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Thread: Glass Beding Info

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Coos Bay Oregon

    Glass Beding Info

    I am awaiting delivery of my Euroarms 3 band 1853, and intend to bed it. I have bedded bolt guns, and used to bed M-1's and M-14's for myself and others (yes I have the alignment blocks from Brownells to do it correctly on M-1 and M-14 rifles) so I feel competent to do the work, but really need to get some instruction on where to relieve wood, bedding material type recommendations, etc. Illustrations would be great too. It is just that I have never bedded a muzzle loader before, and with long arms I have bedded there are often different techniques or theories on where and how much to bed (full length vs partial length, etc) and my guess is muzzle loaders may be the same in this respect. Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Dayton, Ohio

    Re: Glass Beding Info


    You will want to relieve the area around the breech, both horizontal and vertical. Bed from the rear of the tang to about 6" in front of the breech. Some will tell you to bed the whole barrel, but if you are doing a 2 band gun, this is not really necessary. Another accuracy hint; the middle bands should be somewhat loose and the front band just barely snug. Hope this helps.
    Greg Ogdan, 11444
    110th OVI

  3. #3
    Southron Sr. is offline
    24th Georgia Volunteer Infantry
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Carolina - North Carolina and South Carolina

    Re: Glass Beding Info

    I always do a Full Length Bedding Job for several reasons:

    1. A thick bedding job increases the structural strength of the stock, a very desirable thing.

    2. A Full Length Bedding Job "seals" the barrel channel from the intrusion of moisture that can change the "Zero" of a rifle-musket after it is sighted in.

    Doing the stock channel is simplicity in itself. Using a Dremel Tool, I rout out as much wood as I dare in the barrel channel, I also "undercut" in the channel so when the glass bedding compound flows into those spaces, the glass bedding (after it sets) is mechanically locked into the barrel channel.

    Keep in mind that a "Tight" Tang Screw definitely enhances accuracy. Therefore I always rout out the tang screw hole and deepen the tang recess in the stock so bedding compound can flow down into and around the tang screw and, at the same time, the bottom of the barrel tang is supported by glass bedding under it.

    A Glass Bedded Tang Screw is definitely a desirable thing. The big hassle is unscrewing the tang screw the first time after the bedding has set up. There was a time when I had to heat the Tang Screw very hot to get the glass bedding to "release" it.

    Matter of fact, I have sometimes don't even bother with using Release Agent on the barrel, but instead gently heat the barrel to 300 F with a Propane Torch (being careful NOT to char the wood of the stock.) Then with the barrel bands removed and the Tang Screw removed I will gently hit the underside of the muzzle with a rubber mallet. That usually "pops" the barrel free. Then you have to sand down the bedding "fins" that stick up above the sides of the barrel channel.

    Anyway, I prefer to use the Brownell's Glass Bedding kits-the trick is to mix up ENOUGH BEDDING COMPOUND to fully fill the barrel channel, the tang screw hole, etc. This takes A LOT of glass bedding compound!

    Another trick: I sometimes lay down an inconspicious layer of bedding compound directly behind the bolster. This prevents cap flash from charring the stock wood behind the bolster.

    Also, strip the lock and be sure to have the lock plate installed when you put the barrel back into the arm after you fill the barrel channel with glass bedding compound. I generally fill up the lock recess with modeling clay to keep bedding compound from intruding into it.

    Then I install the barrel bands (on Springfields, with the horizonal "U" on the RIGHT SIDE of the stock with the open end of the "U" pointing towards the muzzle.) For Enfields, the screw heads of the bands will be on the LEFT side of the arm.

    Then install the lock plate making sure that the surface of the lockplate is even with the top of the moulding around the lock mortice in the stock.


    Make sure no bedding compound intrudes into the ramrod channel. I generally install the ramrod and then move it in and out while the bedding is setting up to be sure that IF bedding compound does intrude into the channel, the ramrod will spread it out so it does not present a problem. WARNING-NEVER LET YOUR RAMROD GET "GLUED" IN THE RAMROD CHANNEL BY BEDDING COMPOUND!

    Use wet rags, wetted with hot water, to wipe away the excess Glass Bedding that oozes out of the barrel channel, etc.

    Anyway, GOOD LUCK!

    I always like to brag that after I glass bed a musket the STOCK IS A GLASS STOCK WITH A WOOD VENEER ON IT!

  4. #4
    Tim Lyne is offline
    Knap's Battery, Pennsylvania Artillery
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Lisburn, Pa.
    Allegheny - Maryland, Pennsylvania, West Virginia and Virginia

    Re: Glass Beding Info

    A couple of additional epoxy tricks:
    1. Vinegar will clean up epoxy squeeze out. Anything else just kinda smears it around in my experience.
    2. If you are using epoxy for "inlay" type of work, (inletting a sideplate for instance) take a lamp or trouble light, anything that has an "old-fashioned" incandescent bulb and slowly move it over the epoxy squeeze out. This will heat it enough to free the bubbles from the epoxy. You'll see them come to the top of the squeeze out and burst. Stop when no more come to the surface. This assures a completely filled and flat inlay when filed/sanded flush with the wood.

    In the Luthiery fraternity, Bubbles around an inlay of any sort is a sign of poor quality work and is subject to severe and harshly meant criticisms...which is typically really hard on sensitive "artsy-fartsy" people.

    Tim Lyne
    Knap's Batt.

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