.69 smoothbore mold avalibility

[threepdr]

I am at the deep south shoot at Brierfield State Park this weekend. Several guys were telling me about having trouble finding a proper mold for their 69 smoothbore. I?m thinking about having a run of Molds made. What is a consensus on the exact caliber they should be made in? I?ve heard 678, 680, and 682.

Any suggestions?


Thanks!

[bobanderson]

What is a consensus on the exact caliber they should be made in? I?ve heard 678, 680, and 682.

Any suggestions?


Thanks!

Consensus in the N-SSA? That's like a law in Congress where everyone votes their approval. Rare, and usually wrong.

This next is hearsay evidence, not gospel but what I've gleaned from my 10 or so years playing this game. Your results may vary.

Caliber is dependent on bore size. Whoever worked this out decided that 12 thousandths (.012") under bore size is best. For original 69 caliber bores, that means .678, which has proven to be an extremely popular caliber.
Because barrel reamers are not cheap, and .690 is not a standard size, barrel liners are made in the nearest fractional equivalent, 11/16" or .687.
For those guns, .675 is a great choice.

Of course, the ball as it drops from the mould can be a few thousandths different based on the hardness of your lead. Hard lead casts larger than pure by 1 to 2 thou or so.

My Elka ball is .672 diameter. Hard cast, rolled between 2 farriers files and gauged by dropping them through a 6" piece of Hoyt liner, measuring .687. I use this ball in an H&P and a 30" Macon conversion, both with Hoyt produced bores.

Thank you for your efforts to support the N-SSA

[John Bly]

Most people are looking for .678" molds. The balls can be enlarged to fit oversize bores by rolling between rasps. Some original barrels are well over .690" diameter and may require a larger ball. Whatever you do it won't make everyone happy. Go for it.

[John.Hayes]

I'll buy one of whatever you come up with. jh

[PapaRob]

Mark,

I will also probably get what ever you come up with. But a suggestion...make it more than a 1 cavity mold if you can.

Rob

[FirinFlatTop]

I have a real oddball bore size on my H&P 1816, .684 is the bore size, so I use a .672 Ball, got it from Moose when he did roundballs.

[Sven205]

Mark,

I will also probably get what ever you come up with. But a suggestion...make it more than a 1 cavity mold if you can.

Rob

I agree with Rob. I cast with a dual cavity aluminum mold from a Russian company, makes quick work of smoothbore balls. It uses a plate that cuts similar to Lee molds and leaves very little sprue.

If Eras Gone comes up with one similar i'd be a buyer, and .678 would be my vote on size.

[PoorJack]

.685 for me.

[Will Ganz]

just ordered mine from these folks:

https://www.ballmoulds.com/product/ball-mould-medium/

[John Westenberger]

Mark, if you get a run made with a sprue cutter in .680, I'd be picking one up immediately. I have a .680 4 gang roundball mould without sprue cutter that works very well, but I'd like it more if it had a sprue cutter.

[Maillemaker]

just ordered mine from these folks:

https://www.ballmoulds.com/product/ball-mould-medium/

Problem is no integral sprue cutter. You'll be sititng down after casting and snipping sprues with that mold. But, at least it's an option for getting balls of the right size today.

Also beware with the ball moulds guys that they say that the dimension you order is the dimension of the cavity you get - not the finished ball that will drop.

Steve

[PapaRob]

Problem is no integral sprue cutter. You'll be sititng down after casting and snipping sprues with that mold. But, at least it's an option for getting balls of the right size today.

Also beware with the ball moulds guys that they say that the dimension you order is the dimension of the cavity you get - not the finished ball that will drop.

Steve

Thats because as they cool they shrink a little right?

I ordered a .680 mold from these guys to give a try.

Martys Arms Round Ball Mold .680" (ballisticproducts.com) (https://www.ballisticproducts.com/Martys-Arms-Round-Ball-Mold-680/productinfo/71401680/)

I have used it once and getting the pour right on it is a bit of trick and man oh man do the handles get hot but it seems to work once you get the hang of it. I haven't mic'd any of the rounds I have made from it yet to see what size they end up being after cooling though.

[John Westenberger]

Thats because as they cool they shrink a little right?

I ordered a .680 mold from these guys to give a try.

Martys Arms Round Ball Mold .680" (ballisticproducts.com) (https://www.ballisticproducts.com/Martys-Arms-Round-Ball-Mold-680/productinfo/71401680/)

I have used it once and getting the pour right on it is a bit of trick and man oh man do the handles get hot but it seems to work once you get the hang of it. I haven't mic'd any of the rounds I have made from it yet to see what size they end up being after cooling though.

I wrote the review of that mould here on the bulletin board a few months ago. If you make longer handles it solves many issues. It solves the handles getting nuclear hot, and it made it easier to hold the mould shut so there is no issue with flashing between the two halves of the mould. A buddy made my handles when he borrowed my mould out of some hardwood of some kind he had laying around. They're about twice the length and work great.

When I mic'd the balls it dropped, each cavity was between .6795 and .6805. Half a thou each direction isn't bad, considering we're working with a big aluminum mould. It does take a little getting used to, since it's so long and oddly shaped, but combine the gang mould and a bottom pour pot and I can crank out all the round I need for a season in about 40 minutes. Then I need to trim the sprues, which is really my only big complaint about it!

[Maillemaker]

Thats because as they cool they shrink a little right?

Yup. Most mold makers try to tell you the size of the finished lead bullet.

Steve

[Roger Hansen]

I have a Lyman .678. I would go for a .680 four gang with sprue cutter.