Sharps misfires

[jonk]

I have a Pedersoli sharps. First season I used it, not a hiccup at all. (Was well used by then already).

Second season, it began to misfire. But in a most peculiar way.

Even if I fire 2, 3, 5 caps, the first round to go in does NOT want to go off. I've tried different diameter nipples, spraying degreaser through the fire channel, etc. I even tossed the whole breech block in my ultrasonic cleaner for a few rounds, and jammed my pressure washer up against the clean out screw. Got it squeaky clean. But something is still causing an issue, as the same thing keeps happening.

Once the first round goes off, the rest go just fine. But the first round sometimes needs several caps to touch off. Using nitrated paper and hair curler papers for end caps. 2F goex, regular RWS caps.

Any thoughts?

[Jim Wimbish, 10395]

I had problems with the first shot going off with several second model Maynards. After the first shot everything was fine. I finally figured out that the fouling was helping to seal the case against the breech face. I was able to eliminate the problem by spreading a little lube on the base of the first case that I would fire. Still do this with Maynards to this day and I don't have problems with the first round requiring multiple caps to go off. Nothing will wreck your pigeon board like taking 3 or 4 caps to get your first round to go off. It would appear to me that you are losing pressure somewhere when the gun is clean and unfired. I would suggest having some thick grease on the breech face and Teflon lube on the nipple threads and the cleanout screw threads to eliminate the loss of spark issue. I hope that this information will help you solve your ignition problem.

[jonk]

I hadn't thought about loss of spark. I do grease everything up good, but it's certainly a possibility. I have been using the same washer for the gas check plate spacing for ages, I wonder if it may have gotten a bit hammered down over time, allowing some spark to escape? Definitely one thing to check. Or just give it to Charlie for a breech block job.

[Jim_Burgess_2078V]

You may need to replace your nipple. If that doesn't work it could be the caps. I've been shooting a Shiloh Sharps carbine since 1978 with 50 grains of loose FFg behind a Lyman ringtail bullet. I started out using RWS caps without any problem but about the time that RWS started packaging their caps in plastic as opposed to metal tins, the caps seemed to lose strength and I began to experience misfires. I switched to the hot, 6-wing CCI caps and the problem went away. CCI discontinued their hot caps in favor of a weaker cap for re-enactors a few years ago and after my supply of CCI caps became depleted, I was forced back to using RWS caps both winged and wingless. The result has been a continuation of misfires, hangfires and erratic ignition with associated flyers. My carbine scores have been in the gutter recently. I found 3 tins of the old CCI caps at a gun show this past weekend and I'm anxious to see if my carbine will return to being the tack driver it once was.
Jim Burgess, 15th CVI

[Charlie Hahn]

Howdy,

Take a look at the end of the clean out screw. If it has a rounded end, in the clean condition the first shot fills the area around the nose and helps the next spark. The second condition can be a cratered face. This works the same in the clean condition, but will also show a slow fire condition. If you have either of these conditions a simple file stroke to flatten the pin will help. If it is burned back to far from the edge of the cone hole, you need a new screw. Best condition is a flat end flush with the edge go the cone hole.

Charlie Hahn

[Fred Jr]

In the past I have had ignition problems with my shiloh after replacing the nipple. Opening the hole a tiny amount solved that problem. After have Charlies O-ring job done I have an occasional first round missfire. Poking a hole in the base of the cartridge solved the problem. Never have miss-ignitions other than then. (not your fault Charlie, it has never shot better!) This might be caused by not using the CCI caps any more as Jim stated.

Fred

[John Bly]

I've been fooling with a 1st model Maynard with a misfire issue for the shooter. I've found nothing wrong with the gun and I've only had 1 misfire with it and I blamed it on a bad cap. I've been skirmishing for 30 years and have only had one or two misfires in that time up until about two years ago. I've had over half a dozen misfires since and I blame it on the percussion caps. There are more bad ones now than there ever used to be. Your Sharps issue with the first round fail to fire and after it goes off it seems to work OK is a gun issue I think. Lower powered caps could compound the problem. I think you've got some good solutions. One thing to check is if the hammer is hitting the nipple solidly. If you get blowby at the hammer/nipple interface you could be losing pressure needed to force the flame front through the fire channel to the powder charge.

[jonk]

To add to the cap thoughts... my first year I was using up a large batch of navy arms caps I had gotten some time ago. When they were exhausted I switched to the RWS... which is when the issues started. I hadn't equated that. So it certainly could be the issue, if the old caps were stronger.

I will try the suggestions so far, if it still does it I will try puncturing the paper with a pin before the skirmish.

[bobanderson]

When my Garret Sharps was misfiring, I switched to a shot out musket nipple. Never had another problem.

That fire has so many twists and turns, you don't need a tight hole in the nipple.

[rkel870]

I have and shoot an eaa Hahn modified 1863 carbine. When first modified, a new nipple was installed, the carbine wouldn't even go off. Then with much appreciated assistance from SAC and IG folks a drill and bits were produced. the nipple was drilled out until it reliably delivered fire to the Hahn paper tube cartridge. it goes off every time without a hitch or hiccup. last fall nat'ls I went 19 straight on the first set of birds and hangers. I do not have to clean it during an entire skirmish, it goes off without fail. Start just larger than the present nipple size and drilling from the bottom drill it out until it is reliable. good luck