Temperature gauge for lead??

[William H. Shuey]

Hi Troops:

Can anyone point me to a source for a temperature gauge I can use with my 20 pound lead pot??

Bill Shuey
whshuey@verizon.net

[Muley Gil]

Have you checked Brownells or Midway?

[Kevin Tinny]

Hello:
Go to Rotometals.

When adding metal to restore the level, please remember to let the pot return to the proper temperature. Best to keep it at least half full for faster temp restoration. To avoid heating element stress, don't run the pot dry. As you probably know, be VERY careful to cast WHERE nothing can fall into the molten metal. Dripping water from drinks or objects (fixed ammunition) from nearby shelves seem the most common causes of pot explosions. Vibration from nearby air circulation fans, slamming doors, etc are often the root cause. Anticipate these sorts of dangers. When adding metal, make VERY sure it is bone DRY! Total body and HEAD - FACE coverage is essential. Most experienced casters have learned these tips from reading or worse, first hand mishaps.

By the way, a slight amount of tin added to pure lead vastly improves casting metal quality of flow and fill-out. I've used 80 pure to 1 part TIN or as much as 60 : 1 with no hardness issues related to skirt expansion or sealing with patched balls. The weight difference from the tin is immaterial. Most commonly available pure tin "cries" or crackles from molecular movement when a elongated piece is bent near one's ear. 50 : 50 auto body bar solder will not crackle, but can be used with simple math to constitute the desired alloy. Above all, avoid scrap metal of unknown composition. ANY Bismuth will turn the otherwise freely flowing metal into something resembling grits or Creme of Wheat. Fluxing will NOT remove it. The steel clips on wheel weights are OK during preliminary melting. They float and can be skimmed off. Flux with beeswax.
Regards,
Kevin

[Michael Bodner]

I suggest saving yourself tons of money and buying a Cooper-Atkins Oven thermometer Model 2225-05. It goes to 1000 degrees F

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cooper-Industrial-Flange-Mount-Stem-Thermometer-200-to-1000-degrees-F-Hunting-/141440583459?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20ee840723

$19.99 including shipping.

You'll have to cut off the mounting flange (pretty easy with a delicate hand and a hacksaw).

BUT... Be advised that the length of the instrument is about 6 inches, so it will sit 'low' in most lead pots. I keep mine in throughout the casting process, and keep it tilted to the side. If it 'blocks' the mouth while I'm refilling, I simply move it or pull it (wearing heat-proof gloves, of course)!!

A 'real' lead-pot thermometer 'may be' a little longer, will come with the clip (which you can make) to keep it from falling in, but costs about $50 from Midway....

And OH! If you look at the Midway picture http://www.midwayusa.com/product/595204/lyman-lead-bullet-casting-thermometer it looks suspiciously like the Cooper, especially once you remove the flange....

-Mike

[tackdriver]

Michael, thanks for the info on the Cooper thermometer. I've never used a thermometer in my casting cuz I balked at spending the $40. $20 is reasonable ($17 at Amazon with prime shipping...)

But Im curious as to why you cut off the flange?

[Michael Bodner]

I guess I just got used to my original that didn't have the flange. Plus it definately ends up blocking the entire mouth of the pot.

Personal preference.

-Mike

[jonk]

I never found I needed it. For pure lead casting, I just run the pot at full blast until the sprue starts to take more than 3 seconds to harden, then I back it off a bit. On a Lee pot, that means running at 10, then backing off to 8 or so.

For alloys, run at full blast until the bullets start to frost, then back off; to about 7 for a 50/50 lead/ww mix (which I use in my henry and sharps), or about 6 for a straight up ww mix.

However, if you choose to get a thermometer, I have seen some with guides that clip onto the side of the pot so you can leave it in and not knock it around with the ladle. Only issue there is: you really should be taking the temp reading from the MIDDLE of the pot so as not to get false high temps from being near the bottom/sides where the elements are... so I'm not an advocate of leaving it in the pot.

[gunor]

Try here: http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/index.php?cPath=22&osCsid=ftuk72thhqt99d5g2uqqo1j741

Also a great site for casting: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/cmps_index.php

Geoff in Oregon

[tackdriver]

Michael, thanks for the info on the Cooper thermometer. I've never used a thermometer in my casting cuz I balked at spending the $40. $20 is reasonable ($17 at Amazon with prime shipping...)

But Im curious as to why you cut off the flange?

Note though, if you want a real accurate thermometer this one has an error of +- 20 degrees and you cannot calibrate. I checked mine by putting in boiling water, I'm sure here in Calif water shouldn't boil at 180 degrees! But now I know the amount of the error. Still cheaper than others on the market.