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Thread: Synthetic lube formula

  1. #1
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    Synthetic lube formula

    HI all, I shoot an Enfield with a Dan Whitacre barrel. I'm looking for a formula using a synthetic (Mobil #1?), any suggestions?

    Best regards,

    Dennis

  2. #2
    geezmo is offline
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    Dennis,

    This has been discussed here before, maybe several times. This may be a link you're looking for: https://www.n-ssa.net/vbforum/showth...light=capnball

    Barry S.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by geezmo View Post
    Dennis,

    This has been discussed here before, maybe several times. This may be a link you're looking for: https://www.n-ssa.net/vbforum/showth...light=capnball

    Barry S.

    Thanks! Helpful!

    Dennis

  4. #4
    jonk is offline
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    The responses in that thread are 6 years old so I will touch base again and just say that you want to use Mobil 1 synthetic oil. The viscosity doesn't seem to matter. Start at 60/40 (more wax). Add a little more oil for over revolver balls or cool weather and a little more wax for boiling hot summer weather.

  5. #5
    Greg Ogdan 110th OVI is offline
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    Or you could just use MCM or one of the commercial lubes and be done with it. That has worked for me for 16 years,

    Greg

  6. #6
    jonk is offline
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    Greg is right of course. I make my own lube simply because I got 50 pounds of Beeswax cheap, the Mobil 1 is easy to make, and shoots better for me than wax and crisco.

  7. #7
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    What is your recipe, Jonk?

    Steve
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  8. #8
    jonk is offline
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maillemaker View Post
    What is your recipe, Jonk?

    Steve
    I noted the proportions above but perhaps I should elaborate a bit.

    The wax doesn't have to be super filtered, but shouldn't have any chunks in it.

    Melt 1 cup of beeswax in a double boiler or at about 200 in the oven. I should say, keep adding small chunks until you have a cup of molten wax.

    Add 7/8 cup of mobil 1 synthetic oil. I don't think the viscosity matters. I have always used 5W30 as it is what I use in my car too. Surely other brands of synthetic oil would do just as well. I also sometimes like to throw a little carnuba wax in if I have it but it's no biggie for performance; it just seems to keep the wax from getting as runny on hot days.

    Now this will cause it all to flash harden (unless you pre-heat the oil too, which you could I am sure). But given that the next step is to re-melt it anyhow, let harden, and repeat to make sure everything is thoroughly mixed, I don't see the need. Something bout the molecular structure in the wax needs to be melted a few times to really mix with the oil.

    Reverse the proportions for revolver ball sealer or for shooting in winter.

    With any lube, the wax, while it does have some light lubricating properties itself, is essentially a carrier to keep the oil in place on the minie grooves. The thing that appeals to me about this lube in principle is that motor oil is specifically engineered for high pressure metal to metal high temperature applications.

    Now, I DO find it runs out in my smith near the muzzle after 10-15 rounds and leaves an inch or so of fouling , but that has more to do with the bullet I am runnign than anything. Works great in musket or as a SB ball dip lube.

  9. #9
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    Thanks, I missed your previous post. 60:40 Wax:Oil or thereabouts.

    Steve
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    Guys in our unit mostly use a dab of white lithium grease under a cartridge round - either in a grease 'cup' formed of a bit of aluminum foil formed around an appropriately sized dowel, or on top of a wad punched from the styrofoam you buy meat packed in at the supermarket. Sure, there is still the lube of choice in the bullet grooves (and some dip the nose), but the lithium vaporizes and keeps the fouling soft enough that the next round 'pushes' (cleans) it out each time. Result? We don't get any accumulation of fouling and the barrels are easy to clean with a patch or two. A spritz of CRC Powerlube (or WD 40) for cleaning works great. If there is room for any 'filler' in the case (whether cream-of-wheat, oatmeal or whatever), the grease cup or wad goes over that to keep the lithium right under the round, which are stored nose-down. Yet white lithium grease doesn't melt like other greases can ... must be 'homogenized' or something. For minies, the lithium goes in the hollow - but only halfway, or it becomes too much of a good thing.

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