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Thread: Lorrenz nipple battering solution?

  1. #1
    Steve Weems is offline
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    Lorrenz nipple battering solution?

    One of the problems I have with my Muster 1854 Lorenz is that the hammer strikes with such force
    that it is deforming the nipple out of shape--this is only after a few shots. Is there a way of modifying
    the original spring to lighten it to a normal hit force. By normal I mean it does not batter the top edge
    of the nipple out of shape.

    Thanks for any help in this.

  2. #2
    Muley Gil is offline
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    Re: Lorrenz nipple battering solution?

    First, find a second spring that isn't as strong.

    If your secong spring isn't any weaker, then you can "wasp waist" the upper arm by removing metal from both sides. The trick is to not overheat the upper arm and to not add any stress points. You must work along the length of the spring. Polish the spring without leaving any nicks.

    Work slowly and check often.
    Gil Davis Tercenio
    # 3020V
    34th Battalion, Virginia Cavalry
    Great, great grandson of Cpl Elijah S Davis, Co I, 6th Alabama Inf CSA

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    Blair is offline
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    Re: Lorrenz nipple battering solution?

    Steve,

    My suggestion would be to check the wear on the face of the hammer you are now using.
    This could be sufficient to cause damage to any of the new cone/nipples you may install.

    You maybe able to have the hammer face rebuilt, or, if you can find a better hammer, replace the one you are now using.
    Just a thought,
    Blair

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    rachbobo is offline Banned
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    Re: Lorrenz nipple battering solution?

    A few questions first. Is this an original or replica musket. Either way if you can get a replacement spring that would be better than tampering with an original.
    If the hammer face is uniform and hits flat and not on any form of an angle I can give you instructions on how to safely weaken the spring by reheating it if you are interested.
    It entails the use of your lead pot and an RCBS lead thermometer to control the temperature.
    I have been hand building locks for years and suffered many a broken spring until I came across this method and have never had a spring fail since.
    Regardless of reheating or filing away material you risk ruining it but reheating has less risk.

    Bill Cheek

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    rachbobo is offline Banned
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    Re: Lorrenz nipple battering solution?

    I struggled for year making springs the way I read in a DGW catalog.
    Getting the spring red hot then quenching in oil to make it brittle is easy.
    But using a so called color chart to tell the temperature for drawing the temper is iffy at best. Also using a propane torch heats the spring unevenly.
    If the spring is not heated enough it will remain brittle and snap easily when bent.
    If over heated it will be soft and bend and take a set.
    I broke more spring than I made.
    Then I had a "Slap myself in the Forehead Moment" after uttering many obscenities at myself.
    I ordered a temp thermometer made by RCBS. It goes from 200=1,000 degrees.
    Now when I'm ready to draw the temper on the spring I get my lead pot up to the 810 degrees listed by DGW. I wrap the spring with tin foil to keep the lead off of it then hold it submerged untill I feel it is saturated with the heat. Then remove it and let it air cool.
    I have made many springs using this way and have yet to have one fail on me.

    As far as the battered nipple from a too strong spring this method can be used to weaken it slightly. My guess is that when the temper was drawn it was not heated high enough making it overly strong for the size spring stock it was made from.
    Beg Borrow or buy the RCBS thermometer to control the temperature of the lead. Do it at 810 degrees and it should work. If it's still too heavy do it again at around 825 degrees.
    If you up the temp too high and the spring gets soft and takes a set, not to worry. You can always start over by making it brittle and redrawing the temper.
    It's a lot easier than breaking a spring and having to make or buy a new one.

    Bill Cheek

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    Eggman is offline Banned
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    Re: Lorrenz nipple battering solution?

    I have a Durs Egg flintlock that would eat a flint in about three shots. My friend the machinist/gunsmith who had the rifle before tried to slow the hammer down by wrapping the flint in a sheet of lead. No good. When I got the rifle I got fed up and took out the main spring and began filing the business (upper) half of the mainspring, the part the flexes, lengthwise until in was about half its original thickness. Has worked like a prince since PLUS no brittleness from haphazzard heat treating. You are taking NO risks modifying a spring that is a malcontent.
    I had a replacement bullet guide spring that was also a crappo. Filed the business half of that to half thickness. Same result.
    Remember always file lengthwise.

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    rachbobo is offline Banned
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    Re: Lorrenz nipple battering solution?

    A few in here asked me about how I heat treat to draw the temper of a spring so I replyed.
    Using the written Color Chart from DGW is haphazzard and I ruined many a spring that way.
    The RCBS thermometer in a lead pot is more precise and controllable. Even if the spring is over heated and made soft it can always be retempered with no damage
    I have used a file with great success many times in the past but only as a last resort.
    Material removed by a file can not be put back.
    I'm only offering an alternate way of solving the problem.

    Bill Cheek

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    Steve Weems is offline
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    Re: Lorrenz nipple battering solution?

    To answer Bill Cheek's questions this is an original Muster 1854 and all the lock parts are original. The hammer face shows a small raised area aroud where the
    top edge of the nipple would be. The nipple is a new repalcement. This discussion is very informative and I will have to think about the course of action
    I will take. Much appreciation for the feedback! Regards to all ----Steve Weems

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