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Thread: .69 smoothbore mold avalibility

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Will Ganz View Post
    just ordered mine from these folks:

    https://www.ballmoulds.com/product/ball-mould-medium/
    Problem is no integral sprue cutter. You'll be sititng down after casting and snipping sprues with that mold. But, at least it's an option for getting balls of the right size today.

    Also beware with the ball moulds guys that they say that the dimension you order is the dimension of the cavity you get - not the finished ball that will drop.

    Steve
    Steve Sheldon
    Commander
    4th Louisiana Delta Rifles
    NRA Certified Muzzleloading Instructor

  2. #12
    PapaRob is offline Banned
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maillemaker View Post
    Problem is no integral sprue cutter. You'll be sititng down after casting and snipping sprues with that mold. But, at least it's an option for getting balls of the right size today.

    Also beware with the ball moulds guys that they say that the dimension you order is the dimension of the cavity you get - not the finished ball that will drop.

    Steve
    Thats because as they cool they shrink a little right?

    I ordered a .680 mold from these guys to give a try.

    Martys Arms Round Ball Mold .680" (ballisticproducts.com)

    I have used it once and getting the pour right on it is a bit of trick and man oh man do the handles get hot but it seems to work once you get the hang of it. I haven't mic'd any of the rounds I have made from it yet to see what size they end up being after cooling though.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by PapaRob View Post
    Thats because as they cool they shrink a little right?

    I ordered a .680 mold from these guys to give a try.

    Martys Arms Round Ball Mold .680" (ballisticproducts.com)

    I have used it once and getting the pour right on it is a bit of trick and man oh man do the handles get hot but it seems to work once you get the hang of it. I haven't mic'd any of the rounds I have made from it yet to see what size they end up being after cooling though.
    I wrote the review of that mould here on the bulletin board a few months ago. If you make longer handles it solves many issues. It solves the handles getting nuclear hot, and it made it easier to hold the mould shut so there is no issue with flashing between the two halves of the mould. A buddy made my handles when he borrowed my mould out of some hardwood of some kind he had laying around. They're about twice the length and work great.

    When I mic'd the balls it dropped, each cavity was between .6795 and .6805. Half a thou each direction isn't bad, considering we're working with a big aluminum mould. It does take a little getting used to, since it's so long and oddly shaped, but combine the gang mould and a bottom pour pot and I can crank out all the round I need for a season in about 40 minutes. Then I need to trim the sprues, which is really my only big complaint about it!
    John Westenberger
    Co. B. 1st PA Cav.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by PapaRob View Post
    Thats because as they cool they shrink a little right?
    Yup. Most mold makers try to tell you the size of the finished lead bullet.

    Steve
    Steve Sheldon
    Commander
    4th Louisiana Delta Rifles
    NRA Certified Muzzleloading Instructor

  5. #15
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    I have a Lyman .678. I would go for a .680 four gang with sprue cutter.
    R B Hansen
    20th Georgia Vol

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