Too Light of a trigger - now what?

[Wrekreation]

I would need to dig mine out but looks like the spring contact on the sear is too close to the rotation point.

Here are pictures of the "original" spring on the left or first photo and the reproduction on the right or second photo. The original spring is very close to the rotation point and the reproduction spring is a pinch farther away from the rotation point. There is no significant difference in the trigger pull using a Wheeler digital trigger pull gauge.

[Carolina Reb]

John Bly has the answer. It's not the sear spring but the angle of the sear face where it engages the tumbler.

[Wrekreation]

John Bly has the answer. It's not the sear spring but the angle of the sear face where it engages the tumbler.

If this is the optimal angle (David France article "Modifying Musket & Carbine Locks for NSSA Competition"), I don't see the difference between this any my lock.

[Carolina Reb]

Here's a shot of how the sear angle ought to be. It looks like your tumbler is OK, but the nose of the sear is off. The angle of the face should line up with the angle to the axis of the tumbler pivot (the yellow cross and line). The lock in this picture lets off just over 4 pounds, with the original sear spring. Sorry the picture isn't better, I needed three hands and only have two.

[John Bly]

It looks like the nose of the sear is the wrong angle. It should more closely match the angle of the sear notch on the tumbler. Also check that the sear spring is holding the sear in position. As stated it might be that the nose of the spring is binding and not applying the proper force to the sear.

[Wrekreation]

Here's a shot of how the sear angle ought to be. It looks like your tumbler is OK, but the nose of the sear is off. The angle of the face should line up with the angle to the axis of the tumbler pivot (the yellow cross and line). The lock in this picture lets off just over 4 pounds, with the original sear spring. Sorry the picture isn't better, I needed three hands and only have two.

Thanks for the education and the pictures!!

[Wrekreation]

It looks like the nose of the sear is the wrong angle. It should more closely match the angle of the sear notch on the tumbler. Also check that the sear spring is holding the sear in position. As stated it might be that the nose of the spring is binding and not applying the proper force to the sear.

Thanks for the tips. It seems that the smallest change makes a difference.

[John Bly]

Thanks for the tips. It seems that the smallest change makes a difference.

This is certainly true when tuning trigger pull. Once in a while one comes right in but other times they will drive you nuts trying to get it right.

[Bruce Cobb 1723V]

You can put some magic marker on both of the mating surfaces to see if they have full contact. You will see any drag that way. Sometimes you file it with a slight angle and then you don't get the full contact you needed.

[Wrekreation]

You can put some magic marker on both of the mating surfaces to see if they have full contact. You will see any drag that way. Sometimes you file it with a slight angle and then you don't get the full contact you needed.

I didn't think of that, I have some non-drying prussia blue I could use. Thanks!