100 Yd Maynard

[Eggman]

I have a 50 cal Maynard with issue sights. Front and base rear sight set for dead-on at 50 yds. Other flip sights set for the great beyond. Currently using Smith repro to solve 100 yd conundrum. Would prefer to use Maynard for whole match-------- How are you Maynard folks dealing with the 100 yd range?

[RaiderANV]

switch out the rear leafs for a shooter leaf then sight it in properly Eggs

[Eggman]

Well I should explain the conundrum I created for myself. Farmed out the gun to Booby Hoyt for liner, got it back, gun shoots like a champ with sights all original just as they are -- at 50 yards. Am loath to go unoriginal -- want to be able to shoot 100 in this original configuration. Am in a deep hole.

[Eggman]

And with that found a solution guys. Thanks!

[Muley Gil]

Aim high and pray. :D

[Kevin Tinny]

Hello, Egg:

If I understand, you asked about two issues in your opening post:

Repro, lined Smith with original style sights with good accuracy.
Zeroed at 50, but issue sights cannot also be zeroed at 100 without hold-off.

What do Maynard shooters do for 100?

My orig Smith in mint condition was tested over 570 shots to come up with:
Great 50 and 100 accuracy of 1/3 the tgt/bull diameter.
But --- The issue sights do not allow a 6:00 hold at both 50 and 100.

With a 1,000 fps load, that dropped 8" from 50 to 100, the front post was cut to enable 50 yd zero with staff FLAT using notch in slider, but after determining 6:00 zero for 100, found the front post must be 2" into 4" bull or clay AT 50 yd for center hits

For 100, staff raised and slider all the way down, I use the OTHER notch in slider with top of post even with top of "V" notch, 6:00 tangent to 8" bull for center hits.
So I hold slightly into bull at 50 and 6:00 at 100 for center hits.
I wanted no holding into the bull at 100.

With Maynard 1st Model in either 50 or 35, both w long barrels and tang sights, I use two staffs, one for 50 and the other for 100 for 6:00 holds so I don't have to move the peep in the staff.

Quite capable 1st Model Maynard shooters warned me that the Maynard staff slider peeps "move" and zeroes shift so they use different staffs with peep GLUED/soft soldered in place. I have seen brown epoxy used on one.

The Smith zeroes/drops were confirmed with a scope firmly clamped on the barrel. I found very little group SIZE diff w scope IF very careful with IRON sight picture, but was fun to try that.

Please call me if need more info. I PM'd you my cell number.
Edited for typo's. R/K

All the best,
Kevin

[Eggman]

Very very interesting Kevin. My solution is a little different, somewhere between an adjustable sight like this, and praying (former method).

[Kevin Tinny]

Tx, Egg:

Am wondering...
Are you working on an adjustable rear for a Smith?
Any pictures would be interesting. Tx.
Kevin

[Eggman]

No in my Pietta Smith I use the traditional washer slid under the rear sight ramp and around the mounting screw. Right thickness washer gives right elevation. My Maynard solution is entirely different. Still in construction. Will provide pic when done.

[RaiderANV]

Then just use the bottom of notch as 50 and top of botch at 100

[Eggman]

Good solution -- problem is the front sight "as is" is perfectly aligned for 50 yards at top of notch. Am loath to take a file to that original front sight. My solution is so good it'll probably need a patent.

[Kevin Tinny]

Tx, Egg:

I used washers or sticky leather shims under folded staffs on long range musket sights and at Doc Kaye's suggestion, switched to a small magnetized disk.

But I have to hang a red ribbon on my nose to remenber to pull it when changing distance. Haha.

R/Kevin

[Eggman]

Dang Kevin you keep making posts like this my patent wont be worth pigeon droppings.

[Lou Lou Lou]

Do I understand correctly that buying a replacement "L" rear leaf is a non starter?

[Muley Gil]

Kevin,

Could you define or illustrate what you mean by "folded staffs"? Are you talking about the leaves on the rear sight or the sliding bar or...?

[Kevin Tinny]

Yes, sorry, Gil:

I have asked here twice and not been able to get anyone to tell me how to post photo's on our Forum directly from my Droid cell, so hopefully the following is clear:

My #10574 issue Smith carbine rear sight slider bar has TWO facets with notches on two facets. Only one of the two is visible, depending on the staff''s lowered/raised position.

My term,"folded", means the staff is lowered against the base and is parallel to the barrel with the slider rearmost against the rear end of the folded staff. In this folded/lowered position there is a distinct notch visible whem aiming.

This is my 50 yd sight configuration that requires the top of the post even with the top of the notch AND the post 2" into the clay or centered vs 6:00. I could as Raider/PJ helpfully suggested, put the top of the post a bit lower into the notch. Will try this.

For 100 yds, with staff "raised", the staff is perpendicular to the barrel, like a raised Maynard tang sight staff, and the slider bar is at the bottom of the staff. In this position the shallower"V" notch on the other facet is visible when aiming. This is my 100 yd sight configuration.

Clearly photo's would be simpler here.
R/Kevin

[Muley Gil]

OK, what you are calling the "staff" is the "ladder". I also have a Smith carbine & shoot at 50 yards with the ladder folded forward. At 100 yards, I raise the ladder to vertical and use the second notch.

[Rob FreemanWBR]

Eggs,

Parroting L3 - are you dealing with a M-2 Maynard??

If so, why not remove the orig sight leaves & put them in a SAFE place. Get TWO L shaped rear sights. Drill one for fifty - obtain a group on paper using either 6 o'clock OR center of mass sight picture - your call just be consistent.

Shoot same 50 yd sight at 100 yds to obtain group on paper (100 yd Ind Targets are great - shoot at the top bull!).

Before moving on - you need tight, clearly definitive groups at both distances PERIOD. If needed re-shoot in order to get groups. In addition, this is also the time to make changes to your load, should that be necessary in order for your piece to achieve groups at both distances.

Based on your shot groups (KEEP your targets) from the existing 50 yd peep, refer to the Trig Table to determine the needed/exact placement of 50 & 100 yds peeps to your 2d L shape.

Drill, install, test 2d L shape... Voila

You can drift front or rear sights if needed should you need to tweak windage.

After that your piece should be dead on for both distances - best of all: same piece, same load, cleaning time cut in half, more time to drink beer.

[Eggman]

Even though like all good Iowa boys I qualified expert in basic training on the M-1, I'll repeat, the M-1, I don't like peeps.

[Bruce Cobb 1723V]

Even though like all good Iowa boys I qualified expert in basic training on the M-1, I'll repeat, the M-1, I don't like peeps.
Do what some Marine did, file the top half of the circle / peep off. Then you get a U.

[Eggman]

New 100 yd made. Will maybe post pics --- I'm kind of picture challenged.

[Eggman]

Here tiz with original sight and new 100 yd sight

[Eggman]

I need to mention that my nomination to the Hall of Master Craftsman was rejected.

[Eggman]

Tx, Egg:

I used washers or sticky leather shims under folded staffs on long range musket sights and at Doc Kaye's suggestion, switched to a small magnetized disk.

But I have to hang a red ribbon on my nose to remenber to pull it when changing distance. Haha.

R/Kevin
Red ribbon not shown - still in wife's sewing basket.