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Thread: Maynard .35 Percussion - Problem with loose barrel

  1. #1
    schwarzpulver is offline
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    Maynard .35 Percussion - Problem with loose barrel

    Hello in the forum round.
    my name is Pierre, I come from Germany and have recently had a nice Maynard 1865 percussion carbine in .35 caliber with 26 "barrel. The barrel is very good inside without rust.
    Now, however, I have a problem and the barrel can be moved axially when the lever is in the rest position. The lever is also quite loose - I can unlock it very easily. When I hold the Maynard level and tap the frame with the heel of my hand, the lever opens and the barrel tilts.
    If I now insert a cartridge and the system closes, the barrel is firm and the lever also has a certain resistance when opening. I once had a Maynard .50 second model because everything was tight without a cartridge in the warehouse.
    Now I put a piece of paper between the frame and barrel for the test and so the action is pretty tight but that's not a solution. Has anyone of you had the same problem and maybe a solution for me? Or an approach?
    I would be happy - best regards
    Pierre

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    John Bly is offline
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    Pierre, the problem is most likely worn or bent link screws, the two screws that hold the link in the barrel and lever. The axial movement is from the slotted front pivot hole. It is slotted to ensure that the lockup is with the lugs under the barrel and that there is no stress on the pivot screw upon firing. The thickness of the paper to get it to lock up properly is an indicator of how much wear is present. I make new screws but unfortunately I can't ship outside of the US because of the ITAR treaty. You can possibly get them made there. The closest metric thread is a 5mmx1mm but the screws are a Whitworth style of thread. 5mm is a bit too large, the screws need to be 4.75mm diameter. Good luck to you.

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    efritz is offline
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    In the model 1 Maynard carbine if you remove the barrel there is a very large slotted screw. That adjusts the lock up tightness. If it don?t turn there?s a lock screw accessed on the underside to loosen the larger slotted screw. Hope that works and is what you were talking about. Otherwise Mr. Bly is correct.
    When in doubt, mumble, when in trouble, delegate.

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    schwarzpulver is offline
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    Maynard .35 Percussion - Problem with loose barrel

    Quote Originally Posted by John Bly View Post
    Pierre, the problem is most likely worn or bent link screws, the two screws that hold the link in the barrel and lever. The axial movement is from the slotted front pivot hole. It is slotted to ensure that the lockup is with the lugs under the barrel and that there is no stress on the pivot screw upon firing. The thickness of the paper to get it to lock up properly is an indicator of how much wear is present. I make new screws but unfortunately I can't ship outside of the US because of the ITAR treaty. You can possibly get them made there. The closest metric thread is a 5mmx1mm but the screws are a Whitworth style of thread. 5mm is a bit too large, the screws need to be 4.75mm diameter. Good luck to you.

    Hello John, thanks for the quick reply, yes I also suspected the screws. The screw from the link to the barrel is 4.75mm and the screw from the link to the lever cannot be loosened, but it is passable so no play across the screw. I believe that the link itself may have been edited. The pin for attaching the lever to the frame (for me is a pin with a small groove and curved head which swings into a V groove on an external screw. (Sport version) For this pin there is also a threaded hole in the frame for a very small screw. This screw should hold the pin so that it does not fall out when changing the barrel. Unfortunately, this screw is missing.

    I have now bent the link a little so that the distance between the screw holes is shortened (was quite a fumbling until I had the right size) and now it is a bit tighter.
    I hope it lasts and maybe you can get something from the States again.
    I wanted brass sleeves .35 from ssfirearms and unfortunately they cannot deliver to Germany either. Last year it was still possible.
    A real shame.

    First of all, thank you for the helpful information (could also use the exact cartridge dimensions if I have to turn it myself)
    My cartridge chamber is 10.23mm at the back and 10.13mm and 38.56mm long at the front - is that true?

    A model 1 would be nice but is too expensive for me.

    Thank you very much and see you soon
    Pierre

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    schwarzpulver is offline
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    Quote Originally Posted by efritz View Post
    In the model 1 Maynard carbine if you remove the barrel there is a very large slotted screw. That adjusts the lock up tightness. If it don?t turn there?s a lock screw accessed on the underside to loosen the larger slotted screw. Hope that works and is what you were talking about. Otherwise Mr. Bly is correct.
    Hello efritz,

    a Model 1 would be very nice but is to expensive for me.
    thanks and regards
    Pierre

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    John Bly is offline
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    Your chamber dimensions sound correct to me. The correct bullet diameter should be 9.35mm. That little screw that holds the takedown pin in place is the most time consuming and problematic screw on a Maynard. Getting the angled notch in the correct place and proper depth to hold the pin takes a lot of trial fitting and filing. The thread size is most likely a #4-40 or 2.85mm x .64mm pitch.

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    schwarzpulver is offline
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Bly View Post
    Your chamber dimensions sound correct to me. The correct bullet diameter should be 9.35mm. That little screw that holds the takedown pin in place is the most time consuming and problematic screw on a Maynard. Getting the angled notch in the correct place and proper depth to hold the pin takes a lot of trial fitting and filing. The thread size is most likely a #4-40 or 2.85mm x .64mm pitch.
    Nice that the chamber fits as far. I have now made an impression of the barrel at the mouth with Cerrosafe and measured 9.22 to 9.23mm on the trains. If I add 0.025mm then I get 9.255mm. That would be a tenth less than the 9.35mm.
    I'll try to make the mini screw but if that works - let's see. Somehow the screw makes sense but when I turn the pin in the closed position this screw has no groove in the pin with lever. I have never seen the screw on any Maynards photo on the web.
    Best regards
    Pierre

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    schwarzpulver is offline
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Bly View Post
    Your chamber dimensions sound correct to me. The correct bullet diameter should be 9.35mm. That little screw that holds the takedown pin in place is the most time consuming and problematic screw on a Maynard. Getting the angled notch in the correct place and proper depth to hold the pin takes a lot of trial fitting and filing. The thread size is most likely a #4-40 or 2.85mm x .64mm pitch.
    I have another question. Since there are no more brass sleeves going over the pond, I would like to have them made here. This is not a problem so far, however, I wonder what diameter the sleeves should have or how much smaller the diameter to the cartridge chamber should be. Are 0.02 - 0.03mm sufficient? And can I take brass MS58 (CUZN39Pb3) alloy?
    Would appreciate a hint.

  9. #9
    Kevin Tinny is offline
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    Hello, Pierre:

    I am not a metallurgist. Here is some of what others have shared about the brass material for cartridge cases:

    Modern high pressure, 60,000PSI cases are DRAWN, not turned, in drawing dies using cups punched from SHEET brass. The brass sheet is usually C260 "cartridge brass" alloy.

    The temper or hardness of the brass seems to matter.

    Most custom TURNED cases are machined from rod/bar stock that, while extruded, rolled and even forged, does NOT have the grain orientation aligned for the stress vectors during firing.

    This is not an issue with most black powder, 40,000PSI machine TURNED cases because the commonly used alloys are sufficiently strong when black powder is used AND the cases are properly annealed at 1000F.

    I have spoken with a few of our members who did not anneal after every 3rd to 5th use and their cases had splitting issues. I anneal and have no splits. Guess it does help.

    Rocky Mountain Cartridge in Cody, Wyoming has used "C360 IN HALF-HARD TEMPER" for years with few issues IF the dimensions are correct to MATCH the chamber and annealing is performed. Kody at RMC shared the alloy is 61.5% copper, 35.5% zinc and 3% lead. Their cases are annealed. The prior long term owner of RMC, Dave Casey, told a friend that he could make 60,000PSI cases, but "shooters are cheap and won't pay the extra cost".

    Roberson Cartridge Co in Amarillo, Texas uses more expensive machine turned "C272" alloy bar stock which will work with higher pressure cartridges. Theirs are also annealed. Their cases are approximately twice as expensive as RMC's.

    I have used cases from both RMC and Roberson with no issues providing the dimensions are proper and they are salt bath annealed per the BALLISTIC RECREATIONS method.

    You may wish to view their websites. Roberson's has more technical information. Ballistic Recreations in Canada knows what they are talking about. Roberson strongly supports annealing because "all brass work hardens, even if firing/loading expansion is minimal".

    One more thing involves dimensions. The case should match chamber dimensions, including taper so that there is .002" of clearance. Also, the case mouth ID should be the same as the sized bullet. Do not press a larger diameter bullet into an undersized mouth or the case will often reduce the essential bullet diameter.

    Before arranging custom machined cases, try pushing a reasonably tight, soft alloy bullet through the bore from the chamber end to feel for loose spots or progressive looseness from breech to muzzle. If you find any, stop and please get back to us.

    Edited for typo's

    All the best,
    Kevin Tinny
    Last edited by Kevin Tinny; 4 Weeks Ago at 08:35 AM.

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    John Bly is offline
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    Kevin is right concerning the brass used for percussion Maynard cases. Free machining C360 is normally used. He gave you the composition so you can cross reference to European standards. The cases should be .04-.05mm smaller than the chamber. The stock to start with should be 20 mm diameter for the correct diameter head on the brass so you can grasp it to extract it from the chamber. Keep asking questions and we'll try to help you as much as we can.

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