Spend a buck. Have someone who knows, do it. If it goes bad, you can torture them, forever
Spend a buck. Have someone who knows, do it. If it goes bad, you can torture them, forever
Lou Lou Lou Ruggiero
Tammany Regt-42nd NYVI
Lou,
Got any suggestions??
-Mike
Mike 'Bootsie' Bodner
Palmetto Sharpshooter's, Commander
9996V
Should be a piece of cake for your local machine shop.
Bob Hoyt fixed the two repops that my father and I have. He drilled out the hole and basically put a piece of stainless all thread in from the bolster area into the breech itself. He had to re-drill the flash channel and add a small hole in the side to let the flash through to the nipple. I now have an 1/8 inch worth of threads that all make contact, and could probably put a little longer of a screw in.
My suggestion would be to have a professional fix it.
Joe Plakis XXVIII
Middle-Atlantic Region
SAC
9575V
"Great leadership does not mean running away from reality. Sometimes the hard truths might just demoralize the company, but at other times sharing difficulties can inspire people to take action that will make the situation better." John Kotter
Boots
I don't know who you have in your area. Any machinist should be able to do it. If you get one that is a "gun guy" you are ahead of the game. Good Luck.
Lou Lou Lou Ruggiero
Tammany Regt-42nd NYVI
Wondering -- if you redrill to the diameter of the larger recess hole, then thread from there just past the depth of the original screw, would you not have plenty of thread area for the new screw and still be short of the flash channel. A fine thread bolt about one-fourth inch plus long would seem to have plenty of grab area (yeah I know, the tap would have to go in a bit deeper) and still be short of the flash channel. Leave the head on the outside surface. Are you sick of these comments yet Bootsie??
Heck No!! The more ideas the better (well, at least some of them...)
I did get a private email from a member that in going to send me some machining instructions on how to make the fix. May be similar to your idea.
If I go the route of drilling and tapping the entire hole, I would definately use an allen screw so I could keep it flush with the side of the reciever. Lock-tite it in - Still gives me a clean out if needed. My main concern is not breaking the tap in the hole (no more jokes about use the tap as the plug...)
Anyone have any suggestions on really good taps to use (that I could order 1 off the internet - Not a whole set...).
I don't mind buying a kick-butt drill and tap, but I don't want to spend more than the gun costs for full sets of drills/taps made from kryptonite!! What speeds to drill at?? Obviously, use tons of cutting fluid. Threads per inch on the plug (24,32, 48...) - Where is the point of diminising returns on TPI verses thread depth?
Any other methods folks have used (successfully) that they did themselves are welcome.
I could always zap it with the MIG welder, but it would end up looking like crud, so I want to be more elegant.
-Mike
Mike 'Bootsie' Bodner
Palmetto Sharpshooter's, Commander
9996V
Mike Just a side note DON'T WELD . The N-SSA rules are clear on welding of barrels and bolster areas under 14.13
The drill. tap and larger screw is the way to fly. Tap safley Wayne Shaw 1985V
Damn good point....
Mike 'Bootsie' Bodner
Palmetto Sharpshooter's, Commander
9996V
I think you have an excellent plan Boots. The folks who shoot to your right will all be interested in seeing the result.
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