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Thread: Splitting cartridge tube problem solved?

  1. #11
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    Gah. Kicked off a batch of 100 last night and stringing is back. More experiments needed.
    Steve Sheldon
    Commander, 4th Louisiana Delta Rifles
    Deputy Commander, Deep South Region
    NRA Certified Muzzleloading Instructor

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maillemaker View Post
    Gah. Kicked off a batch of 100 last night and stringing is back. More experiments needed.
    Could be heat buildup in the extruder, if you have a fan, crank it up and see what happens? When I was printing the cartridge boxes 6 at a time non stop for days, I would just throw a box fan down next to the printer to help with layer adhesion. That's essentially what stringing is, just poor layer adhesion. Will also probably go away if you slow the movement speed down a bit, especially if it's near a consistent layer.
    John Westenberger
    Co. B. 1st PA Cav.

  3. #13
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    Splitting cartridge tube problem solved?

    Quote Originally Posted by Maillemaker View Post
    Yup, the cap plugs are actually too small for our use.

    I tried the boiling trick mentioned earlier, all it did was shrink the tubes, I suspect making them even more prone to splitting.

    Worse, any bullet with a shoulder, like the Hodgdon bullet, is almost impossible to load without using a mandrel to first "bell" the mouth of the cap. Which again stresses the case mouth, often resulting in splits.

    Do you have a link to the semi-opaque tubes you are selling?
    Steve
    If you look at my post above your question, I am selling them.
    If you want where I buy them, I buy them from Caplug. You only have to place a minimum order fro 15,000 tubes and wait about 2 months to get them.
    Joe Plakis Jr 00302V
    Hampton Legion

  4. #14
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    Hi Joe,

    I was asking if you had a link to buy your opaque plugs. Like do you have a web store from which to buy them. I'd like to buy some.

    Could be heat buildup in the extruder, if you have a fan, crank it up and see what happens? When I was printing the cartridge boxes 6 at a time non stop for days, I would just throw a box fan down next to the printer to help with layer adhesion. That's essentially what stringing is, just poor layer adhesion. Will also probably go away if you slow the movement speed down a bit, especially if it's near a consistent layer.
    I've been told that wet filament is a big cause of stringing, so I have ordered a dryer.

    Steve
    Steve Sheldon
    Commander, 4th Louisiana Delta Rifles
    Deputy Commander, Deep South Region
    NRA Certified Muzzleloading Instructor

  5. #15
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    Well, it wasn't "wet" filament. I think this has become somewhat of a catch-all suggestion for printing issue. I heard one guy threw a spool of filament in his bathtub and let it sit and it printed fine.

    Turns out, it was the "retraction" setting. When printing, the filament has to retract a small amount when the head moves from place to place, or filament oozes out during travel, causing stringing. I had to up the retraction setting value. Also fiddled around with temperature settings as I was having wall adhesion issues after I fixed the stringing issue.

    Anyway, just did a batch of 4 tubes and no issues.

    Now I will do a batch of 25.

    Steve
    Steve Sheldon
    Commander, 4th Louisiana Delta Rifles
    Deputy Commander, Deep South Region
    NRA Certified Muzzleloading Instructor

  6. #16
    Lou Lou Lou is offline
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    This is rocket science to me
    Lou Lou Lou Ruggiero
    Tammany Regt-42nd NYVI

  7. #17
    geezmo is offline
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    I?m with you Lou. This is way too involved for me. While I admire their technical expertise my eyes glaze over and mind goes numb when I listen/read this stuff. They might as well be speaking Chinese, I would get just as much out of it. I am glad I have a good supply of old cap plugs that I acquired back when the supply of old cardboard tubes dried up. I have only had a handful split on me over the years. I?m glad that my stash will out last me.

    Barry Selzner (Technically Challenged)

  8. #18
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    3D printing is like squeezing toothpaste out of a tube. Or icing out of a cake icing tube.

    If you keep squeezing while moving the tube from one place to another, stuff will keep oozing out.

    Even if you stop squeezing, sometimes stuff will ooze out. Retraction sucks up the goo so there is no ooze out.
    Steve Sheldon
    Commander, 4th Louisiana Delta Rifles
    Deputy Commander, Deep South Region
    NRA Certified Muzzleloading Instructor

  9. #19
    jim14th's Avatar
    jim14th is offline
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    Lightbulb Tubes

    I've been using these specimen tubes, friend of mine in one of the labs gave me for over 40 years now
    They have a flexible top. I load it anywhere from a .573 to a .580 ball without a problem and could load over sixty grains, if needed. Out of a few 100 I use, maybe split half dozen?Name:  20241128_084706.jpg
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  10. #20
    PoorJack is offline
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    The issue with current production of the pipe cap types is that the plastic they use is "regrind". It's basically recycled and the problem is on the molecular level. The regrind process breaks the long chain polymers that make the plastic flexible and leaves it brittle and subject to cracking. That's not an issue with pipe caps, but is an issue for our purpose. I've gotten some of the current production caps from Joe Platkis and they do work if you heat them gently and put a bullet into the end to form it. Do that and there's no problem. Don't do that and you'll have splits in 25+% of them in short order.
    "A man can never have too much red wine, too many books, or too much ammunition"
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