Duplicating original blueing

[keweenaw]

Good evening all,

Looking to duplicate original CW style bluing as found on Enfield's and others of the period. In my travels and seeing many near mint guns, the bluing was actually a blue shade (hence the name?). Modern repro's like Pedersoli and even Parker Hale's were black in color.

My reason is I have an old Armi SPort Enfield that has no finish on it, and I would like to duplicate the original bluing. Are there modern souces that will provide this color? I do not need any elaborate concoctions, but just something I can apply. This is not going to be a pristine restoration, just some experimenting and rmake this look a bit like it came from England.

Thanks

[John Bly]

Rust bluing is the way to get that blue color. It is a time consuming process involving rusting the parts then boiling in water, carding off the loose coating and repeating the process until you get the desired color. This usually takes from 4 to 6 or more times thru the process. It is a pleasing and durable blue that is appropriate for older firearms.

[Kevin Tinny]

Hello, Keweenaw:

IF the finish is rust-blue or "Belgian" blue:

Beyond being more traditional via less gloss, cold blue can be applied directly over exiting hot blued and even Parkerized finishes if no surface repairs are needed. Also, it creates a uniform coloration on parts of varying alloy and hardness. Won't work on stainless or non-ferrous metals.

Like most seemingly simple things, the experience based "then you just gotta" aspects are where learners get stuck. My suggestion is get it done professionally.

Brownell's has the bluing solution and technical info, but a long tank and heating apparatus for water boiling are needed. Probably not cost justified.

I have done lots of it, but no longer. Gregg Turnbull, at Turnbull Restorations does it. So does Larry Romano at Romano Rifle Company in Pennellville, NY. Another is Classic Colors, LLC in Idaho, probably the fastest turn around.

Might want to ask for more bluing solution coats for deeper, more durable finish.

The surface prep, degreasing, finish application, solution activation TIME and soft iron wire brush "carding" have technical quirks that are significant. It is easy with CLEAN equipment, but contamination of them from oil, etc can cause issues. EVERYTHING must be oil free and some items, such as wire brushes come oiled.
Removing the oil completely can he a challenge. I boiled mine in lye water using distilled water. Distilled for boiling and operating room clean water tank. Hard learned lessons. Sights have to be removed or artfully worked around.

Some tips not in most literature:
The surface polish can be too smooth. I did not go finer than 400 grit wet or dry. Some don't go past 280 grit. A high gloss surface seems to impart a less deep blue color, almost transparent. The steel alloy matters and more coats can be needed. Applying more coats until there is barely any brown rust often creates a deeper and more durable finish. I usually applied as many as 12 coats. Do not let the solution sit too long or it will pit. I let it sit until brown rust barely appeared and did more coats for a smoother finish. Takes skill and PATIENCE. Ambient humidity influences this. Practice on something that can be boiled on your stove. The cotton FABRIC swabs must be degreased to avoid issues.
Sorry for all this. Please make the calls and report here on results. Thanks.
All the best,
Kevin Tinny