Just bought a 1863 and have some questions.

[Hal]

You were probably put on an NSA watch list before you got done typing.

[Nd1887]

Ordered the pin gauges.

[Maillemaker]

In my opinion, the best caps are German RWS Dynamite Nobel. It is all I use in competition.

CCI got sued some years ago and weakened their caps. They used to label them "For Reenactor Use" but then started slapping a label on top of the old label that said "Multipurpose use" or something like that.

The CCI caps are weak and while they will work OK in guns with straight-in fire channels like an Enfield, they do not reliably work in guns with 90-degree fire channels like the Richmond Carbine.

The Scheutzen caps are decent but I've had problems with them going off on the first hammer strike consistently with some guns. I think this is because they are made of steel rather than brass and so they don't deform onto the nipple during a strike as easily as the brass ones do. So I think the Schuetzen caps are more picky about a good nipple fit than brass ones.

Cheapest place to order caps online is probably Back Creek Gun Shop. Cheapest place online to buy powder is probably Powder Inc.

https://blackpowderva.com/
https://powderinc.com/

Steve

[Nd1887]

So the rifle looks nice until you shine a light into the light pitting and it looks like rust is still there should I be worried or is that normal?

[Rob FreemanWBR]

ND1887 - QUESTION for you:

Apologies if I didn't read it in earlier threads - but do you know how to PROPERLY remove the barrel from the stock, so as not to bugger up (and devalue) a piece? There are different ways to remove these sorts of barrels, but there's only ONE way to do it correctly.


Curious to know either way - thx!

Likewise - CONGRATS on acquiring a very nice piece of history!!

[Nd1887]

ND1887 - QUESTION for you:

Apologies if I didn't read it in earlier threads - but do you know how to PROPERLY remove the barrel from the stock, so as not to bugger up (and devalue) a piece? There are different ways to remove these sorts of barrels, but there's only ONE way to do it correctly.


Curious to know either way - thx!

Likewise - CONGRATS on acquiring a very nice piece of history!!

I haven't taken the barrel off yet, but im assuming in involves getting the correct size screw drivers to not bugger up the screws. I think you just take off the tang screw and 3 barrel bands.

[Rob FreemanWBR]

ND1887,

IRT my earlier question re barrel removal from muzzle stuffers...

Yes - having the correct sized screw driver(s) for disassembly is a must, and yes - you have to remove the associate barrel bands and tang screw.

But first - cock the hammer to the safe position & remove the lock. Loosen both lock screws partially. IF needed, a GENTLE tap(s) on both lock screw heads (with your screw driver handle) may be in order to help loosen the lock/start it's exit from the stock itself. DON'T force anything. Once the lock is clearly loose & lock screws removed, the lock itself should pull STRAIGHT out from the stock without resistance.

With the lock removed, remove the ram rod, associated barrel bands, and the tang screw.

Now comes the critical part.

With a table or bench (waist high), put a balled up towel/rag on top of it. What you want to do is to hold the piece where the barrel is facing/horizontal to the deck, with your hand(s) holding the barrel in the stock. With the rifle inverted as so, you want to strike/tap the top of the rifle but on the balled up towel so that the barrel will simply drop STRAIGHT out of the stock's barrel channel. Note - don't grip the length of piece so tightly that the barrel won't fall out. You do want a "controlled drop", of the barrel, falling out of the stock's barrel channel as a result of the kinetics from bumping/striking the balled up towel. So, simultaneously strike the flat surface/balled up towel and be positioned/ready to capture (grab) the now freed barrel without dropping everything (barrel & stock) onto the floor. Before undertaking this step, you may want to play this out in your head before doing it for real.

The key is to let GRAVITY do ALL the work in this particular step of "field stripping" your piece. It may seem like a no brainier to just grasp the muzzle in one hand and the stock end cap in the other and and treat your rifle like a Thanksgiving Wish Bone. But doing this isn't a good thing to do, esp. if you want your stock to remain intact/crack free...


So, after you've safely removed your barrel, all that's left is to remove the cone (nipple). After that, you can turn to in squaring away your weapon!

Hopefully in "gilding the lilly" in this post, I didn't make things as clear as mud. My apologies up front if I've caused confusion. Pls don't hesitate to ask for clarification/elaboration if needed!

[Nd1887]

Got the pin gauges today, put the .580 and it goes in stiff, I dont have a .581 but I would say .580 is the largest that would fit maybe a .581 .580 fits real tight. So would you guys recommend ordering a .581 just to check?
What size minies should I run? I see track of the wolf has some .580 minies

[MR. GADGET]

Got the pin gauges today, put the .580 and it goes in stiff, I dont have a .581 but I would say .580 is the largest that would fit maybe a .581 .580 fits real tight. So would you guys recommend ordering a .581 just to check?
What size minies should I run? I see track of the wolf has some .580 minies

If it is tight on a 580 you should be good to go.

Trick, get a pc of brass rod like 1/2" and 6 to 10" long. They make brass and copper grounding rods at hardware stores or metal shops will get you soft brass. Saves damage on barrel.
Always add it first to a barrel when using pin sets. If you drop one in it could be the only way to hammer it out. Also remember what you checked was the end of the barrel.
The center may be tighter due to all the loading and cleaning.

I would start with a 577 or 578 first. They will shoot but see what it does. 579 may not load good after 5 or 6 rounds. Just depends on the number of rounds you want to shoot before you brush or clean.

[Maillemaker]

I typically size to what fits the bore. So my Pedersoli P58 will accept the .578 pin, and I size my bullets to .578. .579 does not fit.

I have no problems with loading during competition with 9-12 shots per course of fire.

Even my Whitacre P53 barrel, which takes .576 bullets (.577 will not fit), using the Moose 577-420 Wilkinson, with it's tiny lube groove, will shoot easily 9-12 shots or more without cleaning.

But you might get away with a more under-sized bullet, especially if it expands well.

Steve