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Thread: .69 smoothbore mold avalibility

  1. #1
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    .69 smoothbore mold avalibility

    I am at the deep south shoot at Brierfield State Park this weekend. Several guys were telling me about having trouble finding a proper mold for their 69 smoothbore. I?m thinking about having a run of Molds made. What is a consensus on the exact caliber they should be made in? I?ve heard 678, 680, and 682.

    Any suggestions?


    Thanks!
    Mark Hubbs,

    Eras Gone Bullet Molds www.erasgonebullets.com

    Visit my history/archaeology blog at: www.erasgone.blogspot.com

  2. #2
    bobanderson is offline
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    Quote Originally Posted by threepdr View Post
    What is a consensus on the exact caliber they should be made in? I?ve heard 678, 680, and 682.

    Any suggestions?


    Thanks!
    Consensus in the N-SSA? That's like a law in Congress where everyone votes their approval. Rare, and usually wrong.

    This next is hearsay evidence, not gospel but what I've gleaned from my 10 or so years playing this game. Your results may vary.

    Caliber is dependent on bore size. Whoever worked this out decided that 12 thousandths (.012") under bore size is best. For original 69 caliber bores, that means .678, which has proven to be an extremely popular caliber.
    Because barrel reamers are not cheap, and .690 is not a standard size, barrel liners are made in the nearest fractional equivalent, 11/16" or .687.
    For those guns, .675 is a great choice.

    Of course, the ball as it drops from the mould can be a few thousandths different based on the hardness of your lead. Hard lead casts larger than pure by 1 to 2 thou or so.

    My Elka ball is .672 diameter. Hard cast, rolled between 2 farriers files and gauged by dropping them through a 6" piece of Hoyt liner, measuring .687. I use this ball in an H&P and a 30" Macon conversion, both with Hoyt produced bores.

    Thank you for your efforts to support the N-SSA
    Bob Anderson
    Ordnance Sergeant
    Company C, 1st Michigan Volunteer Infantry
    Small Arms Committee

    "I won't be wronged. I won't be insulted. I won't be laid a hand on.
    I don't do these things to other people, and I require the same from them."
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  3. #3
    John Bly is offline
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    Most people are looking for .678" molds. The balls can be enlarged to fit oversize bores by rolling between rasps. Some original barrels are well over .690" diameter and may require a larger ball. Whatever you do it won't make everyone happy. Go for it.

  4. #4
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    I'll buy one of whatever you come up with. jh

  5. #5
    PapaRob is offline Banned
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    Mark,

    I will also probably get what ever you come up with. But a suggestion...make it more than a 1 cavity mold if you can.

    Rob

  6. #6
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    I have a real oddball bore size on my H&P 1816, .684 is the bore size, so I use a .672 Ball, got it from Moose when he did roundballs.
    Last edited by FirinFlatTop; 04-25-2023 at 05:40 PM.
    Rick G. Cameron Jr.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by PapaRob View Post
    Mark,

    I will also probably get what ever you come up with. But a suggestion...make it more than a 1 cavity mold if you can.

    Rob
    I agree with Rob. I cast with a dual cavity aluminum mold from a Russian company, makes quick work of smoothbore balls. It uses a plate that cuts similar to Lee molds and leaves very little sprue.

    If Eras Gone comes up with one similar i'd be a buyer, and .678 would be my vote on size.

  8. #8
    PoorJack is offline
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    .685 for me.
    "A man can never have too much red wine, too many books, or too much ammunition"
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  9. #9
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    DagNabit! Have to bow out

    just ordered mine from these folks:

    https://www.ballmoulds.com/product/ball-mould-medium/

  10. #10
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    Mark, if you get a run made with a sprue cutter in .680, I'd be picking one up immediately. I have a .680 4 gang roundball mould without sprue cutter that works very well, but I'd like it more if it had a sprue cutter.
    John Westenberger
    Co. B. 1st PA Cav.

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