Glue for Gunstocks

[Scott Lynch 1460V]

What is the best glue to use to splice a forend on with? I plan to glass bed after I have attached the forend, but want to glue the stock together first. Thanks

[Greg Ogdan, 11444]

Scott,
I'm sure others will have thoughts, but, for me, I like any hide glue or Gorilla Glue, which is an "improved" hide type glue.

[Scott Lynch 1460V]

Greg I tried gorilla glue and it was useless. I followed the instructions to the letter and the stock came apart in my hands as soon as I put any stress on it. Thanks anyway.

[Andy Goddard]

I have used Hot stuff Instsant Glue from Bownells. It comes in different thicknesses for the size of repair. I would imagine the repair would last permanent if you bed over it. Just make sure the crack is clean. I use alcohol to clean first, then let it dry. Good Luck.....Andy

[slou92]

Give systems three t-88 epoxy a try. I just did this and the joint is solid!

[David Disher 12143]

You may consider using a couple small dowels, in addition to any glue that you may use. As you arent working with a large surface area to bond together, any additional support you can give the joint will help immensely.

I did this very thing on restoration project with an old 1816 that had been sporterized, and used (2) 1/4" dowels, on either side of the barrel channel, centered into the meat of the forestock...and used Gorilla glue. Try to be sparing with the glue...too much will not give you a good strong joint. Be sure to use glue in the dowel holes as well.

Regards,

Ddisher
110thOVI
12143

[Charlie Hahn]

Scott,

I use the glass kit epoxy of what ever system I am using. This way I don't have to worry about compatability of materials over time
If I can use dowels, I do to provide additional surface, (another post) I use a several step process that includes adding a dog bone or bow tie steel splice inside the barrel channel when I do the final glass. This added an additional stiffener that is inside the whole bonded stock.
Charlie

[jefskirmisher]

I am not a gunsmith, however I am a carpenter and have glued hundreds of board feet of wood together. I have always had luck with Titebond products. The original product may not be the best because most of us use some sort of water based cleaner to clean our guns. However the Titebond III is a waterproof glue that will hold tighter than the grain of the wood that you are gluing. I have glued wood together using these products and then hit them with a hammer for a test. The wood always breaks before the glue joint. Good Luck!

Jason Frazer
2nd OVI

[John Holland]

Jason,

I had asked "Where should I look to find Titebond III?" I

got my answer in minutes.

John Gottschall just called me with a location only about 3 miles from my house!

Thanks to all, and especially John G.

John

[John Bly]

Scott, I like to use Brownell's original Acraglas for such a joint. A butt joint is the most difficult joint to get to hold. The mating parts must be clean & dry. Two 1/4" wooden dowels, one on each side drilled about 3/4" into the stocks are a good idea. The original Acraglas is in liqiud form and many people do not like it because of this, but it will absorb into the wood somewhat and give a better bond. Be sure to use the glass fibers included in the kit. They are strengtheners such as horsehair used in antiquity in mortar joints or modern whiskered ceramics or the ultra strong enhanced titanium used in aerospace applications.
After the initial joining, I chisel out from the inside about an inch into each section about 3/8" wide x 3/8" deep being careful to not get into the ramrod channel. I install a snug fitting wooden tenon in this slot when I glass bed the barrel to the stock & bands. This provides a lap joint to fasten the sections together which is a much stronger joint. A stock done this way will be a permanent job and never give any problems coming loose or falling apart. Best of luck in your endeavor. John D. Bly 5109V