WTB second model Maynard lever screw

[Harry Gaul]

Looking for a second model Maynard Carbine lever screw. Carbine is original and original part would be nice. Checked usual sutlers like S and S and lodgewood. Catalog indicated that they were out of stock.

Harry
3rd US
03626v

[Kevin Tinny]

Hello, Harry:

Might try Bruce Cobb. He found "unobtanium" original parts for me.

Regards,

Kevin Tinny

[John Bly]

Are you looking for the screw that attaches the lever to the frame or one that attaches the connecting link to the lever. I can help with the latter.

[Harry Gaul]

John,

Thanks for responding. I need a screw that goes into the lever and the lever now the lever can pivot down and up. I took out this screw and put it in the barrel pivot and it fits. In reality I need a barrel pivot screw. I think that both screws are the same. I am attempting to take up the slack between the barrel and the breech for a more consistent seal.

Sorry for the confusion. Pictures can be taken and sent if that helps.

Harry
3rd US
03626v

[John Bly]

The lever axis screw is not the same size as the barrel pivot screw. The hammer screw and barrel pivot screw are the same. The barrel pivot screw has very little to do with getting a tight lockup. Have you got a headspace problem? Is there too much space between the cartridge and the breech face or is it just not locking up tight. As you close the lever on an empty gun you should start feeling some tension with the lever about 1 1/4" from closing. It should then snap shut smartly. The biggest culprit in this not happening is worn screws in the barrel/lever linkage. New screws will quite often fix this but not always. The ones sold by most sutlers are soft steel with a poor fit and just will not last but a short time. I need more info to analyze your problem.

[Harry Gaul]

John and any other who wish to contribute.

My Maynard was inconsistent and I feel that headspacing is the problem. Reviewing past posts on Maynard, I decided to try to fix the problem. I removed a screw which I call the barrel lug screw. It is a poorly made replacement and very hard. I could not put the screw back in place after I determined that I was out of my league and posted for help. John responded but I need to post pictures to determine the cause of my headspace problem. It appears that the hole in the barrel lug is slightly oblong. I do not know if that is correct or worned and need repaired.

Here are some pictures. John and others with constructive comments are welcome to chime in and learn.

https://imgur.com/heOoOMl

https://imgur.com/SpjVNy4

https://imgur.com/BHHdsob

https://imgur.com/SfJYCiQ

thanks to all,
True Blue and Diamond Hard,
Harry Gaul
3rd US
03626

[John Bly]

The hole in the front is supposed to be oblong. This allows the barrel to lockup on the lugs and frame at the rear of the barrel. 1st mods and sporting models are slotted all the way out the back so take down can be done quickly without removing any screws. Your screw appears to be the problem. It is a poorly made replacement and it looks bent.

Headspace is the distance between the standing breech and the end of the barrel. It should be about .031". You can measure it with feeler gages. The front screw has absolutely nothing to do with headspace. Without feeler gages you can check clearance with paper and a cartridge if you know the thickness of the cartridge. Standard white paper is generally .003" thick. Brown paper bags are .005" thick. N-SSA targets are .005" thick. Place the paper between the cartridge and the breech face when you close the action. If you can pull out the .005" thick paper easily you probably have excess headspace.

I can make you a new screw that is the correct diameter of alloy steel with proper fitting threads and properly heat treated and send it to you. I'll PM you a price. We'll see if that solves the problem and take it from there.

[Bruce Cobb 1723V]

Harry, 3rd picture shows a very bent screw. Never seen one so bad.