Loading Charlies Tubes for Dummies

[marbee40]

Charlie just worked over my I.A.B. Sharps 1863 .54. I'm new to BP (duh). :D I've got a bag full of Charlies tubes on the bench and paper. I hate to keep pestering him with repeated phone calls. Can someone describe how to put the paper on or in the end of the tube, load the powder, and seal the bullet on the end in a way that even an old Seabee can understand?

On a side note: Anyone on here know of a distributor for Swiss 2f in Alaska?

Thanks,
Jim

[Michael T.]

This is how my son-in- law detailed it for me: need some curling papers (permanent wave type) white elmer's glue, a short piece of 7/16" dowel rod. Cut curling papers into 1" or 1- 1/4 " squares, line one end of tube (inside) with small amount of glue- very fine line- place paper square over end of dowel rod and gently push into tube until it contacts glue, remove dowel and place tube paper side up to dry, repeat process. When tubes are dry measure powder into tubes, if it does not fill tube add cream of wheat as a filler, place a small amount of glue around ring at base of bullet and insert into tube, allow to dry. After you have made all the charges you wish lube bullet careful not to dip past bullet onto cardboard tube.Waxed paper acts as a good way to make dowel slide, polish with wax paper.. enjoy Mike

[ian45662]

I use paper medical tape that you get from cvs or a similar drug store. I used to glue the paper to the end but a team mate recomended the tape and I have never looked back.

[kowdok]

Be careful using filler. My Sharpes would blow out only 50% or less when using filler, stopped using filler and 100% now blow out. I think filler in a Sharpes is highly overrated.

[ian45662]

I agree 100% about the filler. Instead I put a 45 cal wad over the powder and some Elmer's glue to hold the wad in place. It does leave an air space between the powder and the base of the bullet and I know some people would argue against doing that but I have not had any problems with the little gap.

[Don Dixon]

Let's think about the issue of filler in an 1859 Sharps. The original weapon used a linen cartridge. When you closed the breech, the cartridge cutter on the breech block cut off the end of the cartridge and powder spilled into the rather large space in the breech block; particularly if you tipped the rifle up as you shouldered it. They did not use compressed powder loads in the original Sharps cartridges. So, the Sharps was never designed to have a chamber full of powder. Given the original design criteria, why then would one use filler?

The more critical issue in Sharps accuracy is velocity. When firing the Civil War era transitional Sharps rifles at the ranges used in the N-SSA, there is a velocity sweet spot of between 850 to 900 feet per second. One needs to load to achieve that, not a "full" chamber.

Regards,
Don Dixon
2881V

[marbee40]

Mike, Ian, Kowdoc and Don,
Thanks VERY much for the info. I had already grabbed the 7/16 dowel and papers, so I'm ahead there. Waxpapering the end of the dowel to make it slippery is a GREAT idea! As for filler; Charlie had the same advise as some of you in regards to leaving the space as it won't hurt a thing.

To "hold" the powder in place I'm gonna try a few with advice I read elsewhere which says to punch out .45 shaped circles of cereal box cardboard (THIN) and glue them in.

Again, THANK YOU!

As for real BP. Only one place in Alaska carries any and all they have is KIK. Otherwise it's dirty ol' substitute, so I guess I'll try KIK. And no, I haven't found any stateside distributor who will ship to AK. Also, most gun/sporting goods shops up here don't wanna deal with storage or rules that come with real BP, so I'm at a bit of disadvantage.

Have a great one!
Jim

[ian45662]

KIK should be good. I have never used it but I have heard good things about it.

[Dave Fox]

I believe you'll find that the linen cartriges for Sharps weapons were designed, like Charlie's tubes, to fit entirely in the weapon's chamber and not to be sheared-off by the closing breach block plate as were earlier paper cartridges and at least some Confederate-manufactured Sharps paper ammunition I've seen.

[Francis J. Miller Jr, 02601]

Don,

Does the 850 to 900 f.p.s. velocity sweet spot pertain to the carbines as well?


Let's think about the issue of filler in an 1859 Sharps. The original weapon used a linen cartridge. When you closed the breech, the cartridge cutter on the breech block cut off the end of the cartridge and powder spilled into the rather large space in the breech block; particularly if you tipped the rifle up as you shouldered it. They did not use compressed powder loads in the original Sharps cartridges. So, the Sharps was never designed to have a chamber full of powder. Given the original design criteria, why then would one use filler?

The more critical issue in Sharps accuracy is velocity. When firing the Civil War era transitional Sharps rifles at the ranges used in the N-SSA, there is a velocity sweet spot of between 850 to 900 feet per second. One needs to load to achieve that, not a "full" chamber.

Regards,
Don Dixon
2881V

[Eggman]

"Sweet spots" in terms of fps for bullets is bullet specific. I assume this is true for the variety of sharps bullets used as well. Thus the endless streams of test data you see flowing here on the forum.

[Francis J. Miller Jr, 02601]

I don't have a chrony, would have to borrow and/or buy one to see what my current load is producing as far as muzzle velocity f.p.s. Just curious to see what it is, and whether it would make any difference in performance.

[Greg Ogdan 110th OVI]

Look Out! chrony data coming later this summer, 'cause I now have one! As far as sweet spots, all I can say is 50gr FFg of Goex out shoots me in either my Shiloh Sharps carbine OR Pedersoli Sharps infantry. This is behind a 475gr Rapine ringtail.

[Charlie Hahn]

The 850 /900 FPS does not always apply, but is a good bench mark. For the short distance we shoot, spin rate is also important. You will find two basic rates, 1:36 and 1:48 in most guns, and one will like a little more powder than the other. Bullet length is the other, .900/.950 are magic.I have made a few gainers that finsh around 22 to 30. They allow speeds below 850. The load is critical for cold to hot weather, but results are real nice.Charlie Hahn

[marbee40]

Hey Charlie!

So, I buy some 2f BP from a fella at the local gunshow as it's awful scarce up here. I shoulda known better! This GOEX can has a bit of rust on the top....ugh. I'm so desperate I just buy it.

Sure enough I took it out last weekend with a bunch of freshly loaded tubes and ....nothing. The caps were working perfectly (no missfires) and the back of Charlie's tubes were crispy where the cap charge burned thru the paper. Powder didn't ignite and no resulting bang!

I thought maybe it was just that particular tube. I went through two more with the same result. BTW, I'm using 1081 German 4 wing caps. Best I could find up here and too impatient to wait for the non-wing caps Charlie recommended...but they are on the way.

Went into Anchorage today and found the LONE place in all of Alaska that sells real black powder (KIK 2f). We'll try again next weekend.

Thanks for all your advise. I'll also be purchasing a simple scale for weighing my powder prior to loading the tubes.