maynard carbine help needed

[wormey]

Need one of you Maynard experts to steer me in the right direction. I`m having trouble with misfires and it appears that the flash from the cap is striking the case just under the flash hole. There is some up and down movement in the barrel when closed. What`s going on. Could the barrel link be in upside down. Which end goes up....the rounded end or the more pointed end?? Thanks for helping out a fat old guy ( but a veteran) Wormey.

[Alan Spencer, 7794V]

I had the same problem with the plastic tubes.. Drilled the hole bigger and since then have not had a problem. Quick simple fix..

Good luck...

[Scott Kurki, 12475]

I am no expert. Personally, I would send the rifle to a good smith and get it all tightened up and aligned so that the holes are coincidental with eachother. This method is not cheap but you would have a nice rifle when all is said and done. Messing with the hole size sounds like it would work but seems like a bandaide instead of a solution.

[RangerFrog]

I'm with Scott on this one. I would not feel good about shooting a Maynard (or any break-open firearm for that matter) that was loose when it was supposed to be locked up. If a Maynard is loose with a round inserted, something is definitely wrong... mine is tight even when empty! Do you have a first model or second? Original or repro? More details are needed to make more meaningful judgements. You may just need to change your link or its position, or it may be something more. If I am following your description of the link, it sounds like what you call the "pointy end" should be up (toward the bottom of the barrel. If your barrel is sufficiently loose, it could be drooping enough to make the flash hole of the cartridge appear high for the flash hole in the breech face.

Froggie

PS Sorry, Alan, but no way I want a bigger flash hole in my brass, that would just lead to faster erosion of the breech face if he campaigns the carbine very much. JMHO, YMMV!

[Charlie Hahn]

I could take a look to see what is not lined up. I have made tooling to check so there is no guessing.

Charlie Hahn
410-208-4736
etb9601@gmail.com

[wormey]

I wasn`t clear.....its an original 2nd model. Thanks for the postings so far. I`m not a skirmisher, just an old guy who likes to shoot old guns.

[John Bly]

There should be no alignment problem on an original gun. If it does not lock up, then either the link screws or link are worn or both. Often the link screws are bent. Correcting the lock up problem should fix the problem. The lever should snap closed even when the gun is empty. You should feel tension on the lever when it still has about 1" or 1 1/4" to go before closing. The screw threads are odd and you will not find screws in a hardware store. Most of the ones sold by Suttlers are soft, do not fit very well and will not last long if you shoot it much.

I make proper fitting heat treated screws that will work and last. If replacing the screws does not correct the fit, the link can be bent slightly. If the holes are egg shaped, you should have a new link. Froggie is correct - the pointy end goes toward the barrel. I have sent screws to guys and that was all that was needed. Having the entire gun to check over is a better solution since you are having misfire problems instead of just looseness. Send me a PM if you are interested in my help. John Bly

[Joe 3rd N C Art 2440V]

One of my team mates has an original 2nd mod Maynard. He uses the black plastic tubes. Sorry thats all I know. After 0nly one to two fireings; the base starts to come off. Any ideas I can relay to him?

[John Holland]

Joe,

Been down that road....Brass is the only way to go. I'm still using the same brass cases I bought used 15 years ago.

JDH
44th NY

[Joe 3rd N C Art 2440V]

Thanks, I'll pass it on. It had me stumped but he has some brass cases.

[RangerFrog]

Wormey, between Charlie and John, you can get your problem fixed right... I have personal experience with both of them and either of them can indeed do what they say and fix your problem. I would definitely advise getting it fixed properly rather than trying a half way fix just to make it go bang. Original pieces are too good to waste with shade tree repairs that ultimately don't take care of the problem. Green

Joe/3rd NC A, I'll say +1 to what JH said... you pay for the brass once and if cared for properly it goes on virtually forever. The plastic is a stop gap answer to a permanent need. :wink: If the brass doesn't solve his problem, I would refer him to John and/or Charlie as mentioned above. That's my story and I'm sticking to it! 8)

Froggie