Original Wood Finish

[hobbler]

When the arms were originally issued what type of finish was applied to the wood of Springfield muskets?
I am currently removing the stuff from an Armisport that darkens your hands. Was wondering what was originally used in the 1850's-60's.
Thanks.
hobbler

[Southron Sr.]

My understanding is that after the stocks came off of the carving machines they were lightly sanded and then dipped into a vat of boiling linseed oil. They were then set aside to dry.

If you have ever observed many original arms, they all seem to exhibit a very dark finish. Some of which is the way they come out of the vat of linseed oil and some due "age darkening."

Generally, when I refinish a replica musket stock I use "Mahogany" or a dark "Walnut" stain available from the local hardware store. That is followed by several coats of Tru-Oil available from Dixie Gun Works or other retailers.

[Fauch125]

I've used a product called Fairtrimmers Military OX, now marketed through Brownells. Easy to apply, pleasing hand rubbed oil finish for military rifles. Unlike BLO (boiled linseed oil) or Tung oil, the product actually dries, can be reapplied for maintenance, and will seal the wood, especially with a product like Tom's 1/3 mix wax. Instructions are provided with the product.

[Frog]

50% boiled linseed oil--50% mineral spirits, several thin coats after the previous one has dried.
As close to the original as I have found.

Try it you will like it.

[Fearless Frank]

I use 1 part boiled linseed oil and 4 parts turpentine for years. It's also good on decks, outdoor furniture,waterproofing any wood and it dries. If you ever have trouble with linseed oil drying add Japan Drier to it. Buy it at the Hardware store not Home Depot.

[Ken Hansgen, 11094]

Hobbler, keep in mind that those original muskets had stocks of American walnut, a dark colored wood--probably a European-made repro has a much lighter colored wood that needs some darkening to look more original

[hobbler]

Gentlemen, thanks for the direction towards the linseed oil. The slow maturation into loveliness has begun. I used rag rub downs with denatured alcohol to remove whatever that stuff is that Armisport had applied at the factory. Worked quite well.
Now if I could just figure out how to go about giving it a decent trigger pull without messing with the spring... Oh well, one thing at a time.

[Yancey von Yeast, 8073]

I hope that this comes across as a duh...everyone knows that....

Remember when working with linseed oil, that rags, paper towels or any other forms of cloth saturated with linseed oil can simultaneously combust. Many have been hurt or lost homes from working with linseed oil and letting the rags sit for a few hours. It is most dangerous when they are wadded up or compressed, but it can happen merely sitting in a pile.

When I work with linseed oil, I use paper towels and take them out in the back yard and burn them when finished.