How to move front sight?

[Tom]

It requires patience but through the years I have learned to do a lot of things on my musket.

I need to move the front sight on my rifle musket about 2 hairs. It would make a difference. It is a dove tail front sight. Can I use a propane torch? Once I read the need to be careful about getting the area too hot. How do I know it is not too hot?

Any information would be great appreciated. Thanks in advance for any help.

[ms3635v]

If the front sight is attached using soft solder it shouldn't require a lot of heat and remember to keep to the flame moving side to side. You should then be able to tap the sight. If it's silver soldered on it will require more heat. I personally do not like to use silver solder, I use soft solder or Loctite Black Max epoxy to hold the sight in place. Just some thoughts.

[Lou Lou Lou]

If it is dovetailed. Why do you believe it is also soldered?

[Tom]

I have listened to some other skirmish shooters discuss adjusting their front sights and they mentioned their front sights being soldered and using a propane torch.

I have a Hoyt barrel and the front sight is dove tailed. I've never done this before and would like to learn how. Thanks.

[Tom Magno, 9269V]

I have listened to some other skirmish shooters discuss adjusting their front sights and they mentioned their front sights being soldered and using a propane torch.

I have a Hoyt barrel and the front sight is dove tailed. I've never done this before and would like to learn how. Thanks.

It's likely not a dovetail. It's more likely a flat that has been filed into the barrel for the sight base to be soldered to. That's how Hoyt (and others) install them.
Like others have suggested, use a propane torch, keep the flame tip moving. Put very slight side pressure on the sight as you heat and it will move once solder has melted/flowed. To much "push" and it will jump off of the barrel once solder has melted (ask me how I know!). Best to make a mark on the sight and the barrel with a pencil before you begin to register where the sight is currently, and then you'll know how far you move it.
Good luck and let us know how you make out.

[John Holland]

I would strongly suggest that everyone read the N-SSA's Rules regarding front sights for long arms.

[jonk]

Let's step back from this for a moment.

First, you need to determine if the front sight is dovetailed or not. You say it is. I haven't seen many muskets where such was the case. Carbines, yes. Revolvers, yes.

If it is dovetailed, the first thing to do is simply to make a few marks where things are now, and lightly tap it with a punch and see if it moves. Maybe it is soldered in place, maybe not. If it is, then you have excellent advice; I'd only add that heating the barrel won't hurt it in the least. It's soft steel. It isn't heat tempered. It may mess up the finish though, if blued or browned. Or it may impart some color if in the white.

If not dovetailed, then it is a bit more challenging task, as when you heat it up, it is very hard to move it just a hair or two. It will want to float around a lot. You may also mess up the bond the solder has with the barrel.

Honestly, I find the rear sights easier to play with. If you have a flip peep sight, just buy another for a few bucks. There are jigs that let you locate your drill position with great accuracy. You can buy or borrow one, or leave the gun with a smith to do the work. If a v notch original style, you can braze the V over, and refile where you like (or have it done) with a diamond triangle file.

I'd second John's warning. There are rules to consider in this. They aren't hard to follow, but are worth reading. Especially as regards dovetails. The long and short of it being: unless the arm originally had a moveable dovetail as part of it's design, the dovetail has to be fixed in place when all is done.

[bobanderson]

The math to move a front sight is the same as a rear. Sight radius divided by distance to the target in inches equals 1" in correction.

I made a fixture that allows me to move the front sight in increments of as little as .0025" to get your windage dead on. It was easier and cheaper than buying an expensive leaf sight drilling fixture. I've used it on 3 or 4 muskets and it works great.

Even the flats milled on a musket to mount a front sight may have a very shallow angle dovetail, and then are very often soldered in place. (I forget the exact degrees the dovetail is made with, but I have a cutter that works.)

[Lou Lou Lou]

It is easier and legal to adjust the rear sight.

[Bruce Cobb 1723V]

If you bought the barrel with sights on it from Bobby why not call him?