You'll find bore variation in nearly all of these guns. Point is for best accuracy, know the dimension and cast bullets accordingly.
"A man can never have too much red wine, too many books, or too much ammunition"
Rudyard Kipling
YadkinValleyRangers@gmail.com
NRA Muzzleloading Instructor
The P-H Naval Rifle has several advantages over most other CW reproductions. For one thing, the 33 inch barrel means you have 6 inches LESS of barrel to push a bullet down (compared with a 3 bander) and 6 inches LESS of barrel from which you have to withdraw the ramrod. This makes loading and shooting faster.
The "down side" is that over the years I have glass bedded several P-H Naval Rifles and in every instance I found that the inletting of the stock in the breech area was that too much wood was removed. For optimum accuracy you will need to have the breech of your barrel glass bedded.
Original Naval Rifles were the first choice of Confederate Sharpshooters if they could not get a Kerr or Whitworth Sniper Rifles. Confederate army tests showed that original Naval Rifles were accurate out to 800-900 yards (when loaded with British made ammunition) compared to 400-500 yards for standard three band Minie Riffles (Springfields, Austrians, etc.)
You need a trigger pull of 3 to 4 pounds. Under N-SSA rules, you cannot go less than 3 pounds.
Have a "dovetailed" front sight put on your rifle. Any gunsmith with a milling machine can do that. With a dovetailed front sight you can adjust your "windage" by tapping the sight left or fight.
You can also file down the height of the front sight to set up a 50 yard "zero" for when the leaf on your rear sight is laid down. Then on the first step, it will be set up for 100 yards..
As for the rear sight, I converted mine into a "Partridge" notch and that makes (for me) picking up a target and shooting much faster.)
For best accuracy have your Tang Screw TIGHT.
Don't know if the OP is still reading this thread or not, but the P-H rifle is my skirmish gun of choice, so bumping it up is a good thing IMNSHO.
"Have a 'dovetailed' front sight put on your rifle. Any gunsmith with a milling machine can do that. With a dovetailed front sight you can adjust your "windage" by tapping the sight left or fight."
Most of us know that once the front sight is in the correct position, it must be secured in place, such as soldering. Young skirmishers may not be aware of this.
Gil Davis Tercenio
# 3020V
34th Battalion, Virginia Cavalry
Great, great grandson of Cpl Elijah S Davis, Co I, 6th Alabama Inf CSA
Dear Muley Gill.
.ight base
Yes, you are right. After the front sight is "Zeroed" you can run some soft solder under the sight/barrel joint
Another trick....flip the front sight, grab the blade with the vice jaws in with the bottom up. drill a shallow hole in the bottom of the sight
Then heat up the hole in the sight and drop a drop of soft folder in the hole.
Use a file to flatten the solder into he hole with the bottom of the sight
now
Install the front sight in the "dovetail" on the barrel.
Remember, when you want want to change your windage you have to tap it in the opposite direction to change your windage
Once your wind age is "Zeroed", then heat your front sight until the solder in the hole melts and you are now 100% N-SSA legal.
You can obtain a suitable front sight from S & S Firearms.
They are good people to do business with
https://www.ssfirearms.com/proddetai...58S148A&cat=87
Dan Whitacre sells replacement front sights that are dovetailed and come with the solder filled hole already done.
Dear John:
THANKS for the information, I didn't know Danny did front sight.
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