Magma Master Caster

[rflmskt]

I just purchased a Magma Master Caster, and am looking for someone who can modify some Lyman and RCBS hollow base Minie molds to use with it. Magma will convert existing molds, but will not work on blocks for hollow base bullets. They referred me to Hollow Point Bullet Mold Service, but they will only do captive core pin conversions, not the machining to convert the blocks for use with a Master Caster.

I can get my round ball and solid base carbine molds done by Magma, but I know several skirmishers are using Master Casters for hollow base bullets as well. I don't have the equipment to machine them myself.

John Dam, 5597
1st MI Vol. Inf.

[stevierayvaughn]

southron will probably chime in here shortly. I know he has had some luck casting hollow base bullets. I am going to try wilkinsons in my 54 cal Mississippi.

Best of luck. Magma makes good stuff.

Steve Vaughn

[Southron Sr.]

I purchased my first Magma Master Caster back in the early 1980's. When I did so, I sent them a Lyman 575213 Minie Ball mould and they modified it to fit and work on my Master Caster. Why they no longer do that "Mod" work on Minie Ball moulds, I don't understand.

RULE # 1 Plan on using iron or steel moulds. I set up a Rapine ALUMINUM MOULD for my Master Caster and it literally "ate the aluminum mould alive" after a couple thousand of rounds were cast.

Here is how you do the modification work on say, a Hodgdon 405 Grain Skirmisher Minie Ball Mould.

[1] You will need to order some Magma Engineering Sprue Plates if you don't have any. I would recommend you order a half-dozen single cavity mould Sprue Plates and a half-dozen double cavity mould Sprue Plates. This is so, in the future, when you acquire more moulds you will have Magma Engineering Sprue Plates already on hand to use for setting setting your new moulds up to work on your Master Caster.

[2] Remove the factory Sprue Plate that comes on your mould. Get to a Drill Press and use a 1/4" metal drill to drill out the Sprue Plate Screw Hole ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE BOTTOM OF THE MOULD BLOCK. If you have never drilled into a mould block before, you will be surprised as to how "Soft" the metal is if it is one of those made out of "Mehanite Iron.".

[3] Then head down to your local, friendly hardware store. Go to the "Nuts and Bolts" section of the store. I recommend you get maybe a Grade 4 or 6 Stainless Steel 1/4" bolt and TWO Stainless Steel Nuts for the bolt. WHAT YOU WANT IS A BOLT LONG ENOUGH TO GO THROUGH THE SPRUE PLATE, THE MOULD BLOCK AND PROTRUDE THROUGH THE BOTTOM OF THE MOULD BLOCK AN INCH OR SO.

[4] Pick up a couple of Lock Washers and even maybe a Flat Washer also.

[5] Head for the Display Cabinet or Display Box where the hardware store keeps all of their SPRINGS. Pick out a good quality, heavy Spring that will just barely fit on your 1/4" bolt. You want a spring that is longer than you need, so you can cut it to the right length when you get home.
Hint: You can easily cut springs to the right length with the Cut Off blade of your Dremel Tool. I generally get a spring long enough so I can cut off three or four springs off of it for the other mould blocks I set up.

[6] When you get home, assemble the Sprue Plate on the mould block. Place the Magma Sprue Plate on top of the mould block. Then run the bolt through the Sprue Plate and the mould block. Note: you will probably have to drill a hole or use your Dremel Tool to grind out a clearance in the "Wing" Magma supplied for the Left Mould Block. The "Wings" are the rectangular pieces of metal that attache the mould blocks to the Master Caster.

[7] Then cut your Spring to the right length. Slide the spring over the part of the Sprue Bolt that protrudes through the bottom of the Mould Block. Then put on a Nut and compress the spring somewhat. Then put on a Lock Washer and the second nut. Jamb them together so the Lock Washer does its job between the nuts. Believe me, you don't want your nuts unscrewing themselves in a casting session. The spring and nuts will go flying off to parts unknown!

[8]The Hogdon (RCBS) already comes with its own "Floating Base Pin Assembly." About the only modification you have to make to the bottom that is to take a Dremel Tool with a Grinder tip attached and grind down the one edge of the metal strap, next to the Sprue Bolt, that the base plug is mounted on. This is simply to make clearance for the Spure Bolt, spring and nuts.

[9] If you have a Lyman Mould you want to modify to fit on your Master Caster, then you will need someone with a lathe. What you have to do is make up a "Floating Base Pin Assembly" like that that comes on the Hodgdon (RCBS) 405 Grain Minie Ball Mould.

[10] Take the wooden knob and little stake pin off the Lyman Base Pin.

[11] Mount the Base Pin in a Lathe.

[12] Cut off the Base Pin so when the bottom of the pin is flush with the bottom of the mould, the pin will protrude the correct distance into the bullet cavity.

[13] Center drill and thread the bottom of the Base Pin for the screw that will attach the Base Pin to the Bottom Strap.

[14] Make up your own "Bottom Strap" by copying the one found on the Hodgdon (RCBS) 405 Grain Minie Ball Mould.

[15] I found the best metal to use for the "Bottom Strap" was cut out a piece off of an old hand saw blade. This is because the metal strap will flex in an arc every time the mould is opened when you are casting on the Master Caster.

HERE ARE A COUPLE OF OTHER HINTS:

I always keep a 1/2" hand wrench laying on the table next to my Master Caster. This is because you will often have to adjust the machine and that includes loosening and tightening 1/2" Bolts.

I have my Master Caster BOLTED to a sturdy wooden table. THAT TABLE IS BOLTED TO THE WALL. IN other words, I have Zero chance of turning over my Master Caster during a casting session. That sturdy arrangement also prevents the molten lead from slopping in the pot during the session.

I also keep an old hard wood Tomahawk Handle (you can use any similar piece of hardwood) to GENTLY tap the top of the Plunger Assembly when the bottom pour pot wants to drip molten lead. The operative word is "Gently" because remember the heating elements in the walls of the lead pot are red hot and very fragile in that state.

The wooden handle is also handy to close the sprue plate when you need to, gently tap the side of the mould block arm to eject a stubborn bullet from the mould, etc.

During long casting sessions, the socket headed bolt that runs through the wooden handle tends to unscrew. I generally "Loc Tite" it in place and also keep a hex headed wrench handy to tighten IF the Loc Tite fails.

I have rigged up a chain pulley assembly so I can suspend 60 pound lead ingots into the pot for melting purposes.

Just a little TIN in your lead pot from a spool of 50/50 lead solder will make your Minie Balls fill out the mould better and be a tad "shiner." Believe it or not will make your casting sessions go much faster because the Minie Balls will eject easier form the mould.

WELL, THERE YOU HAVE IT.

GOOD LUCK!!!