Help with Smith Carbine

[paulmarcone]

I just opened it and have been unable to get the breech open. I am pushing upward on the T-bar in front of the trigger and it's not moving. The T-bar does not depress upward.

Am I doing something wrong or do I need to unscrew or do something to get the t-bar to engage and open the breech.

I am pushing pretty hard and nothing is moving. At this point I don't want to break anything so I am asking for some advice.

By the way, my wife purchased it from Dixie Gun Works.

Thanks.

[Jim Brake 3587]

Turn the hammer away from you and press with both thumbs on the "t" plunger. If it still doesn't open, use a thin blade screwdriver on the rear of the top strap.

[Fauch125]

First try holding the carbine as you would fire it, with your left hand on the handguard, and your right hand around the wrist. Try exerting some downward pressure on the top stap while pushing up with your index finger on the brass T. Holding it the same way, try exerting some upward pressure using your two hands, and try the release again. If a few attempts like this won't work, use a screw driver to loosen the topstrap (it may be bound), and try to open again. Once you can open and close, and operate the release freely, don't forget to close the breech and tighten the topstrap again. These screws hava a tendancy to shoot loose, I put a bit of blue locktight on mine. It allows a bit of adjustment with how back and forth play there is in the action and how easy it is to work the release. Kind of a compromise.
Hope this helps

[jbarber]

Take a look at your T bar. The longer portion of the slightly curved finger bar should face to the rear (butt) of the carbine. If it has been installed 180 degrees off - reversed - no amount of pressure will raise the spring bar. Please don't ask me how I know this, but if that's the case, disassemble the receiver and reverse the T bar. Jon Barber 1483-V

[paulmarcone]

I got it! I used a thin screwdriver under the top strap and that did the trick. I liberally sprayed the area with Ballistol. The next few times I still needed the screwdriver. By the fourth time, pressure on the t-bar was enough to break open the action.

Any ideas on:

- best size jag (.50 caliber?)

- bullet size (I don't cast my own)

- brass or rubber casing?

- load (FFG or FFFG)

Thanks!

Paul the Wall

[pastore]

I got it! I used a thin screwdriver under the top strap and that did the trick. I liberally sprayed the area with Ballistol. The next few times I still needed the screwdriver. By the fourth time, pressure on the t-bar was enough to break open the action.

Any ideas on:

- best size jag (.50 caliber?)

- bullet size (I don't cast my own)

- brass or rubber casing?

- load (FFG or FFFG)

Thanks!
50 cal jag
.515-.517 bullet
plastic tubes ( no rubber available that I am aware of)
due to variations in chamber size you almost have to have brass tubes made for your particular gun and bullet combination.
25grs FFF +- W/filler



Paul the Wall

[paulmarcone]

Thanks. Are the plastic tubes sold by Dixie Gun Works good (they've received good reviews).

Also, would you recommend a .54 bronze bore brush or a .50? I've read that a .50 bore brush is not large enough to clean the grooves.

Thanks again.

[Ken Hansgen, 11094]

I bought some rubber tubes from an N-SSA member at a recent Nationals, but don't now remember who to contact.

[pastore]

Thanks. Are the plastic tubes sold by Dixie Gun Works good (they've received good reviews).

Also, would you recommend a .54 bronze bore brush or a .50? I've read that a .50 bore brush is not large enough to clean the grooves.

Thanks again.
You can use either a 50 or 54 bronze brush.
All of the plastic tubes are made by the same manufacturer.

[paulmarcone]

I am having a hard time finding bullets for my Pietta Smith Carbine.

One possibility is this bullet from Moyer's Cast Bullets

.512 diameter, 425 grain bullet using the Lyman #515141 mould.

Would this bullet be a good fit for my Smith?

Thanks.

[Lou Lou Lou]

Are you considering casting your own? That would be the way to go.
the .512 rounds seem a tad small. Most folks shoot a true .515 or greater.

[ms3635v]

Hi Paul,

I am shooting an original Smith and have been using a Rapine .520 diameter bullet sized to .518 for the past 20 years. This bullet weighs 350 grains. My carbine shoots best with 28 grains of 3f. I also use the black plastic cases; however, one sutler sells rubber (similar to the original) cases.

Mike Santarelli 3635V
Co. B, 1st PA Cavalry
MA Region

[Tom Magno, 9269V]

Are you considering casting your own? That would be the way to go.
the .512 rounds seem a tad small. Most folks shoot a true .515 or greater.

The repro (Pietta) Smiths are a true .50 cal. Mine slugged groove to groove at .508, and the smallest I could size my bullet from a 518145 mould was .510 without total loss of grease grooves. The originals are larger, .513-520 or thereabouts, which is why most shoot a .515-ish slug. Best to slug your barrel before committing to a bullet size. If yours is .508-.510, the .512 will shoot just fine - the only problem being that they may be a very loose fit in the casing.