Musket Stock Finish

[Yancey von Yeast, 8073]

Can anyone shed any light on how original Civil War or Early US musket stocks were finished? Many of the original specs simply state "oil finished." From the originals that I have examined, (those with what appears to be old and original finish) it appears to me to be an early version of some type of resinous varnish. Can anyone help me out?

Thanks in advance!

[Mike w/ 34th]

Enfield stocks were dipped in Boiled Linseed Oil and hung to dry, according to the sources I've read.

[Jim Mayo]

Varnishing a stock and sometimes the whole weapon was a popular way to preserve them in the early 1900s. Stocks were originally finished by using linseed oil.

[Southron Sr.]

The U.S. Armory method: The stocks were sanded then dipped into boiling linseed oil and then hung up to dry. When the stock finish was dry, the metal parts would be installed to assemble the arm.

[pastore]

So the question is... "BOILING linseed oil" or "BOILED linseed oil" ?

[Walt Magee]

Raw linseed oil never really dries; it must be (and I'm sure it is) boiled linseed oil.

[Terry Davis 10639]

get boiled linseed oil on too thick and it doesn't dry well either.

Culvers shooting page has a great segment on stock finishing and how to get a military finish.

http://www.jouster.com/

Except I can't find it on there at the moment

[Frog]

Multiple applications of 1/2 unit boiled linseed oil, 1/2 unit of mineral spirits allowing it to dry between coats works very well. The mineral spirits help the drying and keeps from applying too much at one time.

[Yancey von Yeast, 8073]

I have read many of the sources that talk about linseed oil as well. I have tried that and was not able to come up with much of a finish. A chemist that I know has always said that boiled linseed oil never really dries. When I have used it, cut with spirits or un cut, it never produces much of a finish. But, maybe that is how they were finished and the coats of oil combined with a hundred plus years of grime and wear from use and handling has given us the finish we see today.

A friend who is a painter, suggested that maybe japan drier was added to the linseed oil during the period.

[Terry Davis 10639]

Not that I have done a lot of stocks, but I usually pick a stain to obtain the color I want. I tried just BLO as a water proofer after staining on my first stock. A buddy who is a wood worker suggested many, many coats. I did 4 and the first skirmish it rained, it raised the grain pretty bad. Some just use the oil for a finish without the stain.

After that, I found a formula on culvers shooting page for about 1/3 bees wax, 1/3 turpintine, and 1/3 BOL. I had to adjust the porportions a bit, but you should end up with a paste like substance. I put a about 3 coats of this on my next stock, hand rub it in letting the heat from my hands melt it. I then let it sit for a while then buffing it off between coats, and it was much more waterproof right from the begining.

[GPM]

"Linspeed Oil" sold by Brownells, is linseed oil with a dryer added. It works well, IF, it is applied very THIN. It must be rubbed into the stock completely by hand as you go, making sure no excess is left standing. It dries much quicker and can leave shiny streaking and thick spots if not. If carefully applied in coats a finish with a slight shine can be obtained. I don't recommend it unless you are very patient.
I think the classic "sheen" we see on original stocks is the result of age. It's nearly impossible to duplicate on new work.

[Southron Sr.]

Whenever I purchase a new repro musket here is what I do:

1. Glass Bed the Stock.

2. Tune the lock to a 3 to 3.5 lb trigger pull.

3. Strip the stock.

4. Sand the stock a bit with a fine grit sandpaper to "smooth" it up.

5. Stain it.

6. Apply several coats of Linspeed Oil.

The beauty of using Linspeed Oil is that it not only seals the stock but by following the instructions on the bottle with several coats you can come out with a beautiful finish.

Then a few years later after your musket has survived many, many Skirmishes (some in rain and mud,) hunting trips in rugged territory, etc., and your stock begins looking tacky, the stock can be cleaned, the top coat of the finish rubbed down a bit with fine, oil free, steel wool and several more coats of Linspeed Oil applied to give your stock that beautiful "like new" look.

[clowdis]

A concoction used by Purdey in London for many many years was something called Slacum.
BLO - 16oz
Turpentine - 2oz
Venice turpentine - 2tsp
Carnuba wax - 200 grs

Simmer/mix 10 min (+/-) until the wax is melted and the liquid clears.

I don't know where you can find the Venice Turpentine but try artist supply houses in your area. No finer finish to the eye but polyurethane is more water repellant. Choices!!!!

[R. McAuley 3014V]

So the question is... "BOILING linseed oil" or "BOILED linseed oil" ?
It is my understanding that the red color inherent of old military rifle stocks is caused by the oxidation of the raw linseed oil coating over time, and that “boiled linseed oil” is not in fact boiled, as some boiled oils change their drying characteristics, with linseed oil, this is mainly achieved by the addition of other solvents as well as certain heavy metal additives that cause it to dry more quickly, ergo, acting "as if it was boiled.”

[W.Huffman 5thva]

Gentleman, If you would like another suggestion try using Tung oil. It is a labor intensive process but I believe it is well worth the time and effort to do it. It takes a minimum of 12 to 15 hand rubbed coats plus a rub down with 0000 steelwool between each coat and depending on room tempature and humidity this process will take a minimum of 3 to 4 weeks to accomplish :D

[clowdis]

Oh yeah, one other recipe, boiled linseed oil and beeswax. Add just enough beeswax to make the oil stiff, almost like lube. Heat the mixture on the stove or hot plate when ready to apply and rub vigorously into the wood. A hair dryer will help the wood to absorb the oil. Actually pretty waterproof too.

[bilge water bob]

Oil will never boil, cook, yes, and then get reeeeeeally hot and burst into flames.