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Eggman
06-13-2012, 12:31 PM
The last national I experienced one of those traumatic events we all dread (actually three if you count the screws falling out and disappearing from the revolver and carbine; check your screws). Sunday morning our Inspector, Little Norm the Trigger Checker, advised me that my musket trigger needed to be checked. I assured him, "Norm, my trigger could lift an anvil." Norm then applied his electronic trigger checker. It plays "I can't Get No Satisfaction" if the trigger fails, and "I'm Proud to be an American" if it passes. Well it seems that after a day on the individual target range the trigger pull had gotten soft.
I had anticipated a situation like this, so when the usual screw tightening failed to remedy the problem, I installed a new sear spring I kept on hand - which wasn't as easy as it sounds since it had to be fitted to the lock, and all we had on hand to work on it was Norm's fingernail file. Anyway, once installed the musket passed.
That got me to thinking. Once back home I decided to check the trigger pull on my other musket, the one I use when I really want to hit targets. As usual it passed, but was close. Lifting the gun too rapidly would trip the lock.
So I decided to go into the lock and maybe give myself a little more cushion. Once the lock was removed I noticed that both bridle screws were about one turn loose. I had a vague recollection that they were always this, that the guy who owed and tuned the gun before me kept it this way, but I couldn't remember why. So I tightened the screws up.
The trigger pull immediately went to around six ounces, way way way below where it was. So I pulled the lock and observed the internal lock action for a bit and noticed that the sear was now clamped down so tight it was binding and was thus not fully engaging the tumbler. As a result the trigger pull was way too soft.
So I again turned the bridle screws one turn out again. The sear again moving freely. I then reinstalled the lock and rechecked the trigger pull -- it was once again comfortably over the three pound minimum.
So it the "for what it's worth department," the unconventional solution here was LOOSEN your lock screws for a firmer trigger pull.

Lou Lou Lou
06-13-2012, 03:01 PM
I just returned from my AA/NA meeting. After reading your posting I need a drink. Please refrain from further postings.

Gary Van Kauwenbergh, 101
06-13-2012, 06:15 PM
If any of the parts in your lock are binding against the wood, you can usually see the rub marks on the wood when you remove the lock. I've had to remove some of the wood with a Dremel tool on a few. Only remove what you need to, some of the reproduction stocks are pretty darn thin and you don't want to file a hole into the next compartment.

Prolonged over-tightening of the lock screws can create compress the wood and create that situation too.

Ken Hansgen, 11094
06-13-2012, 09:43 PM
Huh? But Gary, Eggman was talking about the screws INSIDE the lock, not the 2 that hold it on the stock.

Lou Lou Lou
06-14-2012, 09:41 AM
It was so riveting he most likely dosed off reading the posting and missed that part.:)

hp gregory
06-14-2012, 01:05 PM
what i have seen happen a lot is that repro lock plates are drilled where the bridle puts the tumbler in a bind when you tighten the screws. this can do strange things to your trigger pull. it can bind things up and make the pull harder or it can misalign things so that you dont get as much bite on full cock which lightens your pull. if you leave the screws a little little loose everything sorta ligns itself up. on mississippi and zouave repro plates i would take the bridle and drill out the tumbler hole then plug it by soldering in a steel plug. i made a tool to go through the tumbler hole in the plate and up against the plugged bridle when screwed in position. the tool had a drill bit that would line bore the hole in the bridel with the plate hole. this keeps everything lined up and working smoothly. when you do this along with having the correct width tumbler you can tighten the bridle screws without problem.
on a zouave the best way to make the lock function well is to install a mississippi tumbler, sear, and bridle along with a L&R main spring for their classic lock. in some cases a L&R sear spring can work well also. these springs go for 5 to 15 bucks and have the correct tension. if you use mr crosses replacement parts you end up with a lock every bit as good as an original. one that will last you for many years with a little tender loving care. lock function is all about seting it up properly to begin with.

hp

Eggman
06-14-2012, 01:16 PM
Very interesting! Yup it's a Zoli zouave.