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Scott Lynch 1460V
12-02-2008, 07:36 AM
What is the best glue to use to splice a forend on with? I plan to glass bed after I have attached the forend, but want to glue the stock together first. Thanks

Greg Ogdan, 11444
12-02-2008, 08:32 AM
Scott,
I'm sure others will have thoughts, but, for me, I like any hide glue or Gorilla Glue, which is an "improved" hide type glue.

Scott Lynch 1460V
12-02-2008, 08:35 AM
Greg I tried gorilla glue and it was useless. I followed the instructions to the letter and the stock came apart in my hands as soon as I put any stress on it. Thanks anyway.

Andy Goddard
12-02-2008, 09:48 AM
I have used Hot stuff Instsant Glue from Bownells. It comes in different thicknesses for the size of repair. I would imagine the repair would last permanent if you bed over it. Just make sure the crack is clean. I use alcohol to clean first, then let it dry. Good Luck.....Andy

slou92
12-02-2008, 10:34 AM
Give systems three t-88 epoxy a try. I just did this and the joint is solid!

David Disher 12143
12-02-2008, 12:22 PM
You may consider using a couple small dowels, in addition to any glue that you may use. As you arent working with a large surface area to bond together, any additional support you can give the joint will help immensely.

I did this very thing on restoration project with an old 1816 that had been sporterized, and used (2) 1/4" dowels, on either side of the barrel channel, centered into the meat of the forestock...and used Gorilla glue. Try to be sparing with the glue...too much will not give you a good strong joint. Be sure to use glue in the dowel holes as well.

Regards,

Ddisher
110thOVI
12143

Charlie Hahn
12-02-2008, 01:43 PM
Scott,

I use the glass kit epoxy of what ever system I am using. This way I don't have to worry about compatability of materials over time
If I can use dowels, I do to provide additional surface, (another post) I use a several step process that includes adding a dog bone or bow tie steel splice inside the barrel channel when I do the final glass. This added an additional stiffener that is inside the whole bonded stock.
Charlie

jefskirmisher
12-02-2008, 02:05 PM
I am not a gunsmith, however I am a carpenter and have glued hundreds of board feet of wood together. I have always had luck with Titebond products. The original product may not be the best because most of us use some sort of water based cleaner to clean our guns. However the Titebond III is a waterproof glue that will hold tighter than the grain of the wood that you are gluing. I have glued wood together using these products and then hit them with a hammer for a test. The wood always breaks before the glue joint. Good Luck!

Jason Frazer
2nd OVI

John Holland
12-03-2008, 11:54 AM
Jason,

I had asked "Where should I look to find Titebond III?" I

got my answer in minutes.

John Gottschall just called me with a location only about 3 miles from my house!

Thanks to all, and especially John G.

John

John Bly
12-03-2008, 12:31 PM
Scott, I like to use Brownell's original Acraglas for such a joint. A butt joint is the most difficult joint to get to hold. The mating parts must be clean & dry. Two 1/4" wooden dowels, one on each side drilled about 3/4" into the stocks are a good idea. The original Acraglas is in liqiud form and many people do not like it because of this, but it will absorb into the wood somewhat and give a better bond. Be sure to use the glass fibers included in the kit. They are strengtheners such as horsehair used in antiquity in mortar joints or modern whiskered ceramics or the ultra strong enhanced titanium used in aerospace applications.
After the initial joining, I chisel out from the inside about an inch into each section about 3/8" wide x 3/8" deep being careful to not get into the ramrod channel. I install a snug fitting wooden tenon in this slot when I glass bed the barrel to the stock & bands. This provides a lap joint to fasten the sections together which is a much stronger joint. A stock done this way will be a permanent job and never give any problems coming loose or falling apart. Best of luck in your endeavor. John D. Bly 5109V

Southron Sr.
01-06-2009, 10:38 AM
I would recommend that you forget the "Glue" stuff as Acraglas Bedding Compound from Brownells is the way to go if you want a good, solid pernament "fix" for the problem.

Another advantage of Acraglas is that, after it is dry, it can be sanded down to match the exact contour of the stock and with the application of a little stain and finish, it will be almost impossible to see the repair.

NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use a WOODEN DOWEL to repair a stock, use a STEEL dowel as it is much, much STRONGER. Better yet, if the steel dowel has screw threads, then the glass bedding can mould around it making an extremely strong "mechanical lock" of the steel in the stock. Hint: make sure the steel dowel is completely free of oil before you glass it into your stock!

GOOD LUCK

Eddie Williams
01-06-2009, 06:28 PM
We build sport fishing yachts in NC with West System 2 part epoxy, with a cabosil filler. This is the strongest glue I ever seen. You can control the thickness with the filler or use straight mixed resin. When the wood fits tight the glue seam will match the dark finish stocks. You can find it at most any marine hardware store. A 1 pint kit with hardener and pumps is about $25.00. The pumps are extra, but worth the expense for proper mixing ratio of resin and hardener.
My .02
Eddie

David Disher 12143
01-07-2009, 01:36 PM
My repair with the wood dowel is still holding strong. (2+ years) There are a lot of diffferent ways to fix a problem. The dowel I used was fluted, which gave me lots of space for the glue to travel in the hole and form a solid bond.

ddisher
110th OVI
12143