Can't twist my nipples!

[Chris Sweeney]

I have a New Model Army Remington revolver and the nipples haven't been removed in maybe 157 years or so. Ive had the cylinder submerged in Kroil for 3 weeks and they still don't budge. Any recommendations as to tools to use or new chemical concoctions to douse it with woul be greatfully appreciated

Chris Sweeney
44th NYVI

[matt]

Make sure the cylinder is unloaded dry off the oil and take a propane torch and pass it evenly around the nipple and cylinder base this may loosen it you do not want it to get red hot just warm. If you are not getting anywhere with the Kroil soak the torch may work.
Mack

[Ken Hansgen, 11094]

Hey Chris, How are you doin'? I assume that's an original Remingon (since you said over 150 years)? Even on my repro. Remington, I had to put the cylinder in a vise (lined with lead) to remove the nipples.

[le piaf]

shot with your rem' and immediatly after try to unscrew the nipples , I win with 3 out six on my original , the 3 reb's had an too large event and I was obliged to destroy them;

[Blair]

Chris,

Just a thought on my part, but you may want to try "shocking" the parts by placing the cylinder in boiling water.
The heat from the boiling water causes the metal in the cylinder and the nipples to expand.
Then cool these parts in cold tap water, which cause the parts to contract to their normal state.
Repeat this as many times as is required, trying to brake the nipples loose after each cooling.
This has worked for me in my past efforts without worrying about over heating with a torch.
Blair

[rachbobo]

Chris,

Just a thought on my part, but you may want to try "shocking" the parts by placing the cylinder in boiling water.
The heat from the boiling water causes the metal in the cylinder and the nipples to expand.
Then cool these parts in cold tap water, which cause the parts to contract to their normal state.
Repeat this as many times as is required, trying to brake the nipples loose after each cooling.
This has worked for me in my past efforts without worrying about over heating with a torch.
Blair

I was going to suggest the same thing except dropping them in Kroil, WD-40 or Hoppe's #9 or something similar.
The expansion and shrinkage of heat being applied then cooled will work the oil into the threads.

Bill Cheek
Cockade rifles

[Gary Van Kauwenbergh, 101]

I got this from a fellow shooter. I haven't tried it, and don't care for acetone, but it might work:

For All of you Mechanic's and do-it-yourself'ers out there.
Penetrating Oils


Recently “Machinist Workshop Magazine” did a test on penetrating oils. Using nuts and


bolts that they ‘scientifically rusted’ to a uniform degree by soaking in salt water, they then


tested the break-out torque required to loosen the nuts. They treated the nuts with a variety


of penetrants and measured the torque required to loosen them.


This is what they came up with:


Nothing: 516 lbs
WD-40: 238 lbs;
PB Blaster: 214 lbs;
Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs,
Kano Kroil: 106 lbs
(ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs.


This last “shop brew” of 50% automatic transmission fluid and 50% acetone appears to beat


out the commercially prepared products costing far more.

[Bob Lintner]

Gary,
This is good info to remember! Thanks!
Bob

[Chris Sweeney]

Nice to know there's an alternative to Kroil - stuff works great but there's something in it that makes my skin burn whenever I'm near it. Don't even have to get any on me.

Part of the problem may be my skanky nipple wrench - it pops off the nipples and I'm afraid it's gonna round off the corners

[Gary Van Kauwenbergh, 101]

I'm a big Kroil fan. I don't have any reaction to it. One word of warning about acetone. I told a Navy medic I was using it without gloves, and he told me it gets absorbed into the skin and goes through your liver, which doesn't heal from it. Be careful about breathing the fumes too!

[Bob Lintner]

Gary,
More good info, although I keep mine in the shed and only use it outdoors. Yeah, I wear gloves too! Thanks.