Questions and more questions... I know, I know....

[tackdriver]

Ok, my head is reeling from all the new found information I've found here. I just have a few more questions (today) that I haven't found the answer for

For My 1853 repro Enfield:


1) What powder charge do most recommend when shooting at distances of 2-300 yards? Im not talking pinpoint accuracy here. I assume that when using the standard 40g at 100 yards the rear sight would not adjust enough to carry a 40g ball out to 300??

2) When casting minies, too many times I get "pin holes" of various sizes/depths at the top of the hollow base. Shooting these up to 100 yds doesnt seem to make a difference, but I suspect these are what are causing me to get inconsistant results at 300... opinion? Any idea what causes these holes and how to stop them? I have tried holding the mold at an angle, holding the mold tight against the nipple, allowing the hot lead to drop a half inch into the mold.....


3) Glass bedding. Are glass bedded barrels allowed to be used at NSSA events? My barrel gets very hot after 12 rds and Im sure this causes some errant results also. Do you think glass bedding will help and any particular brand of gb that is recommended?

So? you guys sorry you let me join you yet??

thx

[marv762]

i use 50 grains of goex 2f powder with a lyman 510 grn bullet in my enfield. i shoot out to 200 yards with no issues. can keep them in the black of a 100 hard nssa target.
i cast at 800 deg. when i am making minnies and found that that fixed my same problem. also make sure you flux your lead to keep it clean.
my gun is not beaded and it shoots great. Marv

[Southron Sr.]

First of all, I REJECT ALL Minie Balls that have visible pin holes in them.

I weigh my Minie Balls and REJECT all the very heavy or very light ones-even if no pin holes are visible.

ALL factory made replica Enfields have poor bedding. You definitely need to at least glass bed your breech and tang.

[rachbobo]

2) When casting minies, too many times I get "pin holes" of various sizes/depths at the top of the hollow base. Shooting these up to 100 yds doesnt seem to make a difference, but I suspect these are what are causing me to get inconsistant results at 300... opinion? Any idea what causes these holes and how to stop them? I have tried holding the mold at an angle, holding the mold tight against the nipple, allowing the hot lead to drop a half inch into the mold.....

If you are using a bottom drop melting pot, DON'T. More often than not the drop hole is too small to let the volume of lead through fast enough.
Use a regular melting pot and a ladle, Aluminum or Cast Iron. Even then I drill the pour hole larger to allow quicker filling of the mold.
Doing that I have no more voids in the cast slugs.

Bill Cheek
Cockade Rifles

[matt]

Glass bed your musket it will make a difference. Some full bed the entire barrel channel others just by the barrel bands. The breech area always gets bedded. The Full channel method adds weight but also prevents the wood from warping in rain and humidity. I have done it both ways and both improve accuracy. Try swirling your lead into the sprue hole instead of keeping the spout of the pot or dipper tight on the sprue hole. This is what I have found works for me. I cast very hot and have found that i get better minnies also stir and flux your pot often. Powder charge, the service load was 60 grains of musket powder. I have never shot my musket past 100 yds but I would see no need to go above 50-55 grains of 3f to get it out to 300 yds. Good thing about the enfield is the rear sight and you can raise it to where the strike of the round is high and then file it down to get the point of impact where you want it.
Matt

[John Bly]

The way to prevent holes in the cavity of your minies bullets is a casting technique. Ladle pouring works best. Tilt the mold and start the pour at and angle so the lead goes down one side of the sprue hole. While pouring bring the mold to level as it fills. When the mold is full you aren't done! Continue pouring molten lead over the sprue hole and keep a molten puddle there for 3- 5 seconds as the lead in the mold cools. This keeps molten lead in the sprue as the bullet cools and shrinks. As it shrinks it pulls lead into the mold to keep it full. If the sprue is allowed to harden before the bullet hardens then it shrinks internally causing the holes. If you still get holes then get your lead hotter so it cools more slowly. Try it and you'll see results right away.

[Maillemaker]

I'll just say what everyone else has always said.

I do use a bottom-pour pot, a Lee 20 pound pot.

I find that if I allow the lead to pur straight into the mold, I almost always get voids. The key is to tilt the mold so that the lead flows down the side of the cavity rather than impinging directly on the insert that forms the rear cavity.

For the most consistent accuracy, you should visually inspect every bullet and discard those with any visible defects such as voids or dents.

Many people also weigh them and discard those outside of a certain weight range. This weeds out bullets with hidden internal voids.

Glass bedding works.

Steve

[tackdriver]

As usual THANKS guys....

I assume that the instructions that come with the bedding material should be enough to show me how its done, I am sure they just deal with modern firearms.

Prior to what I've read here and after watching a youtube on bedding, I'd just assumed you bedded the barrel along the entire stock, not just certain points! I understand some glass the entire barrel length, even though it doesn't appear necessary.

I couldnt find a youtube video on bedding an enfield, does anyone know if one exists? Heck, even pix would be helpful. I have been known to screw up a thing or too, more often than not, IF you listen to my wife....

From what I've gathered here, for an Enfield you usually just carve out some of the wood and apply the bedding at the, tang, breech and barrel bands areas?

[Maillemaker]

I had my Enfield bedded by Richard Hill.

I do not believe you "carve" any wood out during bedding. What the bedding does is fill in the existing voids between your existing stock and your barrel. It essentially makes your stock exactly conform to the contour of your barrel, so that it is perfectly supported. This way, when your slip on your barrel bands and tighten them down you are not bowing the barrel as it deforms into unsupported areas of the stock.

I understand in the old days they would coat the barrel with lamp black and install it in the stock and then remove wood wherever the lamp black revealed high spots in the wood, and they would repeat this until a perfect fit was achieved.

Nowadays stocks are simply CNC milled to accept the barrel profile.

Steve

[matt]

You dont have to carve out wood. But it does help to score the wood so the epoxy can grip the wood. Make sure you use a lot of release agent or you will lock your barrel into the wood. Use release agent on the barrel bands tang screw and lock screws.
Matt

[Ken Hansgen, 11094]

And if the wood is cut thru' anywhere to the lock (I don't know if this is a problem with Enfields, but look anyway). there is a fix using a plastic bag. Better consult an expert, tho', such as Southron.

[David Disher 12143]

Matt is correct. The proper application of release agent is key to a good result. You cant really use too much. If you are unable to remove the barrel from the stock after the bedding has cured, try LIGHTLY heating the whole barrel with a torch, being careful not to scorch the stock. This usually allows the barrel to be removed from the bedded stock. Also, when seating the barrel into the stock while the bedding is soft, use a Q-tip to remove excess...its much easier to clean while soft, than waiting until it is cured.

David Disher
110th OVI

[Pat in Virginia]

Bedding the PH Enfield:

This is the way the Brits do it. They don't allow the use of glass bedded rifles in their competitions. So they have having been doing it something like this for more than 150 years now.


http://www.researchpress.co.uk/firearms/british/enfield/management09.htm

Just in case your interested,


Pat in Virginia

[Southron Sr.]

If you don't use enough release agent you worry about getting your barrel released from the stock AFTER the bedding has hardened.

SOMETIMES I DON'T EVEN BOTHER TO APPLY RELEASE AGENT!!!!

Simply heat the barrel to 300 Farenheit with a propane torch and the expansion of the barrel will help "release" it from the stock. Usually tapping the underside of the barrel in front ot the nose cap with a wooden or rubber mallet will cause the barrel to "pop out."

[Pat in Virginia]

Do be sure you are using glass bedding. Other epoxy type bedding material may not be as cooperative as glass bedding with regard to releasing at relatively low temps

[tackdriver]

Hi everyone. I just wanted to add an extra thank you for all your help. I glass bedded the stock. (didnt use enough material BUT the barrel now makes contact with the stock where it should) I also lowered my powder charge from 60g to 45g 3f.

Yesterday, shooting from a rest at 50 yards, my first 3 shots at the target where actually touching each other! Up till now, I was lucky to even hit the target 3x out of 10 shots!

I was also able to figure out the sight adjustment to be able to hit consistantly at 300 yards with the 45g charge. With the 60g, hits were all over the place and I always assumed that was the best I would be able to do with this rifle.

So, I just wanted to let you guys know that your advice wasn't wasted. Course, now ya'll will regret it when I come back there and take first place at the next NSSA contest!!

thanks again

Steve