Lymen molds and bottom pins

[slimjim]

Hello: I have questions on this bottom pin for a lymen mold I acquired it and I'm not familiar with them don't know what cal it goes to or if they are non selective on cal Im looking at 58 cal. The length from the snap spring to the tip point is.875 and the dieameter of base above snap is.545. I would appreciate any information given here on these molds and the bottom pins. I have a 1864 58 cal Springfield and also like to know if lymen hollow base would be a better choice than the round ball. Would like to try it deer hunting this fall.
Response can be on the thread or PM or email if you choose
Jimshiriki@hotmail.com your choice
Thankyou
Jim.

[mike davenport]

Your picture shows a standard base pin or base plug for a hollow base "Minie" ball mold.
These are similar to the lead slugs that were used in the 1860's in martial arms.
What type of arm are you trying to set up? Minie balls need to be molded out of dead soft lead and manufactured to fit the barrel within 1 or 2 K in size and lubed with a soft lube to help keep black powder fouling soft and easy to wipe out.
its not complicated but there is a delicate balance in the size and fit.
reach out and we can discuss
Mike Davenport

[slimjim]

Thanks Mike. I have a acquired a 1864 58 caliber springfield and thought I would try a hollow base in it.Im not to sure on how to get a more accurate bore diameter due to no exit too plug it I have some expansion pin calibers but they didn't impress me much on the results. So I'm kind of shooting in the dark on bore size. Would this plug work in a 58 cal lymen mold do you think? Is it just the cut of the tampered pt that's differant or what's the difference?
Thanks jim

[Carolina Reb]

If your Springfield is original it won't shoot round balls very well. The rifling grooves are cut with decreasing depth from breech to muzzle, nominally 0.015 inches at the breech down to 0.005 at the muzzle. Most reproductions don't have that feature and you can shoot roundballs in them, but the 3 groove rifling isn't the best set up. That Lyman mold is what you want. Like Mike said, the lead needs to be pure and dead soft. Lead flashing and plumbers lead works well. You should be able to squeeze the base of your bullets out of round with your fingers. Another tip, use real black powder, 2F or 3F. The substitutes won't expand hollow base bullets properly. You can make a good bullet lube from beeswax melted together with a little olive oil. A cupcake cup of wax with two or three tablespoons of oil is a good place to start. More oil will keep the lube soft when it's cold out.

Search through this BB for loading information. You will find a lot.

[slimjim]

Thanks Carolina:The springfield I have is the old original fire arm. I was interested in the statement on the bore rifling decreasing I have been a little nervous on putting any thing snug fitting bullet in the barrel for fear I wouldn't be able to extrack it.I have my eye on a lymen mold 575-213 I think the number is. Would this base extra plug work in that 58 cal mold also? I have tried round ball and your right accuracy is very depressing to say the leased.
Thanks
Jim

[Lou Lou Lou]

Forgive the interruption. For best results the minie needs to be one thousandths underbore size. .575 doesn?t work in all guns. Either buy pin gauges or find a machine shop to accurately measure your bore size

[Carolina Reb]

There are two Lyman 575-213 molds. The "Old Style" is a copy of the 1855 Harpers Ferry bullet. The "New Style" was developed by N-SSA shooters back in the 1950s. It is more a copy of the heavier armory made bullets actually used during the war. Unfortunately, the mold base pins will not interchange.

[slimjim]

Hello: the mold I'm looking at is the n-ssa one nothing said on early. But by looking at the pin I'm showing do you think it will fit the later model? Or can't you tell by pics? I ended up with the plug because I lost out on a 575-213 mold but ended up with this plug. So I'm trying to find out what it fits. May be a 54 or? I have no clue. Any help is appreciated
Thanks Jim

[John Bly]

It is for a Lyman mold for sure. I think it may be for a 575494, the 315 grain bullet. You may need an oversize mold for that original, possibly a .580 or even larger.

[slimjim]

Well Gentlemen I appreciate the response there was a lot of good information and I thank you. But I think Lou Lou got it right if you want the best accuracy you can get from a antique firearm you must first know what your bore is instead of taking a wild guess at it.
One last question once the bore is determined what and where would I go for a mold for it? Does accurate molds make a design that works and then have one made? What works for you folks?
Thanks
Jim

[Carolina Reb]

McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com) sells pin gauges in musket barrel sizes. Rather than buy a whole set of gauges, it might be worth ordering a 0.579 or 0.580 and see how it fits. You could slip a feeler gauge leaf in beside the pin gauge if the fit it loose. This should get you close enough to order a mold.

Accurate does not make the base pins for hollow base molds. Write him an email and see if he will make you a mold to fit that pin.

Two other alternatives. Order a complete mold from someone like Moose who makes them in a variety of sizes, or order a mold that's a little oversize and a push through sizer to swage bullets down to your bore size. Pure lead bullets are easy to size down by hand. No press required.

[mike davenport]

Do you live close to Winchester VA? or what is your location- i am sure we have skirmishers in or around your area that would or could help you in finding the right size minie. reach out to me and let me know your location.
mike

[bobanderson]

I bought "minus" gauges from Travers Tool. Minus gauges are a half thousandth (.0005") smaller so you can fit them inside whatever you're measuring. A .575 minus gauge should slip into a properly sized musket bore. I actually bought 5 in thousandth increments (.573, .574, .575, .576 and .577) . As I recall, they were about $4 each. I bought them for use in .58, .54, .50 and .69 caliber skirmish arms.

They've been very useful over the years when working up loads and deciding if a gun is a good buy.

Hint - I drop a 6" piece of 1/2" round steel, or a socket extension, in the bore of a muzzleloader to make sure I can get the gauge out if it slips into the bore.

[Lou Lou Lou]

Good tip, thanks

[slimjim]

Good morning all.
Now this is good information here on pin gauges. I'm interested in what Carolina Reb and Bob Anderson said. I checked on Travers tools sight quickly and they have them in 5 thousands increments and still @four bucks. I don't know if they have them in one thousand or not I will call after the Holliday.
Maybe with you folks help I'll get this narrowed down so I can keep them on paper.HA!
Thanks again
Jim.

[Muley Gil]

Here are the ones I bought:


Pin gauges (n-ssa.net) (https://www.n-ssa.net/vbforum/showthread.php/22081-Pin-gauges?highlight=gauges)

[bobanderson]

Good morning all.
Now this is good information here on pin gauges. I'm interested in what Carolina Reb and Bob Anderson said. I checked on Travers tools sight quickly and they have them in 5 thousands increments and still @four bucks. I don't know if they have them in one thousand or not I will call after the Holliday.
Maybe with you folks help I'll get this narrowed down so I can keep them on paper.HA!
Thanks again
Jim.

They are in .0005" increments. Half a thousandth.