Hallo!
Nothing in SRS.
#8628 went to Company "B," 2nd W VA Cav.
#10,665 started a run for the 3rd MD Cav.
Curt
Hallo!
Nothing in SRS.
#8628 went to Company "B," 2nd W VA Cav.
#10,665 started a run for the 3rd MD Cav.
Curt
Curt Schmidt
Formerly 17 years a Sherman's Bodyguard
Married to a descendant of Senator John Sherman's wife
Let's see if this posts:
My bore has .504" LAND and .515" - .516" GROOVE diameters with NO taper. This should be very close, if not identical to yours.
OTHER Smiths have different bore and chamber dim's for foil vs rubber ctg's, etc.
The John Bly shortened Lyman 515141 weighs around 370 grains. These blocks have been cut by Lyman over the years with different cherries that create variations in ogive and front driving band "rifling contact when loaded". The bullet must touch the rifling, slightly.
I also have a Moose - Rapine copy 515385 that has the front driving band sticking .090" out of the case. This over engraves and the action closes too hard. But it shoots, too. Could deepen the shoulder in some cases for more tests, after May Natl's.
My custom, Galahon STAINLESS cases are 1.409" OVERALL "OAL".
The main body OD is .659" and the mouth ID is .5155". These are unavailable now.
You can buy a couple BRASS ones and test dimensions and OAL. Add Scotch tape layers to backside until resistance on closing. Back off that excessive OAL one tape thickness.
Ideally the bullet should be between .001" to .0015" LARGER than groove OD, but mine at .515" fit easily into the case AND shoot very nice groups, so .... I guess the pure lead upsets sufficiently. Trying to press an oversized OD bullet of, say .517", into a .5155" mouth only sizes it BACK to mouth ID. Nothing gained. Charlie Hahn IS enlarging mouths to .517" on a few of my SS ones for tests with a Bly-Lyman that casts to .517". Hoping for these in May.
My wad punch is an arch version from Osborne Leather Tools, part number:
No. 149MM- Millimeter Arch Punches 13MM #01226.
Trigger pull was 9+#, stock springs and a bear to cock. Oh that poor nipple cone!
The mainspring can be replaced with a Yeck, very scarce now or a Galahon from S and S Guns in Glendale, NY. I have not tried the Galahon, which requires a bit of cleanup in the fingers area. If you have an original mainspring and nipple, best to pull and save them. Bruce Cobb told me what mint, original Smith nipples now cost. Shiver! The Yeck together with a "HOOD" coil trigger spring from Lodgewood, in place of the "gull" one immediately reduced pull, unlubed, to 3# 5oz.
As David shared: Anytime you change springs you will usually ALTER TRIGGER PULL. You can gently bend ONLY the short angled section of the coil version that points AGAINST the trigger for ounces of change. Do NOT bend the ARM SECTION extending from the coil or it can bear on the tumbler during full cock and INCREASE pull weight! Drove me crazy til I saw it with sideplate removed.
Warning: Expect some fiddling to reattach/reposition that stirrup to the mainspring hooks. Some thick grease on it helps keep it from swinging too fast. May need a flashlight and dental pick to guide it. I can catch it on the first few trys or take a half hour. Don't get frustrated.
Moose and Rapine "515" 365 and 385 grain Smith bullets and two variations of the Bly-Lyman 515141, with slightly different diameters and driving band profiles, ALL shot with NO tipping in the 62" twist at 50 and 100 with charges of GOEX and Swiss 2F and 3F ranging between 25 grains and 37 grains. This bore and twist eats everything! If yours tip, suspect the muzzle crown and have Bly inspect it.
Easy to fix!
That business of establishing YOUR natural aiming point, even at the bench is critical. Put pressure on the rifle and shots will deflect away,from the resistance. Try to have your hand between the forend and rest. Again, foot position remaining correct and unchanged really matters, offhand!
Way too many try to hold through more than six seconds of aiming, even on a bench, as they struggle to control their increasing wobble area and rush the trigger. USUALLY GET A MISS. Start over with a few breaths in between!
Slow hits better than fast misses. Hmmmmm.
The original nipple had a .055" flash hole and the replacement Berryllium-Copper "AMPCO" alloy ones, which I prefer for strength and erosion life, have around .028", which has been perfect. Be sure your nipple has four threads of engagement and a rounded bottom. The original and correct replacement are both .704" from top of cone to bottom of curved tip. Distance from the bottom of the bearing ring shoulder that hits the bolster to the bottom of the threaded and rounded dome is .238" - .240". Never use a nipple that doesn't bottom and bear firmly on the shoulder ring below the four facets.
Dissassembly of the action can cause issues. With the stock, trigger guard and mainspring removed and disconnected from the stirrup, now remove the sling bar.
Try to resist the temptation to pull the knuckle screw. It takes a pro!
Float high grade oil into it, instead. That screw is a super tight fit.
Bugger it and you won't sleep. If must, get it to BLY!
The key is that the action SIDEPLATE is blind pinned in place. DO NOT PRY ON IT. Instead remove the long screw running from the sideplate to the right side of the receiver and hold the plate firmly with one hand and VERY lightly tap on the hammer screw head to PUSH the opposite side (plate) OFF of the pins. Watch closely to PREVENT THE PLATE FROM FALLING AND PUTTING A NASTY NICK ON AN EDGE. PUT IT WELL AWAY FROM YOUR WORK WHERE IT CANNOT FALL, ETC.
If your flash channel is not buggered or corroded, cap FLASH should keep it clear. Try NOT to put water, oil, etc in it. I clear the line by snapping three caps and have found no fouling issues needing further cleaning. Leave that cleanout screw alone unless problems. If any, get w Bly, FIRST.
If you want a couple of my SS cases and a few lubed Bly bullets, text your mailing address to me at 305-299-8941.
Again, all this and more represents the great sharing spirit of our N-SSA members including Lou Ruggerio, Bruce Cobb, Bob Gorsky, John Bly, Tom Nixon, John Dewald, David at Lodgewood, Larry Romano, Phil at S&S, Charlie Hahn and Morgan for sure. Smiles.
Good shooting,
Kevin
Last edited by Kevin Tinny; 04-14-2018 at 03:22 PM.
Thanks, 2horses:
Stuff will be mailed to your home on Monday. Answered your text.
My dropped posts workaround, now, is to draft a short few lines and enter it. If it takes, I then re-open for revision, add stuff and save, doing this in steps, if necessary.
That's why so many revisions are shown, plus all entered on phone so lots keyboard typo's to clear.
Thanks,
Kevin Tinny
I'll have some more Smith molds in stock in a couple of weeks. These drop at .518 and are an exact copy of an original Smith bullet
Mark Hubbs,
Eras Gone Bullet Molds www.erasgonebullets.com
Visit my history/archaeology blog at: www.erasgone.blogspot.com
How much for the mold and is it a 1 cavity or more would be better
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mark what kind of groups are you getting withEras bullet?
Lou Lou Lou Ruggiero
Tammany Regt-42nd NYVI
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