advice/tips for new 1861 Springfield Musket

[tonyvr4]

I just purchased an ArmiSport reproduction 1861 Springfield
Can anyone offer suggestions on cleaning?

Also, the guy at the gunshop suggested I buy a trigger lock. Unfortunately I have not been able to find one that fits properly

I am looking for a bayonet and sling if anyone has one around

Thanks

[snuffy19608]

A trigger lock for a musket? Oh, you're in New Jersey. Never mind. You don't need a trigger lock for a musket, just don't let it sit around loaded. Keep powder and caps separate, in a locked container would be good.

For a bayonet and sling, try any of the vendors, blockade runner,regimental quartermaster, longwood manufacturing, there's more but that will get you started. Others will be along with more I'm sure.

[Curt]

Hallo!

In brief, any of the modern cleaning methods will work, and different lads have their likes and dislikes.

My only comment would be for you to pay added attention to the flash channel when it comes to cleaning. The Italians simplified production and altered the original flash channel from the cone (nipple) through the bolster and into the barrel. As a result, the flash makes a sharp angle, and the nature of the channel leaves it prone to fouling which can then get baked into coke and restrict and then close down the flash flow.

Curt

[tonyvr4]

.......Keep powder and caps separate, in a locked container would be good.



What kind of locked container would you recommend?

Thanks

[tonyvr4]

Hallo!

In brief, any of the modern cleaning methods will work, and different lads have their likes and dislikes.

My only comment would be for you to pay added attention to the flash channel when it comes to cleaning. The Italians simplified production and altered the original flash channel from the cone (nipple) through the bolster and into the barrel. As a result, the flash makes a sharp angle, and the nature of the channel leaves it prone to fouling which can then get baked into coke and restrict and then close down the flash flow.

Curt

Wow, great tip. What should I use to keep the flash channel clear?
Or should I just spend more time on cleaning that area?

[David Disher 12143]

Wow, great tip. What should I use to keep the flash channel clear?
Or should I just spend more time on cleaning that area?

I use a pipe cleaner that has very small metal wires imbedded in it. There is no substitute for sumping your barrel after each use. If you are not familiar with this procedure, it's fairly simple.

Using a section of 1/4" surgical tubing, place one end of the tube on the nipple. and hold up the other end of the tube. Fill the barrel with water, and have a wet patch ready. when the barrel is almost full, insert the cleaning rod and wet patch, and place the other end of tube in a small half full (water) container or bottle. Force the rod down, flushing the water from barrel into container. Then retract the rod (slowly), and continue...watch the tubing, you will see the water darken as the residue is removed.

After a half a dozen or so cycles, remove the tube from the nipple, pour the water out of the barrel, and run 4 or 5 dry patches. Then pull the nipple, and use a dental pick to remove the hardened or built up crud. Then the pipe cleaner.

Use a good grade of protectant (ballistol, etc) in the barrel and run a patch through it to keep rust at bay.

It never hurts to keep a bore scraper at the ready...the leavings can build up on the breech. Maybe once a year pull the breech plug and make sure your breech plug is clean. Doesn't have to be shiny, just free of buildup and flat. If you are ever in fear of a blown skirt, the removal of the plug will confirm this.

Regards,

Ddisher

[tonyvr4]

Great tip. I am going to save that one
I need to get the scraper that you mentioned

Any other cleaning tools I need?

I did buy a cleaning kit with cleaning-rod and brushes

[Michael Bodner]

Just to reiterate what was said earlier in case you missed it: You'll do fine with WATER as you base cleaning fluid. No Hoppe's #9 for black powder shooting: Doesn't work very well.

When done, run an oily patch (Gun oil, 3-in-1 oil, Ballistol, etc, heck, in 10W-40). You can pre-oil with WD-40 (to absorb any remaining water), but do NOT stop there. Proceed to the oily patch after an WD-40.

-Mike

[Curt]

Hallo!

My personal and favorite N-SSA 'formula' was a 50/50 mix of rubbing alcohol and Hoppes 9 Plus (Hoppes 9 is for smokeless aka nitro-cellulose powder only). The rubbing alcohol allowed the wetness to dry and not retain water when cleaning between skirmish events.

For reenacting and living history, in the field, I cleaned with just (hot) water as was the norm for the Civil War and by the manual.

At home, or after a day at the range, I cleaned with hot water a little dish washing detergent.

It is a long and heretical discussion as most lads are sharply divided between Period and Modern cleaning routines some ranging almost as far as sterilization. :)

I hold the theory that like a cast iron pot or fry pan, steel (iron) gets seasoned. If one does not strip out the effects of wax/grease lube from the surface and pocks of the bore, it gets easier and faster to clean over time. After sealing the cone (nipple) and agitating a column of water in the bore a few times and pouring out the black/gray water, I was able to clean with 4-5 patches in about five minutes. Followed by a drying, and light oiling with a oiled patch.
It left a clean bore, save for the gray graphite that gets left from modern graphite coated black powder. And no orange or brown rusting between events.

Ask a hundred lads, and you will likely get 120 opinions on cleaning. :) :)

This is somewhat of a heresy and historically flies in the face of modern range lore, so.... others' mileage will vary....

Curt

[Muley Gil]

Hallo!

My personal and favorite N-SSA 'formula' was a 50/50 mix of rubbing alcohol and Hoppes 9 Plus (Hoppes 9 is for smokeless aka nitro-cellulose powder only). The rubbing alcohol allowed the wetness to dry and not retain water when cleaning between skirmish events.

For reenacting and living history, in the field, I cleaned with just (hot) water as was the norm for the Civil War and by the manual.

At home, or after a day at the range, I cleaned with hot water a little dish washing detergent.

It is a long and heretical discussion as most lads are sharply divided between Period and Modern cleaning routines some ranging almost as far as sterilization. :)

I hold the theory that like a cast iron pot or fry pan, steel (iron) gets seasoned. If one does not strip out the effects of wax/grease lube from the surface and pocks of the bore, it gets easier and faster to clean over time. After sealing the cone (nipple) and agitating a column of water in the bore a few times and pouring out the black/gray water, I was able to clean with 4-5 patches in about five minutes. Followed by a drying, and light oiling with a oiled patch.
It left a clean bore, save for the gray graphite that gets left from modern graphite coated black powder. And no orange or brown rusting between events.

Ask a hundred lads, and you will likely get 120 opinions on cleaning. :) :)

This is somewhat of a heresy and historically flies in the face of modern range lore, so.... others' mileage will vary....

Curt

I agree with Curt as to the "cast iron skillet" analogy. I clean with 50/50 Ballistol/water and lube with Bore Butter. It takes very little to clean my musket after an skirmish.

[jonk]

I disagree with the cast iron skillet analogy. Cast iron is a lot more porous, and black powder attracts moisture when residue is left uncleaned, as it contains salt. That residue must be removed, and if allowed to fester in microscopic pits in the bore, after time, they won't be microscopic any more; and even packing the bore with grease is not going to change that.

But, as said, ask 10 different guys, get 10 different answers- and then they argue on who is right.

You have to decide what works for you. Here's what I do.

I use the 33/33/33 mix of peroxide, water, and murphy's oil soap. Also superb as a hand cleaner, for black powder or anything else. But I start with water. Put a piece of rubber over the nipple, let a cup of water stand against the breech. Then use your scraper after it has sat for a few minutes. Then start in with the mix I list above. Usually about 3-4 patches will do it for me.

Now pull your nipple and clean out screw, spray some of the mix into the bolster, let it sit while you scrub the nipple. Come back and use a Q tip in the nipple recess and pipe cleaner in the clean out screw.

Finish by angling the gun so water can run out of these holes freely and pour about another cup of water down the muzzle. Dry. Oil nipple and barrel with ballistol, and wipe down metal.

Smoothbores are another story.