Smith Anti Cleanout Screw Blaster Modification

[Eggman]

Here's the modification with JB Weld. It's the JB Weld epoxy mix, not their silicone mix. You mix it in the bottle and then insert a dollop down the nipple hole. It's a liquid so what do you do now? Wait for it to firm up some and when it does use your pointy things to shape the flash hole. Also insert your nipple in and out to keep the threads clear. Also use one of Alice's dental picks to clear your flash channel. Once it cures it's like solid steel.
(See updated view below).

[EPPS1919]

You are Kidding aren't you. It doesn't look vary safe to me I don't won't to stand to the right of you on the line


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[Eggman]

Explain please. The entire area to the right of the nipple is sealed.There is now a direct channel from the nipple straight into the flash channel.

[EPPS1919]

Is the screw still in it I was thinking you were filling in the striped out hole for the clean out screw. Sorry my bad


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[Eggman]

Right the screw is still in there like normal. Just built a wall around it.

[RaiderANV]

Actually I have one I filled completely including where the screw WAS and it's been just fine for over 25 years. I use the same High Temp JB but it comes in the two tiny toothpaste looking tube where you squeeze out equal amounts and stir it real good with a toothpick. There is nothing wrong nor unsafe with this manner of repair.

Eggs.....did it work? Kinda looks a lil rough down there

[Eggman]

Yeah works fine. The surfaces get tacky as they cure which is not condusive to a neat smooth finish as you shape it. Plus I ran probes through thirty or forty times. Folks who are actual craftsmen would get a nice smooth finish, but the JB still has kind of a grainy look.

[Tom Magno, 9269V]

This 'modification' has an added benefit. The repro Smith's have a cavernous bolster under the nipple, and in my case, the carbine took several caps before the first round would go off. Once I filled the bolster with JB Weld as you did and 'channeled' the fire to the flash hole, the carbine fired on the first cap every time.

[Eggman]

I use the same High Temp JB but it comes in the two tiny toothpaste looking tube where you squeeze out equal amounts and stir it real good with a toothpick.

Yeah I kind of wondered if this would be a one use deal. I stirred up the batch and packed the cavity - recapped the bottle. I checked in the bottle sometime later and the two ingredients had separated. It does not cure in the sealed bottle so it can be reused.
I test fired with a musket cap. Looked like the after burner of an F4 Phantom coming out of the barrel.

[Eggman]

Here's a view after test fire. Smoothed out sides a bit and blew out last of bubble gum.

[RaiderANV]

I've repaired 40+ Smith's over the decades this way and never a problem or screw coming back out. And Tom is correct about the deep hole under the nipple on most repro's. The flash bottoms out and the energy sorta comes back towards the nipple. When you fill it and work it with a dremil and dental bits to make a slight ramp or channel directing the flash right into the flash hole you'll never have a misfire again. You could probably light yer charcoal grill with it.
Whatcha thinks Eggs???

[Eggman]

Funny you should say that as I did light my grill with it last night. The gun has taken on a whole new character. Maybe the N-SSA needs to come up with a new rule.
I officially declare it the Kelly Modification.

[Kevin Tinny]

Hello:

Very helpful stuff.

Am curious, TJ and anyone else, if a lead shim might serve as well or better?

Have a musket with high-grade breech, but slightly deeper than normal nipple hole. Close examination during my first cleaning revealed not a carbon accumulation, but instead that the builder had put a thin, but gap filling lead shim in it.
It has lasted a long time during his personal and now my use.

Just wondering, please. Perhaps the lead shim was the pre-JB method.
Thanks.

Kevin Tinny

[CAGerringer]

I've repaired 40+ Smith's over the decades this way and never a problem or screw coming back out. And Tom is correct about the deep hole under the nipple on most repro's. The flash bottoms out and the energy sorta comes back towards the nipple. When you fill it and work it with a dremil and dental bits to make a slight ramp or channel directing the flash right into the flash hole you'll never have a misfire again. You could probably light yer charcoal grill with it.
Whatcha thinks Eggs???

PJ,
Can you use regular JB Weld, or does it have to be the "High Temp" version?
Charlie Gerringer
Old Dominion Dragoons

[Bruce Cobb 1723V]

The original Smiths use a nipple where the base is rounded, not flat. It mates into a mating rounded area at the bottom of the hole to make less of a gap between the flash hole and the nipple. Filling this gap, when using a flat ended nipple does make sense. Just saying.

[RaiderANV]

I have only ever done this to REPRO Smiths. I have never found a need on originals. I have anyways used the High Temp JB just because if I'm going to do it I'm using ht best JB available. Regular might work? Why risk it the stuff is purdy cheap.

Never seen or heard of the lead shim deal but I reckon it'll work. I prefer solid material in place that won't move.