Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: 2nd model Maynard disassembly

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Middletown, PA
    Posts
    15
    Region:
    Central Virginia - Virginia and North Carolina

    2nd model Maynard disassembly

    Hey guys.
    I'm looking for some advise on disassembly to clean and lube a 2nd model Maynard. I have no idea how many years mine sat in someone's granddaddy's gun case. Plus I added water on Saturday.
    Any experience out there?
    Thanks..
    Don.
    Cockade Rifles

  2. #2
    John Bly is offline
    Team:
    5th Virginia Volunteer Infantry
    Member
    5109V
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Stephens City, VA
    Posts
    556
    Region:
    Potomac - Virginia, Maryland and Delaware
    Don't take it all the way apart unless you can deal with trying to assemble two springs with one screw that seldom reaches the screw hole. I had to reassemble one this weekend for a fellow who took it apart and could not get it together. To dry it out just remove the butt stock by removing the two screws closest to the rear of the lower tang. Then the stock will pull off. Most people prefer to let the stock dry on a wet firearm by leaving them in place to prevent warpage. The trigger can be removed by taking out the trigger screw. You can then relube the hammer notches from the bottom, lube the trigger and reassemble with no problems. You can remove the front barrel pivot screw and the lever axis screw and remove the barrel and lever as a unit. Reassembly is simple. That should be all that is needed for a wet Maynard.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Middletown, PA
    Posts
    15
    Region:
    Central Virginia - Virginia and North Carolina
    Quote Originally Posted by John Bly View Post
    Don't take it all the way apart unless you can deal with trying to assemble two springs with one screw that seldom reaches the screw hole. I had to reassemble one this weekend for a fellow who took it apart and could not get it together. To dry it out just remove the butt stock by removing the two screws closest to the rear of the lower tang. Then the stock will pull off. Most people prefer to let the stock dry on a wet firearm by leaving them in place to prevent warpage. The trigger can be removed by taking out the trigger screw. You can then relube the hammer notches from the bottom, lube the trigger and reassemble with no problems. You can remove the front barrel pivot screw and the lever axis screw and remove the barrel and lever as a unit. Reassembly is simple. That should be all that is needed for a wet Maynard.
    Thanks John! I will take your advice. Possibly trying to line up screw holes without cross threading had me concerned. I did since find this elsewhere but I'm not going to take it totally apart:



    "To disassemble, remove the butt stock which it held to the tang (upper & lower) by a long screw which enters the lower tang, plus one wood screw. The stock moves rearward and slides off of the two tang pieces.

    Next, remove the 2 leaf springs (one on top of the other) and held to the lower tang by one screw. Do this using a screw driver "bit" which has a "hex" end to fit into a screw driver handle, but instead of the handle, due to space limitations between the two tangs, use a small ring wrench to fit the hex. Clamp the springs to hold the tension and remove the screw, lift out the 2 springs.

    Next, there is a "side plate" on the right side held on with two screws, one is the hammer screw and other is the trigger screw. remove the screws, lift off the side plate to expose the hammer and trigger.

    Next, the bottom tang (also called the trigger guard plate) is held to the frame by 2 screws. Remove the screws and lift off the plate.

    It is really quite simple, but don't loose the main spring stirrup (the rectangular piece that connects the main spring to the hammer)."

    Don..
    Cockade Rifles

  4. #4
    John Bly is offline
    Team:
    5th Virginia Volunteer Infantry
    Member
    5109V
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Stephens City, VA
    Posts
    556
    Region:
    Potomac - Virginia, Maryland and Delaware
    My friend Roger Waite called me to inform me that if you leave the trigger out it makes installation of the two springs much easier. He is correct and that is how I do it. However, if the springs have enough curvature so that the screw is too short to start with just finger pressure on the springs then you need to clamp the springs. Without a proper clamp it gets tricky. Don't tighten the springs fully until the trigger is installed so the trigger spring can center itself on the trigger.

  5. #5
    RaiderANV's Avatar
    RaiderANV is offline
    Team:
    Palmetto Sharpshooters
    Member
    5795V
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Bealeton, Virginny & Texas
    Posts
    2,397
    Region:
    Carolina - North Carolina and South Carolina
    I took my first Maynard (Second model) apart when I was 16. Gave it a good cleaning it didn't need even after 110 years. Figured out real quick it wasn't going back together without a pair of vise grips to ATTEMPT to clamp both springs and lower tang together while lining up that lil hole that short lil screw goes through. Yup......after 20-30 minutes mom called me to dinner.
    While eating pasta and twirling it in my spoon it hit me. So I sprang from the table, grabbed the gun and removed the lower tang. That hole lines up perfectly without pressure. Stick the screw through the springs and start it a turn then stick back in the gun and keep spinning it a couple turns then jus pop it over the trigger and insert the rear tang screw and tighten. Then the front tang screw. What took a long time and many ties now takes a minute.

    Okay.......so I reckon maybe GOD whispered in my ear the solution before I ruined his most favorite carbine! 😇
    Never squat with yer spurs on!!!

    Pat "PJ" Kelly #5795V
    Virginny & Texas
    540-878-8024

    MAYNARDS RULE!! & starr's DROOL!
    Hence the rust. MAYNARDAE LAUS DEO!

  6. #6
    bobanderson is offline
    Team:
    1st Michigan Infantry
    Member
    12291
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Howell, MI
    Posts
    674
    Region:
    Northwest Territory - Michigan, Ohio and Indiana
    Quote Originally Posted by RaiderANV View Post
    Okay.......so I reckon maybe GOD whispered in my ear the solution before I ruined his most favorite carbine! 
    I'll give you this, Pat.

    You are CONSISTENT.
    Bob Anderson
    Ordnance Sergeant
    Company C, 1st Michigan Volunteer Infantry
    Small Arms Committee

    "I won't be wronged. I won't be insulted. I won't be laid a hand on.
    I don't do these things to other people, and I require the same from them."
    - John Wayne in "The Shootist", 1976

Similar Threads

  1. 2nd Model Maynard
    By Bob Seng, 10979 in forum Wanted/For Sale Items
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 09-05-2016, 11:20 PM
  2. Sharps Carbine disassembly and Cleaning
    By Michael Bodner in forum Shooting Techs, Tips, & Tricks
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 11-03-2015, 07:46 AM
  3. Maynard Model. I
    By Jud96 in forum Civil War Small Arms
    Replies: 24
    Last Post: 09-24-2013, 09:46 PM
  4. 2nd model maynard
    By kowdok in forum Wanted/For Sale Items
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 08-03-2013, 07:58 PM
  5. Spencer (orig) disassembly questions
    By John Lahman 11013 in forum Shooting Techs, Tips, & Tricks
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 02-21-2011, 03:19 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •