Original Sharps heavy trigger pull

[gemmer]

Has anyone tried using a brass shim in the full cock notch to lighten the trigger pull on an original Sharps as done with musket locks? I tried backing off the mainspring ramp screw but it didn't help.

[gemmer]

Read Dave France's article. Question answered.

[Carolina Reb]

That is the best article on lock tuning. It use to be on the NW Terr. web page, but it appears to have been taken down.

Short answer: Yes, you can lighten up the trigger with a shim in the full cock notch. Be careful, if it's too light it will catch on half cock and eventually break the half cock notch. Replacement Sharps/Spencer tumblers are really hard to find these days.

Also, be sure that the sear spring leg of the main spring hits the back of the sear right at the corner where the flat part of the sear leg meets the round pivot section. For some reason people shorten the sear spring thinking this will lighten up the pull, but it does the opposite, in a big way. If this is a problem, you will need to replace the mainspring.

[gemmer]

That is the best article on lock tuning. It use to be on the NW Terr. web page, but it appears to have been taken down.

Short answer: Yes, you can lighten up the trigger with a shim in the full cock notch. Be careful, if it's too light it will catch on half cock and eventually break the half cock notch. Replacement Sharps/Spencer tumblers are really hard to find these days.

Also, be sure that the sear spring leg of the main spring hits the back of the sear right at the corner where the flat part of the sear leg meets the round pivot section. For some reason people shorten the sear spring thinking this will lighten up the pull, but it does the opposite, in a big way. If this is a problem, you will need to replace the mainspring.
Thanks for your reply. I've had success with the shim option on an original 1816, but I wanted to be sure it would apply to a Sharps, I also like the idea of grinding off the bottom ramp of the mainspring and putting a cam profile on the screw head for up and down adjustment. I tried just backing off the screw but it didn't help. Just to be on the safe side I bought a mainspring and screw from Lodgewood in case I mess something up. If they're not needed, perhaps there will be a poor soul out there that needs them.

[ian45662]

I have a sharps with an original lock and parts. I have used a brass shim in it to get the trigger where I want it.

[ohio charlie]

Read Dave France's article. Question answered.

Anybody know where to find said article?

[Kevin Tinny]

Hello:

Thanks to Lou Ruggiero, who gave me a copy when he got me started, I can email you photo's of it.

For the record, it is in The Skirmish Line, May-June 1999, pages 22-27.

Please PM me your email.
I will be happy to do this for others. Smiles.
Kevin Tinny

[ohio charlie]

Received email with instructions. Thanks Charlie

[Kevin Tinny]

Received email with instructions. Thanks Charlie

Hello, Charlie:
Please clarify your post.
Who sent you an email with instructions?
Again:
If you want a copy of the article, please PM me. Thanks.
Kevin Tinny

[Kevin Tinny]

Thanks, Charlie, for the PM indicating John Dam sent you the copy.
Smiles.
Kevin Tinny

[gemmer]

The brass shim method worked. I used Loctite Black Max instead of solder. Points of information if anyone wants to try it. The shim has to be short enough in length so as not to block travel of the stirrup link in the tumbler. Be careful not to get the Black Max or solder in the stirrup link mortice. Anneal the brass.

[Kevin Tinny]

Hello, Gemmer:
Thanks for the report.
Nice that the brass shim and Black Max work.
Can you please share the before and after trigger pull weights?
Thanks.
Kevin Tinny

[gemmer]

Hello, Gemmer:
Thanks for the report.
Nice that the brass shim and Black Max work.
Can you please share the before and after trigger pull weights?
Thanks.
Kevin Tinny

Kevin,

I wish I could but I don't have a gauge. I can only say that for me it's significant and worth the time spent. BTW the shim thickness is around .0016 which I flattened out a bit to get it a bit thinner.

My next task is to work up a load that is easier on the shoulder as this Sharps is a converted .50-70 and full house loads are getting tougher to tolerate. I'm thinking of down loading powder and bullet weights to Spencer .56-50 levels.

[Kevin Tinny]

Helpful stuff, Gemmer:

Esp. nice on the shim thickness.
All the best.
Kevin Tinny

[John Bly]

To anyone tuning locks for a lower trigger pull be careful to not get the trigger release pull weight equal to or less than the sear spring pull weight. Otherwise you run the risk of the sear dropping into the half cock notch on the way down. This can result in a broken sear or a broken half cock notch or both. When the sear releases it must continue to pull away from the tumbler to prevent catching the half cock notch. I know working on sear springs is tricky but many times it is necessary. Some of those original parts are scarce and expensive when you find them.

[gemmer]

To anyone tuning locks for a lower trigger pull be careful to not get the trigger release pull weight equal to or less than the sear spring pull weight. Otherwise you run the risk of the sear dropping into the half cock notch on the way down. This can result in a broken sear or a broken half cock notch or both. When the sear releases it must continue to pull away from the tumbler to prevent catching the half cock notch. I know working on sear springs is tricky but many times it is necessary. Some of those original parts are scarce and expensive when you find them.

That's one of the things that's interesting with the Sharps back action lock. There is no sear spring. The bottom leaf of the main spring rides on the sear.