Too Light of a trigger - now what?

[Wrekreation]

I just finished building an 1842 Springfield Smoothbore. The trigger seemed a little light. I bought an electronic meter and the average trigger pull is 1.66 pounds. I bought an original sear spring, installed it (it is thicker than the one I had) and the trigger pull average is 1.67. The lockplate is an original but all the parts SEEM to be European made (new). A friend said I should replace the tumbler. Before I continue a piecemeal replacement/repair program I'd like to hear some other ideas on what I might do.

Thanks

Craig Goheen
49th Va.

[MR. GADGET]

It is very hard to get repop parts to work with original parts. Most will not fit.
With that weight I would bet the angles are off.

[Maillemaker]

With my Armisport 1842, if/when the bridle screws back out my trigger pull gets very light. Same thing happened on my Pedersoli Sharps. I don't know what about this condition makes the sear more likely to trip but anyway it could be something to check.

Steve

[John Bly]

It's obvious that the angles of the sear/tumbler interface are not correct. Remove the sear spring and see if it will lock up with no spring tension. Hold the sear in place with your finger to do this. It should lock in place. If it won't lock up then the angles need some work. I try to get the sear spring tension to be about 2 lbs with the hammer down. The rest of the trigger pull has to come from the lockup of the sear/tumbler interface. If you don't feel comfortable working on it take it to someone who can do this for you.

[Wrekreation]

With my Armisport 1842, if/when the bridle screws back out my trigger pull gets very light. Same thing happened on my Pedersoli Sharps. I don't know what about this condition makes the sear more likely to trip but anyway it could be something to check.

Steve

I checked the bridle screws - seem snug. - Thanks

[MR. GADGET]

Also what lube or grease?

Some of the synthetic lubes and grease can really change the.trigger pull.

[Wrekreation]

It is very hard to get repop parts to work with original parts. Most will not fit.
With that weight I would bet the angles are off.


Thanks - I'll do some more research - or find an expert. 11008 11007

[Wrekreation]

Also what lube or grease?

Some of the synthetic lubes and grease can really change the.trigger pull.

Don't really know what the lube is, but it has always worked.

[Wrekreation]

It's obvious that the angles of the sear/tumbler interface are not correct. Remove the sear spring and see if it will lock up with no spring tension. Hold the sear in place with your finger to do this. It should lock in place. If it won't lock up then the angles need some work. I try to get the sear spring tension to be about 2 lbs with the hammer down. The rest of the trigger pull has to come from the lockup of the sear/tumbler interface. If you don't feel comfortable working on it take it to someone who can do this for you.

I will lock up without the sear spring. I don't even have to hold it with my finger, the weight of the sear engages it without effort.
11009

[MR. GADGET]

I would need to dig mine out but looks like the spring contact on the sear is too close to the rotation point.

[Wrekreation]

I would need to dig mine out but looks like the spring contact on the sear is too close to the rotation point.

1101011011
Here are pictures of the "original" spring on the left or first photo and the reproduction on the right or second photo. The original spring is very close to the rotation point and the reproduction spring is a pinch farther away from the rotation point. There is no significant difference in the trigger pull using a Wheeler digital trigger pull gauge.

[Carolina Reb]

John Bly has the answer. It's not the sear spring but the angle of the sear face where it engages the tumbler.

[Wrekreation]

John Bly has the answer. It's not the sear spring but the angle of the sear face where it engages the tumbler.
11029
If this is the optimal angle (David France article "Modifying Musket & Carbine Locks for NSSA Competition"), I don't see the difference between this any my lock.
11030

[Carolina Reb]

Here's a shot of how the sear angle ought to be. It looks like your tumbler is OK, but the nose of the sear is off. The angle of the face should line up with the angle to the axis of the tumbler pivot (the yellow cross and line). The lock in this picture lets off just over 4 pounds, with the original sear spring. Sorry the picture isn't better, I needed three hands and only have two.

[John Bly]

It looks like the nose of the sear is the wrong angle. It should more closely match the angle of the sear notch on the tumbler. Also check that the sear spring is holding the sear in position. As stated it might be that the nose of the spring is binding and not applying the proper force to the sear.

[Wrekreation]

Here's a shot of how the sear angle ought to be. It looks like your tumbler is OK, but the nose of the sear is off. The angle of the face should line up with the angle to the axis of the tumbler pivot (the yellow cross and line). The lock in this picture lets off just over 4 pounds, with the original sear spring. Sorry the picture isn't better, I needed three hands and only have two.


Thanks for the education and the pictures!!

[Wrekreation]

It looks like the nose of the sear is the wrong angle. It should more closely match the angle of the sear notch on the tumbler. Also check that the sear spring is holding the sear in position. As stated it might be that the nose of the spring is binding and not applying the proper force to the sear.


Thanks for the tips. It seems that the smallest change makes a difference.

[John Bly]

Thanks for the tips. It seems that the smallest change makes a difference.

This is certainly true when tuning trigger pull. Once in a while one comes right in but other times they will drive you nuts trying to get it right.

[Bruce Cobb 1723V]

You can put some magic marker on both of the mating surfaces to see if they have full contact. You will see any drag that way. Sometimes you file it with a slight angle and then you don't get the full contact you needed.

[Wrekreation]

You can put some magic marker on both of the mating surfaces to see if they have full contact. You will see any drag that way. Sometimes you file it with a slight angle and then you don't get the full contact you needed.

I didn't think of that, I have some non-drying prussia blue I could use. Thanks!

[Lou Lou Lou]

Suggest using a fine stone as opposed to a file. FWIW

[Wrekreation]

You can put some magic marker on both of the mating surfaces to see if they have full contact. You will see any drag that way. Sometimes you file it with a slight angle and then you don't get the full contact you needed.
Something is not square.
11067

[Wrekreation]

Suggest using a fine stone as opposed to a file. FWIW

Thanks, I have some fine stones 1000.

[Wrekreation]

I found out you should not try to bend/tune the sear spring (European reproduction).
11074
I've gone through a tedious and repetitive process of inking, firing, disassembly, stoning (1000), assembly, inking, firing, disassembly, stoning, etc, etc, etc.
11075
I find it hard to square the contact point of the sear, and then get the correct angle for the face of the sear.
11076
After several hours today I have made some progress
11077

Still not very consistent but still progress. Next I'll test it on NRA weights.

[Eggman]

Suggest using a fine stone as opposed to a file. FWIW
Not sure if I'm reading this right Lou --- FWIW

[Michael Bodner]

If its measuring about 3lbs 4-5 ounces, STOP!!! You've got a great trigger pull weight!!

Does it have any or too much creep? If so, then that's a different step verses honing the sear face...

Again, STOP! you have a great trigger weight!!

I work the triggers on the whole teams guns BTW

-Boots