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rampa_room_artillery
09-13-2008, 08:52 PM
Hey I was just wondering if anyone here has tried using a Schenkl shell, like this 2.25 confederate copy i found out about. if so how well did it work? What did you use for the copper skirt? I just just thinking about different types of shells i might be able to shoot out of my mountain rifle when I get it finished.

Or has any one had any luck with a james shell??

http://www.myhostedpics.com/images/rampa1/2.jpg

rick bryan
3rd va co B
11434

cannonmn
09-14-2008, 07:16 AM
Rick, did you consider trying a lead trash can projectile first? The moulds for them are relatively easy to make if you have access to a lathe, and you can count on them to take to the rifling every time. The only problem I've had is one occasionally blowing through at the nose, which means I didn't make the mould correctly (front wall too thin.)

If your objective it to shoot an original type projectile design, you won't like trash can projectiles. My objective is to hit a target downrange.

rampa_room_artillery
09-14-2008, 10:26 AM
, Yea I will probly end up shooting the lead pellot out of the gun but I just want to see what else is out there and what can be done.

Rick bryan
3rd va co B
11434

threepdr
09-27-2008, 06:39 PM
Rick,

The Schenkel Shell used a paper mache (sic) sabot around the tapered portion of the shell's rear. It had no metal skirt or rotaing band. The Schenkel was a good projo...if moist wet weather did not cause the paper mache sabot to swell and expand so it would not fit down the bore!

It would be an interesting project to see if you could duplicate the paper end of the shell.

Charlie Hahn
01-05-2009, 01:07 PM
I am currently working up a series of test projectles of similar design, and plan on using a captive rifling band to provide sealing and rifling pickup in bore. I believe that it is possible to make this work based on some similar items I have made in the past. From the practile side though, it migh be cost pohibitive, but should still be intersting to do.

As for the paper sabot, I have made these from compressed coarse saw dust and elmers glue. I made matched moulds and compressed the mixture. The would be crushed during firing, and exit as dust at muzzle exit. Not sure it would legal now-a-days, but it worked quite well.

Charlie Hahn

cannonmn
01-05-2009, 01:39 PM
I try to use trash can projectiles for all muzzle-loading rifles. Here's an explanation and a video of what happened yesterday when I didn't put enough planning and machine time into my preparations for the shoot. To summarize, the rounds didn't have enough windage and felt like they were fully seated, but had only hit the rear end of the rifling. Only our last round was fully seated and got engraved like it should have.

http://www.go2gbo.com/forums/index.php/ ... 968.0.html (http://www.go2gbo.com/forums/index.php/topic,160968.0.html)

Charlie Hahn
01-06-2009, 07:57 AM
I am looking at this a different way. The trash can type projectile appears to be a reasonable base round using the expanding gas. The seating you talk about is a variable that can be felt but not measured, so it will always remain an uncontrolled variable. Looking at the type of rounds used and the lead, copper, and paper sabots, and other driving bands used, we are not taking advantage of the set back forces that will take away the need to seat a round to start the sealing and engraving event. I am preparing test rounds to prove this out, and will then look for a practicle cost effective design that should provide a more consistant projectile. More once I shoot.

Charlie