Where can one get a Musket cap Maker ?
( a #11capmaker would be nice also.)
Kenny Carmichael 7694V
Where can one get a Musket cap Maker ?
( a #11capmaker would be nice also.)
Kenny Carmichael 7694V
Haven't seen one for musket caps, but here's one for #11 caps.
https://22lrreloader.com/products/11...sion-cap-maker
I have the 22reloader one for making #11 caps (or maybe I bought one for #10, can't remember).
Works pretty good. I have not tried priming the hulls yet.
Steve
Steve Sheldon
Commander, 4th Louisiana Delta Rifles
Deputy Commander, Deep South Region
NRA Certified Muzzleloading Instructor
Does anyone have the recipe for the priming compound and how to install it?
Check out this web site for numerous recipes:
https://aardvarkreloading.com/
If I am remembering right, the 22reloader compound is H48.
https://aardvarkreloading.com/H48.html
If you pursue this, understand you are mixing a contact explosive so be extremely cautious and only work with tiny batches.
Steve Sheldon
Commander, 4th Louisiana Delta Rifles
Deputy Commander, Deep South Region
NRA Certified Muzzleloading Instructor
So,
I just saw this online:
https://peacemaker.store/products/1081-musket-cap-maker
No experience with this product, nor do I have any relationship with this seller. Caveat Emptor.
Peacemaker is the guy from Poland, he also goes by MrColt...I have been in contact with him, I do not know if this avenue will be a reliable one. However, prices were good.
Unsure as of yet...it seems the mixing compound is corrosive, I am pursuing the toy cap with 3fff or 4ffff powder route...it might be cleaner than the compound - time will tell.
Dixie says they have Tap-O-Cap #11 and 22lrreloader has #11 Percussion Cap Maker...it's time to invest!
Keith A. Williams
15th. Reg VA Vol Cav
I played with plastic cap gun caps a little. They are not nearly as powerful as regular #10s or 11s but they will set off GOEX if the channel is fairly direct. Their limited power means they may not work in a long or convoluted fire channel and they may affect the ignition/burn rate of the charge resulting in a change of POI and group size. However they are quite corrosive which wouldn't matter if one cleaned right after using. I did not try adding anything to the priming in them.
I have been punching caps and priming them for the last week. The tool does work nicely on beer cans however, with a #11 nipple placed into a carbine or musket the aluminum will clog the throat. The same thing happens using thicker 5 mil aluminum as well...so, it is out for skirmishing.
I moved onto 5 mil - 36-gauge brass sheeting which needs a firmer punch to produce them...a rubber mallet works perfectly for this. The brass holds up and will not cut out a circle on top of the cap. Also, I have reloaded spent brass caps a couple of times, it seems they hold up well for reusing.
I have gone the route of using paper roll caps, 3fff powder, and acetone with Duco cement as this bonds the additives in place while waterproofing the interior...furthermore, the Duco burns out nicely!
By soaking or applying water to the roll caps...the red (rice paper?) cover paper will peel off nicely allowing access to the priming dots. An Exacto knife works great to scrape off the dots in whole form.
I have been inserting two dots into my caps along with 3fff powder compacted before dripping a drop of acetone and cement into it. Let dry 24 hours or speed along the process with a hair dryer. If more "SNAP" is needed...add more dots, simple as that which is cool!
While I am still experimenting, I will add fine aluminum powder in the future to increase performance.
It is not a tedious as you would think, caps can be punched while watching the NFL playoffs and primed whenever separately.
With 3fff or 4ffff added, these caps become magnum charged...even more with additional dots added.
Good luck.
Keith A. Williams
15th. Reg VA Vol Cav
Last edited by Keith Williams; 1 Week Ago at 12:46 AM.
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