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OLD CHIEF
04-03-2008, 09:03 AM
New Euroarms Mississippi firing problems. I have just got around to working up a load for the new 54 cal Mississippi that has been unfired in my gun cabinet for the last six months or so. It shoots a good group but the caps will not detonate about 20 % of the time. The caps were tested in my other rifle and work ok..The hammer is falling square on the nipple but the impact seems to be much lighter than my other guns. is there any thing I can try before I start changing out lock parts? :?

Thanks in advance
old chief - 4th la
Dahlonega Ga.

Joseph Plakis Jr, 00302V
04-03-2008, 09:52 AM
I would think the first thing you would want to check if the lock is binding. The bridle could be too tight. That would entail taking the main spring out and working the hammer to see if the tumbler is binding on the bridle & lock plate. If it is free I would put a small piece of pencil eraser in the v of the main spring. Install the lock try to snap a couple of caps if they all go off buy a new spring. If the problem was with binding asssemble the lock and only tighten the screw in the bridle that does not go througn the sear. If you tighten the sear screw too much you can cause binding. If that does not work stone the tumbler side down a little. When you are stoning it try it often you can not put metal back on.

Joe Plakis Jr.
Hampton Legion

“When you see the shadow of a pigeon fight the urge to look up” - Confucius

WV SCROUNGER
04-03-2008, 10:14 AM
make sure your caps are seated all the way down on the nipple...
may be try another brand cap... ...

Greg Ogdan, 11444
04-03-2008, 11:03 AM
Is the nipple face sharp, or old and peened flat?

OLD CHIEF
04-03-2008, 06:10 PM
Greg 110 - the nipple is new and sharp.

WV scrounger - i did try some of the cci caps i use on my sharps, same results :cry:

Bill

Greg Ogdan, 11444
04-03-2008, 07:36 PM
One thing we have both forgotten, assuming the lock works are free when out of the gun AND the mainspring is strong enough. If either the tang bolt or lock bolt are too tight, the lock can be put in a bind. Check tightness on both and, if too tight, loosen 1/2 to 1 full turn and try again. Just a thought.

John Holland
04-04-2008, 12:44 AM
The problem may be as simple as a nipple that is just a tad too short. It has happened on some imports.

JDH
44th NY

WV SCROUNGER
05-10-2008, 08:00 PM
to check for a " short nipple" just back it out a few turns and then try busting a cap....DONT shoot live rounds with the nipple backed out...
just back it out for a test.....

OLD CHIEF
05-11-2008, 09:18 AM
Hi

so far I have backed the nipple out a bit - no help

I have replaced the main spring - no help

I have checked lock for binding - no problem found

not sure what to do next. do not want to change the complete lock out but may have to do that to get it working.

Bill Hicks
4th la

ljflees
05-11-2008, 10:42 AM
If you have changed mainspring, etc., then edge of the nipple most likely just needs a slight chamfer. It is an often overlooked problem. But can be a source of much cusing. The end of the nipple is too large and not allowing the cap to make contact, and the hammer just expends its energy reshaping the cap. If the caps fires with the second fall of the hammer, then the chamfer will correct the problem.

lj

Charlie Hahn
05-13-2008, 06:56 AM
Have you checked to see if the lock plate is bowed? Some of the new repros have a heavy stamp and during case hardening the plate will bow. You can check this by using a 6 inch scale as a stright edge. Next see how the tumbler fits in the plate, you should have between .002 and .004 clearance for the best fit.

While it is apart, see if the lock has a wear path. Check by the stirup/mainsping interface, then also by the upper bridle stop.

Next if the plate was bowed, it needs to be straigtened. This can be done in a bench vice with three pins. The center of the plate is soft, so it can be done by taking small pressure until the striaght egde makes full contact.

Once straight, and if there were wear marks, use a magic marker to color these spots, and assemble the lock, cycle, and check, the marks should retain the color from the marker. Removing material from the internal parts is the last course of action to make sure your lock is truly free working.

Charlie Hahn
410-208-4736

PS: I will be in the Ball Accuracy booth during the National and could take a look at it there if you like.

Southron Sr.
05-27-2008, 11:53 AM
Dear Bill:

Head down to your local hardware store and get some 600 and 1200 grit "Emery Paper." This stuff is sold by the single sheet or in packs.

Disassemble your lock and wrapping the Emery Paper around a small, flat piece of metal to act as a sanding block, polish the inside face of your lockplate until it is "mirror bright." I have polished the inside of Springfield lock plates that are so polished, I can actually see the reflection of my face in them! Yep, that will take some "elbo grease," but you can take your time and do it while you are sitting in front of the TV watching a program, etc.

Then polish all of the side surfaces of the lock parts that come into contact with each other and the sides of the sear screw that the sear pivots on. I even polish the hole in the lockplate.

Then coat all the parts with a good, slick gun grease and reassemble the lock. What you will find is that your "lock time" will be reduced and consider that your hammer is hitting the cap on the nipple at a much higher velocity, this might solve your problem.

Competetive shooters in the modern centerfire matches have long known that a very fast "lock time" enhances accuracy. If I recall correctly, even back in the 1920's & 1930's Springfield Armory was making special parts for the National Match '03 Springfields that featured a much faster lock time for competetive shooters in the Army, Navy and Marines that competed in the National Matches.

OLD CHIEF
05-28-2008, 09:46 AM
thanks Brannen

If I can not get it working, would you mind looking at it at the next shootarama?

Bill

Southron Sr.
05-28-2008, 11:47 AM
Dear Bill:

Will be glad to do so!

Your Friend,

Brannen