Rogers & Spencer assembly question

[Jim Barber]

Well, if it wasn't evident before it is now. I do not know my arse from a hole in the ground. I thought I could replace the trigger spring on an R&S by removing the grips, trigger guard (bottom) screw, the frame/grip screw behind the trigger & just loosening the top grip screw, swinging it down a tad to fish out the old & install the new. It almost worked. Then there was a "CLICK" and the mainspring flipped up against the frame. Next time I'll keep a thumb on the hammer & not wiggle it around so much.

Any tips to get the mainspring back where it belongs behind the hammer without farking something up? The info I have on Remingtons says to tap out the mainspring at the bottom, hook it up at the top/ hammer end & then weasel the bottom back into place on the grip frame. The tolerances on the R&S make this look like a rather sporting/ perhaps impossible? proposition.

Thanks all!

Jim B.

[Ron/The Old Reb]

The first thing you have to do is take the spring out of the frame completely. Take out the cylinder and lower the hammer down on the frame. Put the revolver on a towel or something so that it dose not get marked up. Put the spring under the hammer. Then take a small crescent wrench get a hold on the bottom of the spring with just a little bit of the spring sticking out. Bend the spring till the little part of the spring that sticks out lines up with the spring slot in the frame. Try working the spring so it just stats into the slot. Take a small hammer like a tack hammer and tap it into the frame until it is level with the frame. I have done it this way lots of times.

[Fred Jr]

What Ron said Jim!

[Jim Barber]

Thanks guys! Reason I have it apart is replacing the trigger spring to try and increase the trigger pull. I've been told this may get it heavy enough for competition-- it's under 2# right now. Wish I could keep the hair trigger, it's super crisp.

Cheers
Jim

[Blair]

Jim,

Disassembling the R&S is similar to that of the Remington. One must relieve the mainspring tension before gaining access to the internal parts.
Ron has explained this very well.
Changing out the stop/trigger spring may not allow you with a heavier trigger pull. (These are not normally made heavier or lighter on purpose within the Colt, Remington or R&S type arms) Changing out the trigger/sear and/or changing the angle of the trigger sear face, slightly, will effect the trigger pull weight rather dramatically.
It is always a good idea to have a spare stop/trigger spring and a hand and spring, (previously fitted to your revolver) in your tool box for each firearm you shoot. (Sometimes mainsprings)
Just some thoughts on my part,

[Jim Barber]

Thanks Blair-- I just got it all buttoned back up. Whew! Anyway, the trigger still fails to lift a quart of water, so it looks like I'll be seeking Professional Help. Kind of sad, 'cause the current break is beautifully crisp and clean--no creep at all, no grit or weirdness. Just very light.
Since I didn't break anything, I'm glad I had it apart. I have a lot better grasp of how the internals work together now (though I'd rather not reinstall that mainspring again any time soon). Plus the spring I replaced looked to have been worn a good deal-- side by side, the profiles of the old & new were visibly different.

Thanks again to all for your help, I will attempt to entertain y'all again soon with other simpleminded queries.

Best,
Jim B.
110th OVI
Grove City, OH