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Thread: Front sight

  1. #1
    Shultz is offline
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    Front sight

    I have a First Generation Parker Hale I want to get skirmish ready.
    I have a load developed but the Rifle needs a taller front sight because it shoots extremely high.
    The rules state a dovetail front sight has to be permanently affixed.
    What are my options to affix the sight?
    Are there other options other than a dovetail front sight?
    Thanks for your help

  2. #2
    Muley Gil is offline
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    You can file off the old blade and slot the base, then install a higher blade. I presume you have already found a good load that groups tight and is centered. A dovetailed sight is good in that it can be adjusted for windage before being soldered into place.
    Gil Davis Tercenio
    # 3020V
    34th Battalion, Virginia Cavalry
    Great, great grandson of Cpl Elijah S Davis, Co I, 6th Alabama Inf CSA

  3. #3
    spadegrip is offline
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shultz View Post
    I have a First Generation Parker Hale I want to get skirmish ready.
    I have a load developed but the Rifle needs a taller front sight because it shoots extremely high.
    The rules state a dovetail front sight has to be permanently affixed.
    What are my options to affix the sight?
    Are there other options other than a dovetail front sight?
    Thanks for your help
    I wouldn?t touch the sight. I shoot a first gen. Parker-Hale rifle musket and is shoots dead on at 50 and 100 yards. I shoot 39grs of 1 1/2 Swiss with a .576 495gr bullet-very accurate, and it looks right.

  4. #4
    Shultz is offline
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    Sight

    Thanks for the reply.
    I hadn?t thought about changing the load but it makes sense.
    My load was 41 grains of fff with a Minnie that weighs a little under 400 grains, it grouped decent but was 16? high.
    I have a RCBS bullet mold I think weighs about 500 grains when cast, now I just need to find some 1 1/2 Swiss!
    Thanks for the help

  5. #5
    John Holland is offline Moderator
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    In addition to adjusting the powder charge, have you tried using an extremely fine sight picture?

  6. #6
    Rick R is offline
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    At the risk of being Captain Obvious, work up your load for the best possible group and then don't mess with it. Make the necessary sight changes only after the load work up. You may already be there.

    I shot a PH 2 band for several years. I needed to elevate the sights significantly to offset minimal drop of the Enfield stock and performed the dovetail on the sight base as mentioned.

    My load was 47.5 FF by volume and a Lyman 575602 ball Alox in the grooves.

  7. #7
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    Rick is correct.

    Enfields, due to their long range, ladder rear sights are sighted in a bit differently...

    True - determine CORRECT sizing of your rounds first. Then work up a load that GROUPS tightly.

    With Enfields - 100 is determined first, with rear sight elev set at 2. Paper target is best to capture/determine the group, and then measure the distance from where the group is on paper to where YOU want/need the group to be in relation to the target.

    Of note - with Enfields and their open sights... The front sight blade is NOT to be lined up even with the top of the rear sights SHOULDER. Instead the front sight should resemble a SQUARE, i.e. the same amount of front sight width is all the height which should be exposed in the rear sight NOTCH. This was the same practice of English troops in the 19th Century.

    After any needed front sight adjustments and the piece groups at 100 where you want it to group, then 50 yards can be addressed. With the rear ladder sight dropped to its lowest possible setting on the base, shoot your group at 50. Obtain a TIGHT GROUP at 50 prior to making ANY sight adjustments. By now with 100 yard squared away, windage should NOT be an issue, only elevation for 50 yards. In addressing elevation for 50, measurements from the group on paper can then be used to determine any needed work/adjustments to set proper rear sight elevation - for 50.

    The aformentioned procedures maybe as clear as mud, but its whats been taught to me and it does work for Enfields that is.
    Semper Fi,
    Rob Freeman
    WBR
    Col, USMC (Ret.) '87 - '19

    The quality of a person's life is in direct proportion to their commitment to excellence, regardless of their chosen field of endeavor. - Vince Lombardi

  8. #8
    Shultz is offline
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    Sights

    Thanks for all of the great input from everyone.

    Rob, if I understand you correctly the wide base of the front sight should not be visible in the rear sight at all, only the thin part of the sight is used?
    i like the way you were taught to sight the 100 yard first and then work on the 50 yard next, I probably would have done the opposite.

    I have two different molds to try.
    One is the large RCBS Minnie and the other
    is a Moose old style Minnie.
    What powder and what charge would be a good
    starting point for each?

  9. #9
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    Schultz,

    Correct - you should not be able to see the base of the front sight. In fact the wide base of the rear sight, should make that an impossibility.

    But key is, when sighting in - to look for the SQUARE ONLY for the front sight (height equal to the width of the front sight blade) in the rear sights NOTCH.

    Either mold should work. I've been told, and have used with success the lighter Hodgson round.


    Pure lead, fresh lube, Hodgson round with 45 grains of 3f Goex should be a GOOD starting point when you begin load development. RESULTS MAY VARY
    Semper Fi,
    Rob Freeman
    WBR
    Col, USMC (Ret.) '87 - '19

    The quality of a person's life is in direct proportion to their commitment to excellence, regardless of their chosen field of endeavor. - Vince Lombardi

  10. #10
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    Front Sight

    Since joining the N-SSA a few months ago I have become an expert at silver soldering, first with my Pedersoli Enfield then with my just purchased skirmish-ready Parker Hale I bought at the nationals. Pedersoli shooting 14 inches high, then the PH when I was doing load development the front sight fell off.....

    Couldn't find a local gunsmith that would solder them on, so I just learned, really not that hard. Will dovetail the next bunch though.
    "A ragged rebel flag flies high above it all
    Popping in the wind like an angry cannon ball

    The holes of history are cold and still,
    But they still smell the powder burnin' and they probably always will"

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