sharps questions

[ian45662]

I have an older model IAB sharps and I have a few questions. Took it to the range today and I was a little disappointed. Well I slugged the barrel and found it to be at .539 and I was shooting .547 dia bullets. I wonder how much that would factor into accuracy. Also the nipple is starting to erode. Will that have a big affect? I can size the bullets down to .540 and I will do that for the next range session next week and I would think that would help. I was shooting the rapine ringtail bullet with 50 grains of 2F in the paper cartridge. The gun has the chrome gas check but after about 25 rounds or so I have to drop the breach block for a slight cleaning and re apply the grease in the hollow part of the breach block. Would an o ring mod allow me to shoot more rounds with out having to clean the rifle?

[Terry Davis 10639]

I am no expert on sharps but I do stay at holiday inns.
I am new to sharps too. I recently starting working with my Shiloh sharps and have gotten very good results.
I had a stainless gas plate/oring conversion done, and I have put 40 rounds through mine in one session without any issues. The only reason I didn't shoot more was that I only had 40 rounds with me. It would have shot many more. I think the success of the conversion is directly related to who you have do it, however.
My barrel slugged 0.540" and until I had a sizing die made I was shooting unsized oversized ringtail bullets similar to your situation in it with groups of about 2" or so at 50 yards off a bench, so I don't think the oversize bullets are your accuracy issue. It seems to me that oversize bullets would be at least as accurate as proper size bullets, but they generate higher chamber pressure and wear on the gun, and in worst case a possible danger if chamber pressures got too high.

I had Ray Smith make me a lubrisizer die and it works ok, but with the taper on the bullet you get some lube squeezing out around the bullet. still better than hand lubing for me.

The groups I mention above were with 40 grains of 3F Goex. I use the cardboard tubes Charlie Hann sells, and although it is a bit of a hassle, seems like the gun stays cleaner then when I was using loose powder, and accuracy seems better. But, I didn't shoot it with the speed tubes, so maybe they work ok. When I was shooting loose powder at a range, I was just putting in a bullet and dumping measured charges from a musket loading tube into the chamber, so I was getting powder grains all over the breach and making a general mess.



I have an older model IAB sharps and I have a few questions. Took it to the range today and I was a little disappointed. Well I slugged the barrel and found it to be at .539 and I was shooting .547 dia bullets. I wonder how much that would factor into accuracy. Also the nipple is starting to erode. Will that have a big affect? I can size the bullets down to .540 and I will do that for the next range session next week and I would think that would help. I was shooting the rapine ringtail bullet with 50 grains of 2F in the paper cartridge. The gun has the chrome gas check but after about 25 rounds or so I have to drop the breach block for a slight cleaning and re apply the grease in the hollow part of the breach block. Would an o ring mod allow me to shoot more rounds with out having to clean the rifle?

[Brad4Ky]

Here's what you two fellas should do. Don't wast your time sizing sharps rounds and use soft lead for your rounds. My pedersoli will not miss using soft stuff. Ian get the o-ring job done on your IAB, it will improve and at least try 3f and see what happens. have fun.
Brad Schuler, 4th Kentucky Cavalry C.S.A.

[Terry Davis 10639]

Here's what you two fellas should do. Don't wast your time sizing sharps rounds and use soft lead for your rounds. My pedersoli will not miss using soft stuff. Ian get the o-ring job done on your IAB, it will improve and at least try 3f and see what happens. have fun.
Brad Schuler, 4th Kentucky Cavalry C.S.A.

I agree except that I am running them through the die mostly to lube them. I actually had the die made not to size them down that much but mostly just to make the lube step easier.

I also like the fact that the die trues up the diameter, but based on the results I was getting before I got the die, it probably doesn't matter that much. accuracy was better than I could hold it before I had the sizer die. As a guy who knows sharps told me, if it goes in the back, it will come out the front. Mine has a distinct preference for 3F so I would say try working with that. I used to use 2 F for musket and 3 F for SB, Revolver and carbine, but I worked out a load in 3 F for my musket and now only buy one type of powder. Makes life a little easier.

I understand some guys just dip lube the ends of the sharps bullets but I chose not to do that.

[paul w/McGregor's 385V]

Ian,
Been shooting my Shiloh since 1976.

1) O ring mod - yes
2) 35-45gr FFFg
3) soft lead, softer is best

Take care and be safe
pfb

[Southron Sr.]

When my Pedersoli Sharps was brand new, I could only fire 10 to 15 rounds before the breech block would start "freezing" from black powder fouling.

After I had an "O-Ring job" done on the backside of my gas pressure plate by a local machine shop on their surface grinder (total cost of job-less than $20.00.) I found I could fire 60 to 70 rounds without the breech block even starting to freeze.

Hint: I use "Ladies Hair Curler Papers" to make up my cartridges. I use stick glue and dental floss to secure the cartridge tube to the base of the bullet. Dental floss is a heck of a lot stronger than string.

I started ourt using double wide cigarette papers but the expense was prohibitive as the price of the papers have tobacco taxes included in their price. A visit to a beauty shop supply store netted me something like 6,000 hair curler papers for less than $10.00. Another advantage hair curler papers have is that they are STRONG, as they are designed to be used wet.

I am sure you will find your Sharps to be a very accurate carbine, as they usually are after a little load development.

[Terry Davis 10639]

Much to my girlfriends irritation, I have used up a bunch of her tissue wrapping paper. It is very thin and works well for sealing the end of the cardboard tubes I use.

I cut it into squares just a bit larger than the tube diameter, dip the end of the tube in a bit of white glue and set that down on the square of tissue paper. I stand them up in a loading tray to keep the cat from knocking them all over the place.

I wait until the next day, then fill the tubes and use a bit of the white glue to secure the bullet into the other end of the tube.

I am not sure the tissue paper is strong enough to make a complete cartridge from without the cardboard as I have had a couple rip, I think from being poked by the bullet from another cartridge when in my storage box. But, it is availible in a bunch of pretty colors. Accessories make the outfit.

[Johan Steele]

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[Charlie Hahn]

Addressing the first question,

IAB carbines have fitting issues in the breech area, and some times the locks need some attention.

A barrel sleeve o-ring job will help with function and inprove grouping. Why? It will allow for consistant pressures, and will get you through a whole team match with little to no maintenance.

Breech block, This will need to fit to the o-ring, and is part of a good o-ring job.

Bullet size, .002 to .004 over groove diameter is rule of thumb, soft or hard depends on the bullet fit, so you need to try several combinations for best results. I would suggest you start with .544 seal daimeter, and 45 grains of 2ffg. Shoot this till you get three consistant groups, and then change from there.

Sizing a bullet for this gun. If you are using a Christmas Tree style bullet it is important to make sure the rings are concentric. A push to stop die is recomended so all the diameters stay in line. Best is as cast if the sizes are correct if you use the tapered bullet. If you opt for a straight bullet then you can use a push through, I use both depending on the gun.

I do breech/o-ring repairs at several levels. If we look at sleeve type and using the breech and pressure plate you have, (assuming the pressure plate is useable) you are looking at $130 to $150 bucks. If you happen to have a short chamber a little more to make it the length you need.

Hope this helps

Charlie Hahn

[ian45662]

The gas check has been chrome plated at sometime in the life of the carbine. When I hold the breach area up to the light I can see light where it should be sealed. Is this an indication that it needs work?