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Thread: Shiloh sharps

  1. #1
    g smitty 45 is offline
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    Shiloh sharps

    All:
    Do the Shiloh Sharps (Farmingdale) need the breach conversion done for long fire sessions?
    Tks
    Garry

  2. #2
    bobanderson is offline
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    The "Sam Dobbin" (RIP) method was devised to allow the breech to open and close repeatedly in a long session in individuals or team events.

    I'd say listen to your gun. If it is difficult to close after a long shot string, or you have "iffy" ignition, you might be a candidate.
    Since the skirmish season is upon us. I'd suggest shooting it and then contact Larry Flees to do his magic during the fall or winter.
    It's not an especially cheap or quick repair, but solves a multitude of issues.
    Bob Anderson
    Company C, 1st Michigan Volunteer Infantry
    Small Arms Committee

    "I won't be wronged. I won't be insulted. I won't be laid a hand on.
    I don't do these things to other people, and I require the same from them."
    - John Wayne in "The Shootist", 1976

  3. #3
    g smitty 45 is offline
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    Thank you Sir

  4. #4
    Jim_Burgess_2078V is offline
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    If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

    I've been shooting my Farmingdale Shiloh Sharps carbine for over 40 years without any need for a ring job. The breechblock may get a little stiff after a 5-minute event on a low humidity day but a drop of Hoppes patch lube (or equivalent) on each side of the chamber quickly loosens things again.

    Jim Burgess
    15th CVI

  5. #5
    Scooby is offline
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    I have a more recent Shiloh, and like the previous poster, I don't need the modification. I'm curious as to why? Did original Sharps gum up as quick as many of the repros?

  6. #6
    g smitty 45 is offline
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    Shiloh Sharps

    Thanks Guys for the info
    I just picked the Shiloh up and haven't had a chance to try it out. Good to know it should not have the fouling issues.
    What bullet do most shooters find works best. Sounds like the cardboard tubes are the way to go
    Garry

  7. #7
    Don Dixon is offline
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    Unlike the Italian reproductions the Shiloh Sharps rifles were/are properly built. I've never fired a string of shots that was long enough, and I've fired a hundred or more in a test and practice session, that I had any difficulty opening the breech block. But, I lubricate the sliding gas seal in the breech block with high temperature anti-seize compound, and strip the rifle down to clean it very thoroughly after each shooting session. If you shoot the rifle or carbine long enough, there will ultimately be gas cutting on the face of the gas seal which will require that it be replaced. Send it back to Shiloh for the repair. Don't screw around with anyone else.

    Regards,
    Don Dixon
    2881V

  8. #8
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    My 1863 Shiloh Sharps came in last February. Haven't had a chance to shoot it yet. I sure hope I don't have to send it off for breech work to make it skirmish worthy!

    Steve
    Steve Sheldon
    Commander
    4th Louisiana Delta Rifles
    NRA Certified Muzzleloading Instructor

  9. #9
    Jim_Burgess_2078V is offline
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    Sharps Bullets

    Quote Originally Posted by g smitty 45 View Post
    Thanks Guys for the info
    I just picked the Shiloh up and haven't had a chance to try it out. Good to know it should not have the fouling issues.
    What bullet do most shooters find works best. Sounds like the cardboard tubes are the way to go
    Garry
    I use an old Lyman ringtail bullet (a.k.a. "Christmas tree" bullet) which has 3 tapered rings. NEI and Rapine made clones but all are discontinued. I believe Moose Moulds offers an equivalent bullet today and there may be other options. I don't think you want to use a cardboard tube which may not burn completely and leave residue in the chamber. Some pre-made nitrated paper tubes may be somewhat stiff but I have no experience with those. I use loose powder (50 grains FFg) in my .54 caliber carbine dropped behind the bullet using a 3" long plastic tube which seats the bullet.

    Jim Burgess
    15th CVI

  10. #10
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    I am using the Larry Flees ringtail bullet. You can get it from Larry or Eras Gone. It is designed so that the first driving band fits into the bore, making this a "bore riding" bullet. The bullet stops on the rifling on the second ring. It works in my Pedersoli Sharps, that has a .520" bore, but the Shiloh has a .532" bore. The Flees ringtail actually fits both the first and second driving bands into the bore in the Shiloh. This would enable a larger powder charge (for whatever that may be worth).

    Even the Pedersoli Christmas Tree bullet the first driving band will fit in the bore in my Shiloh. But not in the Pedersoli!

    I believe that having the Sharps bullet fit partially into the bore enhances accuracy by ensuring that the bullet is coaxial with the bore on firing.

    I am a big fan of Charlie Hahn's cardboard tubes. They leave zero residue. They shatter and turn into confetti. The Flees ringtail works with the Hahn tubes, as most ringtails do.
    Steve Sheldon
    Commander
    4th Louisiana Delta Rifles
    NRA Certified Muzzleloading Instructor

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