Seeking wisdom regards Maynard carbine loads...

[Just Jim]

Hello Gents-

I have a pretty nice looking second model Maynard on the way to me. I've been a bullet caster and handloader since about 1970, so I'm not unfamiliar with load development, but would welcome some experienced input from this group. I'm not a skirmisher, but will be using the Maynard for recreational shooting and hopefully a bit of hunting at my new home in northern Georgia.

A couple of questions please: Is there a mold you've had particularly good success with? I saw an image of a Romano mold and liked the looks of it, but have yet to learn if they are still available. Secondly, while my intention is to use the full capacity brass cases, what accuracy differences have you experienced with the use of the plastic cases? I think it might be nice to have some "disposable" cases.

I might add that I do have a mold which may be suitable - a Lyman .50-70 mold (515139?) I purchased years ago. It's 2,200 miles away at the moment and I'll need to cast a few samples to check the diameter and of course I'll slug the barrel of the Maynard as well. But I'd like to find a mold which will shoot well AND look as period correct as possible.

Thanks in advance for any guidance you might give! Jim...

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48009119606_2bb6048f41_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2g9phDu)IMG_4050A (https://flic.kr/p/2g9phDu) by Jim QRB (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152092274@N07/), on Flickr

(not my photo)

[RaiderANV]

The mold you have will work just fine. Put it on top of 35 grains of 3F Goex and away ya go.

[Just Jim]

Thank you RaiderANV...

Any experience with the plastic cases, or are they not worth bothering with?

Cheers... Jim

[Rob FreemanWBR]

Jim,

If you’re looking for disposable, then by all means go with plastic cases...

However, if you want something that will offer a return on investment, go with BRASS. If maintained, these cases will last you MANY years.

If you’re planning to use your piece for general “plinking” I’d recommend reduced capacity brass. Shooting full capacity, you’ll need to use filler (Cream of Wheat, or Grits) to occupy any open space in the brass not taken up with black powder.

Congrats on your Model 2. They’re SWEET pieces and a lot of fun to shoot. Enjoy!

[Just Jim]

Many thanks, Colonel Rob-

I appreciate the use of reduced loads for breaking clay birds or tiles, but my tendency has always been to recreate the original period loads. In part, because I really enjoy the "experiential archealogical" aspect of doings as period correct as possible. But in this case, I'm also hoping I may have a chance to roll a whitetail with the carbine next year.

I seem to have a fair whitetail, turkey and black bear population on our new acreage. I have no desire to perforate a bruin, but I would not turn down the chance to put some venison on the table!

Thanks again... Jim

[RaiderANV]

I used 35 grains of 3F Goex with the mold you have and it went through both shoulders of a whitetail & out the other side. It stood there for 15-20 seconds then fell over.

[Just Jim]

I used 35 grains of 3F Goex with the mold you have and it went through both shoulders of a whitetail & out the other side. It stood there for 15-20 seconds then fell over.


Can't ask for anything better than that!

[ms3635v]

I am shooting the Moose mould Maynard/Smith bullet in .520" diameter and sized to .518". I also shoot 35 grains of GOEX 3F and for the 36 years I have been shooting my original second model Maynard the powder charge has never changed. The Moose bullet, when loaded into the carbine and the action locks, pushes the bullet into the rifling. My Maynard shoots very tight groups from the bench and it shoots way better than I can shoot it. The bullets weighs around 385 grains.

8269

[Muley Gil]

"
But in this case, I'm also hoping I may have a chance to roll a whitetail with the carbine next year."

Check your game laws. You may have to use it during regular rifle season. Some states get hinky on black powder guns.

[gemmer]

"
But in this case, I'm also hoping I may have a chance to roll a whitetail with the carbine next year."

Check your game laws. You may have to use it during regular rifle season. Some states get hinky on black powder guns.



Interesting point. Here in North Carolina, we have a black powder season. A black powder gun is defined as one that does not used fixed ammunition. Hence my desire to use my Gallagher this year. It's an Erma relined to .50 cal. by Bobby Hoyt. I shoot the Lee Smith/Maynard sized .517 and 30 gr of 3F Swiss with corn meal filler.

[Just Jim]

Again, thanks for the wisdom gents!

I'll start with the old Lyman mold I have, but I really want to try a bullet which is more in the original Maynard form.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48037264051_1d454e3a15_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2gbTx1x)rs=w-600,h-600 (https://flic.kr/p/2gbTx1x) by Jim QRB (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152092274@N07/), on Flickr

I think I have found that in this offering from Accurate Molds.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48037437348_743836b829_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2gbUqwq)52-400M (https://flic.kr/p/2gbUqwq) by Jim QRB (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152092274@N07/), on Flickr

I find it interesting that they will cut two diffrent cavities in one block, so I think I'll order one with a cavity for the second model Maynard, and a diffrent cavity for their copy of the 1873 .35-40 Maynard bullet.

Thanks again... Jim

[Bruce Cobb 1723V]

Jim, Its always about how accurate your load is. Never about how much powder you put behind the bullet. My 58 deer load has been 43 grains 2f forever. Nothing even close to a real Civil War load.