the hammer rests on the nipple when the hammer is in the down position.

THE TRICK IS TO LOOK AT THE "LITTLE THINGS" ON THE REPLICA AND IF THEY ARE O.K., THEN THAT IS THE REPLICA YOU SHOULD BUY.